ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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https://www.youmagine.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search_objects%5B%5D=designs&search=feeder
Zoals blizz al aangaf gaat dit het beste met een feeder dit je kunt openen (zie link hierboven voor meerdere versies, die van |robert| wordt het meest gebruikt. Tijdens de pauze open je de feeder en trek je het fillament gewoon uit je printer, en je duwt er met de hand een andere kleur in, ik duw altijd even door tot de nieuwe kleur uit de nozzle komt, niet vergeten de feeder weer dicht te klikken en je kunt weer verder, ken het menu niet uit m'n hoofd maar zal wel iets van 'resume' heten denk ik.
In theorie gaat dit ook met de fabrieks feeder, heb het zelf nooit getest maar met recente firmware schijnt de power van de feeder motor af te gaan, maar de kans is zeer groot dat je tijdens de wissel plastik draden trekt die dan in je feeder en/of bowden tube achter blijven, met mogelijke verstopping en under extrusion tot gevolg.
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If you need a water tight bottom also use flow .. f.e set the wall to 1mm, and flow to 130% you'll get a 1.3mm wall, but the printer will print the bottom 1mm lines appart with 130% extrusion.
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That's great tommy! Mine was not so successful I printed one of those cool spiral vases. My parents put water in with a flower and started leaking immediately... Glad to hear yours was water tight enough for a tree!
The trick to get a spiralized vase water tight is to overextrude using your flow settings.
F.e. you want to print a vase, using a 0.8 nozzle, with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm, you dont put a wall of 1.2 in Cura, but put a wall of f.e 1 mm + flow of 1.2 mm, that way the lines printing the bottom are 1 mm appart and not 1.2.
The other way is to seal the inside with PVC glue ....
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and please make the functionality work on a smartphone, stuff like directly adding a photo from smartphone would be practical.
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ik zit niet op 3d hubs ... maar ben nu wel nieuwsgierig geworden ... foto ?
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Indeed, so if you set a 1mm wall in Cura, you can use the flow to get the actual wall thicknes (120% = 1.2 mm)
Using a 0.6 nozzle you can get to +/- 1.2 mm (and maybe more but I got a leaking head), 0.8 nozzle can go a lot thicker, also depending on the "shoulder width" of the nozzle (how much metal you have around the extruding hole).
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was playing around testing spiralize with a 0.8 nozzle, in colorfabb XT. got a bit out of hand so I thought I share the results.. picture name = line in the settings table. This was not a very well thought out test from the start, so the settings variation may not always seem to logical :mrgreen:
some, not always surprising conclusions ...
- I like the "looks" of XT when slower and cooler printing better than hotter with a lot of fan.
- print cooler when using a bigger nozzle
- you need lots of fan while printing overhangs, the VENKEL version (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2) really provides a lot more cooling than the default UM2.
- to my surprise most of the overheating issues took place at the left/front with the default UM2 fan settup, I was expecting the right side to be more problematic (also based on the results of default UM robot printing).
- 0.2 layers seem much better than 0.1, using a 0.8 nozzle.
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Probably most people here use 2.85 but i assume colorfabb uses the same spool for both? Not at home atm but can measure tonight if no one else reacts earlier.
Other question. Does anybody know if you get a spool now when you order at faberdashery? And if yes what size they have?
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the stuf seems to be liked here so i'll give it a first try...
Faberdashery shared a link.
Yesterday at 2:17am ·
Make Merry this season with 10% discount on all orders from now until 1st December!
Simply enter the code: MAKE-MERRY at checkout when you place an order on our website www.faberdashery.co.uk
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And it also depends on your nozzle size and layer hight.
I'm doing at lot of XT tests with spizalized and overhang on a 0.8 nozzle atm, will publish the foto's later when I find some time...
But one thing is allready clear, you need to print at much lower temps when your nozzle gets bigger...
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I guess it strongly depends on where in the world you live and long and often power outages occur ... I'm in the Netherlands, we only seldom have a glits of a few minutes ...
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I'm not really sure but some time ago I monitored the energy use of my UM2 and I believe it was around 200 Watt (if needed I can recheck next week, but maybe anybody else also measured it?) ofcourse it will depend on settings, bed temp, roomtemp etc...) when you look at the specs of the devices online you can calculate the amount of printtime you'll get. APC has a watt vs time table on there site.
http://www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=29
basically its douable to get 15 minutes or half an hour or so for a reasonable price, so it will help for short power outages, if you really want to be able to continue for hours it will be a huge investment...
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Did you have a look at 3d systems projet 1200 ? Never seen one in action but these are marketed for dental labs....
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Oh ja, die spin! Daar hadden we plannen voor. Zeker na de conclusie dat alles wat dmv spierkracht voortgedreven word geen vergunning nodig heeft. We zijn nog aan het rekenen welke dieren dus de beste massa / volume vs spierkracht verhouding hebben. Momenteel zitten we te denken aan cavia's.
spin ;
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of zoiets als dit ... ook prima zelf te maken denk ik ...
http://3dprint.com/26207/magic-maker-revo/
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I agree your feeder is probably not the issue, with roberts feeder (I use my own version but basically the same) I can put more pressure than I'll ever need, up to the point fillaments start leaking out at the top of the heater ...
Did you try manualy feeding fillament ? just push it by hand, maybe you should check the PTFE coupler (the white part) above your heaterblock, if this thing is deformed it will cause to much friction.
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and there not in the spareparts webshop ......
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And you can easily rename the machines... so call it "um2 abs" or whatever you need.. I use it for nozzle sizes..
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Ultimaker; is it even legal that they want to bring a closed source upgrade to market? Do you guys accept this from your own reseller?
I'm not going to buy it like this...
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Sander; How does youmagine fit in the picture? Your forum ideas about sharing & collaborating of makers, showing what your proud of etc... could also be integrated in youmagine. Probably good to clearly define a strategy on both. I would love to see youmagine f.e. reach the same technical quality and user friendliness as thingiverse... guess closing this gap will also require substancial resources. .
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Mostert na de maaltijd maar het werkt volgens mij beter om voor verwijderen eerst de nozzle op te warmen. Ben ook door schade en schande wijs geworden... mijn eerste nozzle wissel poging koste me meteen ook een temp sensor al was bij mij alleen de behuizing gebroken en heb ik er voor nood nog mee doorgeprint. Montage tip. Ik heb bij het vervangen een touwtje aan de sensorkabel geknoopt en door het zwarte omhulsel getrokken. Kun je de nieuwe kabel met het touwtje er makkelijk doortrekken.
Ik zou ook gefrustreerd raken van meer dan een week wachten. Voor een stock item zou het imho max 1 a 2 dagen mogen zijn afhankelijk van bestel tijdstip.
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if you use this trick you can even edit the STEP files in DSM;
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2772-spaceclaim/?p=53816
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Hmmm, the page you requested cannot be found....
The download request ends in a non existing webpage ....
edit: you'll get a mail link ..
Do you like graphs? Because I do.
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Cool !!! I love graphs !!!