ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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I first checked the printer and had about 1mm play in the right front-back axe. Caused by a loose pully. But this was not it.
You're right it was simply overextrusion. Turning flow to 96% gave a perfect result.
So as i had a good first print with same settings i think it can be the fillament (colorfabb pla).
Anyhow problem solved.
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Think any plastic bag would be ok..
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Ahh so many options... an um original+ for easy nozzle change... or a big delta for extruding clay... if only i could find the time to build one myself...
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Can it be that the red they got was sourced at different suppliers? What would be the current situation around consistent quality & color?
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Je kunt zelf bepalen of je een of twee passes wilt door te spelen met de nozzle size in cura. Je kunt best 1 mm wall printen met een .6 nozzle in 1 pass. Als cura 2 passes maakt kun je b.v. een nozzle van 1mm ingeven terwijl je hardware nozzle maar 0.6 is. Met spiralize heb je per definitie maar 1 pass. Er is natuurlihk wel een grens aan hoever je kunt gaan. Toen ik 1.4 mm probeerde bij een 0.6 nozzle ging het lekken boven het heaterblock (xt op um2)
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not totally true .... spaceclaim can import and modify an STL.
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Ja je kunt een dikkere shell printen, zonder problemen een vaas met 1.5 mm wanddikte met een 0.8 nozzle.
Ik heb de 0.8 tot nu vooral gebruikt voor spiralize vazen, maar ook handig voor snel en grof mechanisch werk.
I zet in cura de nozzle op 0.8 en de shell op 1mm, dan kan ik met de flow ongeveer de wanddikte bepalen, b.v. flow 120% wordt een wanddikte van 1.2 mm.
Wil je een waterdichte bodem dan is het handig de flow hoger te houden dan 100% zodat je overextrusion krijgt in de bodem lijnen, op 100% wordt je bodem niet waterdicht.
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I don't like that one cause you need to take off the fans to remove it (change nozzle to much for that).
The one I used was/is easier in that respect.
do you have a picture of how you mounted this piece of alu ?
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I just use the build in procedure, with the piece of paper, and make sure there is some resistance on pulling the paper. I'm just using 0.3 start layer. Probably to lazy for more precise fiddling
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I was using this fan mount;
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-fan-mount-dual--2
but just placed back the metal original as the printed one deformed at the left side, near the heatblock/nozzle. Basically just melted and sagged down a little, probably about 3mm, but deformed over a width of about 1 cm.
I had printed it in XT.
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Ha ha. The head scan is impossible. At least thats just 1 to 3 "fotos" with the fuel 3d.
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you mention PLA90, never hearded of that before, is the 90 refering to the glass transition temp? can it resist heat better that XT ? can you share your experience with it ? where do you get it ?
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came across this interesting project ... think I'll send in a "link".
http://www.printtopeer.com/sculpture
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Ik hoop dat er documentatie online wordt gezet met tips/tricks zodat ik het zelf kan proberen te doen
Verder was ik benieuwd of jullie ook nog toelichten welke grootte waarvoor handig is/de gevolgen er van.Dremel (kun je vast van iemand lenen als je er geen hebt) en een boortje 0.6 / 0.8 voor 2 euro bij de ijzerhandel (niet bij de praxis, maar bij de pro's die je op de meeste industrie terreinen wel vindt) Boren vanuit de binnenkant van de nozzle, dat centreert je boor automatisch. nozzle in een bankschroef of andere klem vastzetten.
Heb dit weekeinde nog m'n UM2 0.6 opgeboord naar 0.8 en de "schouder" wat groter geschuurd, gaat probleemloos.
Met een 0.6 kon ik tot zo'n 1.2 mm wanddikte komen (spiralize) nu met 0.8 en bredere "schouder" (+/- 1.5mm) heb ik de grens nog niet gevonden, maar 1.5 mm gaat met gemak, met PLA & XT.
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I guess there are also many advantages to 3mm fillament. Just thinking out loud, probably has a better volume/meter tollerance. Flexible fillaments in a tube a difficult,I guess with 1.75 even more so, and when I'm printing spiralized vases on a 0.8 nozzle and even thicker walls, my feeder is moving at high speed, i'm not sure the same volume would be possible with 1.75 filament.
As for the friction in the tube at 2.85. creating a more straight path into the feeder will help a lot, take your fillament of the UM and put it lower than the machine (reelholder on the floor) or use my "rail system".
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die temp sensor heb ik ook wel eens vast gehad, maar dat was redeijk vlot te verhelpen met een waterpomptang en heel zachtjes draaien..
en eerst even opwarmen wil vaak ook helpen .... maar pas op voor je vingers
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ordered myself a fuel 3d (http://fuel-3d.com/), but delivery can still take a while.... I'll share my experience when I have it.
It's good on small objects, but very much depending on the object surface, shiny materials will probably be very hard.
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wellicht is de conclusie dat de gezondheidszorg in europa beter is dan in de US ? en dat er hier relatief veel printers zijn...
is het niet ook de bedoeling voor armere delen van de wereld te printen ?
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hmmm, think that's not the issue then, just tried, 2,6 Kg was enough to push it down (after a half spin help to get it going)
tested by putting a small electronic kitchen scale on the plate and push as far as possible at the back.
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tried it but did not think it was easy at all..... the little parts get stuck in the bowden if they are curved to much... think i used some of the last parts of a roll.... maybe someday I'll try again and straighten the plastic first ...
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If you have a UM2 can you let me know how easy your bed goes down > lift bed, turn off motor, can you push the bed down with little pressure ? will if move by itself after you give a little twist to the z axe ?
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nope, never took it off ....
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and temp stays stable, and can't feel play in the head.
to check some more I printed a 60 cm cilinder spiralize, came out perfect. printed a 11mm cilinder spiralized, came out not so perfect (but better than the cilinder with infill).
getting convinced it's the Z axe causing the poor quality.
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cleaned it with a cloth, and greased it with the green stuff ...... didn't help at all. Also oiled the 2 Z axes.
I notice that when I raise the bed, turn off power and try to push down i can't. Even when manually turning the Z rod it's feels like i need to put on to much force to rotate. I know from other UM2's that the bed will (almost) come down just by it's own weight.
Do i need to clean the Z screw with some dissolvent ? what stuff would be recommended ?
Verder was ik benieuwd of jullie ook nog toelichten welke grootte waarvoor handig is/de gevolgen er van.
Amusing reviews of MB 5th gen, Taz4 & UM2
in Coffee corner
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Agree.. forget about the ranking.. think people here are not in it for the money.. the atmosphere here is great.. please dont spoil that..