ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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Hi Sander,
"I am still trying to pinpoint the common resistance"
I’m still trying to figure out what’s the problem you’re trying to solve.
It’s usually a good idea to define and prioritize problems before defining answers. Perhaps when you do this first, and ask the members of this forum what they consider the problems to be solved, you’ll have a better starting point.
For now I hear a lot of “solutions” focused on forum contributors, and less on improving the content of the forum.
“ The aim is more to create more insight in the activities and contribution of the user in the forum and with Ultimaker”
Why ? what’s the point? People don’t look for contributors, they look for answers. A system to rank the quality of an answer could very well be a good thing, but IMHO it should only be used for ranking answers in a search engine, and not be about ranking people. I can’t understand how badges and ranking people can help users get better answers…
Hope you want to share your problem definition...
And about the "different people doing different things" I'm sure this will dig into the same type of resources that could focus on YouMagine ... there's still a big gap to close with thingiverse ....
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- Are the nozzles compatible with UMO / E3D ? whats the tread size ?
- Can you share close up photo's, exploded view drawings ? what parts are you reusing, what parts are new ?
- What will be the price ?
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You can look up parts & UM design files on Github
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/
the pdf for this part shows me the material is EN-AW-6082. Google tells me its alloy;
Alloy 6082 is known as a structural alloy. In plate form, 6082 is the alloy most commonly used for machining. As a relatively new alloy, the higher strength of 6082 has seen it replace 6061 in many applications. The addition of a large amount of manganese controls the grain structure which in turn results in a stronger alloy.
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i know they have an atum in store at makerpoint arnhem, but never seen it in action ...
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can't you just rub it off with a piece of paper/cotton towel? when it's hot of course..... be carefull with your fingers ... it works for me when cleaning PLA ..
edit: and for the pieces on the metal fan duct I would try to scrape it off with a knife ..
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google is your best friend .... tons of info ....
http://www.queenofdiy.com/candle-making/candle-making-101.html
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I do like the idea of a better search engine. With the ability to link to YouMagine it would be nice to be able to select which designs you want to show in your signature, although on the other hand all the pictures in the signatures make the forum look a bit busy.
I really wonder how you want to setup the measurement system behind the rewards.
My experience with corporate KPI's has made me extremely sceptical towards such an idea.
What are the indicators you want to use? quantity of posts? that will only increase the nr. of non relevant post, potentially making it even harder to find relevant information.
quality of post? how can you measure it? do we need to rank each other? that's probably not so good for the admosphere. Just based on nr. of likes? maybe some people are experts but not very funny...
The selection by the starter of the thread might be usefull.
I think it's much more complicated than it looks at first sight, with a big risk of breaking something good ... specially the introduction of rewards can encourage unwanted behavior. I would be in favor of changes that make users find better information faster. I know, I'm being sceptical again … all because of love for this forum ..
Finally a booktip .. reading this book certainly had it's impact on my aversion towards ranking systems ..
http://www.amazon.com/The-Circle-Dave-Eggers/dp/0345807294
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Ah ja dat lijkt me zeker een goed plan....
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Mijn ervaring met Makerpoint fillament is goed (wel alleen op basis van PLA wit). wat bedoel je met testen voor je gaat printen? veel meer dan de diameter meten kan ik me niet bedenken ...
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"I was hoping that I could offer a test series of these to people in this thread before Christmas or so."
sounds good to me ... I have a week off around christmas so plenty of time ... let me know if you need funding for the test series.
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@lennart, why would you print a figurine in XT? think PLA prints easier, its cheaper, and your going to paint it anyhow ..
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Hmmm did you see that zeni working? Never seen one but the location of the fillament looks rather stupid. No way you change it mid print. As for speed. This thing seems to have the feedermotor at the head if i see that correctly... so it must be a lot slower than an um2. May be better at flex.fillaments though.
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Never heared of it but why not. I guess you would need equipment like whats used to print chocolate. Probably the easier way would be to print a negative to cast the candle.
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For some materials the glass needs to cool down more for the print to come loose. Colorfabb xt may need to cool till 20 or colder. If your room temp is too high you can put the glas+print in the fridge...
I once and a while clean the glass with soap and water. Make sure to use plenty of water to remove all soap. And always try to avoid touching the glass.
I do use glue on bronzefill... but never for pla. For small parts i prefer a brim.
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Paar maanden geleden ook al eens een bril ontworpen. Met glazen uit mijn vorige bril. De schroefjes zijn inmiddels kleiner maar die had ik niet t.t.v. de foto.
Colorfabb blue grey, met een frontlaagje van bronzefill (komt niet echt goed uit op de foto).
Voor het ontwerpen met passende glazen foto's gemaakt van de glazen, die vervolgens ingeladen in spaceclaim/DSM zodat je er overheen kunt tekenen voor de goede vorm, paar testprints nodig gehad voor de echt goede maat. Het frame kan aan de zijkant uit elkaar gebogen worden als de schroefjes eruit zijn.
PLA is ook eenvoudig te buigen onder een warme kraan, dus op maat buigen is eenvoudig. Heb'm zelf nooit langer dan een paar uur gedragen, toch niet comfortabel genoeg, maar dat vind ik eigenlijk van alle kunststof brillen, heb toch een voorkeur voor superlichtgewicht fijn metaal.
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Did you check layer view? This would at least have you find out the issue before actual printing.
But I'm not sure there is an issue here. Is it not just that its doing the fill area first and then the infil in the letters?
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Same here. Tried it. Never got it to work. Gave up after an hour or so.
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I guess I feel there's only one mayor problem to solve with the forum, which is that people can't seem to easily find the answer to there questions, resulting in the same questions being asked over and over. If you could find a beter way of grouping and searching, without bringing in (to much) competition and rating it would be perfect IMHO..
But maybe I'm also just to old for "gamification" :mrgreen:
Same goes for the webshop regarding spareparts, if you could find a simple way to better indicate if a component is compatible with UMO / UMO+ / UM2 that would be very helpfull. Maybe just a few simple boxes you can tick while maintaining the shop (tickbox for every printer type) would do it..
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I'd say the best is relative, i'm not an expert on all kinds but for sure whats best depends on what your making.
I never tried cheap chinees stuff, but for example the dutch homebrand from makerpoint seems good to me (only used the white pla). I would say just try some thats easy to get in your area..
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If your determined to keep your spool at the original place at the back i would advice to print Roberts "low friction spool holder".
Ordering of Spare Parts and Support Ticket submitted - no answer at all
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted
I see no problem with the 3 approvals .. if it helps fighting spamm please keep it.