[Layers shifting]

Electronics cooling?? There is no active cooling on the electronics of the um2...

[Strength of different filaments]

Hi GR0101 (now your famous we all know you read binary :-P )

 

I Like the simplicity of your setup, I tried a test before which is to much hassle for others to join.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6117-diy-material-testing-machine/

 

Maybe we can standardise your bend/break test so anyone who feels like it can share his/her results here. If you share the test files & cura settings and maybe add a little bulge in the testpart design so we all clamp it at the same point.

 

I like to test at least the following;

 

Ultimaker PLA

colorfabb PLA/PHA

colorfabb XT

colorfabb XT Color

 

Think it would be good to print at a fixed speed, and something like 3 different printing temperatures per material. Maybe min/middle/max advised temperature of the supplier.

 

[Designspark Mechanical can not import stl?]

And depending on the source of the stl you can also kindly ask the designer to supply a step file.... you can always ask.

[Ultimaker 2 never fill well the tops]

When you print 0,2mm layer - 80mm/s, it's 0,2 x 80 x 0.4 (nozzle) = 6.4 mm3/s.

To get an idea how fast this is you can print this test;

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/

 

[Options for printing larger than build volume]

Probably also depends on your quality of post-processing, if thats good you can just focus on minimizing overhang and don't care where the seems are.

When I see stuf like this (pussykrew), I know there's a lot to learn on postprocessing this stuff is also printed in multiple parts.

http://niochnioszki.net/xxx/index.php/sculptures/3dprints/

 

[Glue stick]

For pla & XT i print directly on heated glass, if its small stuff i use a brim.

I do use glue for colorfabb bronzefill, tried a few times but could not get this to stick to clean glass.

[Trick Cura to change print path]

I dont get it. What flat part are you refering to?

 

he's talking about the flat part on the extrusion side of the nozzle, the area around the extrusion hole touching the model being made.

 

[Trick Cura to change print path]

The bottom is not waterproof, the walls are, 1.4mm on a 0.6 nozzle is pushing it to much for this... lines are not 100% matching, but the sides are very good. The bottom leaking is easy solved with a little PVC glue on the inside.

Maybe I'll try sanding my 0.6 nozzle a little to make the "shoulder" a bit wider.. I would also like to experiment more with even bigger nozzle sizes.... but the UM2 is just not very practical for swapping nozzles ....

 

[Flexible shaft - the best of both worlds?]

answer already in the YouMagine comments ...

 

[Flexible shaft - the best of both worlds?]

I Like to give Eriks design a try, what do I need in terms of software changes? what is the HEX file that comes with his files ?

 

[Trick Cura to change print path]

Just did a big vase, 0.6 nozzle (drilled out UM2) cura set to 1.4 nozzle & wall. Spiralise.

Real nice and fast result. Like the 1.4 mm walls in one go very much ! (actual size turned out to be around 1.3)

Started a litlle to hot, but at 205c quality is real nice.

 

[Trick Cura to change print path]

mailed you the file, it's just the simpelest basic shape .... solid from DSM, printed with no top/bottom, 0 infill.

 

[Nozzle block prevention tip]

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two#!design-information

 

[Trick Cura to change print path]

sounds strange to me, don't think its normal for z lift to move the nozzle inwards by 4 mm or so ... I think its a cura issue ??

 

[Trick Cura to change print path]

Ha ha.... include PI and try again ....

[Trick Cura to change print path]

Just tried how far I could take this

Took a solid test file, print at 0 infill, 1 wall, 0.2 layer.

Have a 0.6 nozzle mounted atm. First tried tricking cura into 1.2 mm nozzle & wall (note: if my math is correct 1.2 is 400% more volume than 0.6 ...)

started at 30mm/s, turned up speed to 125% and 150% (>10mm3/s), extrusion is no problem at all, printed at 230c, which is to hot. The actual wall printed is around 1.2 mm, I call it a succes.

Then tried 0.6 nozzle, tricked cura into 1.6 nozzle/wall, 25 mm/s speed. (8mm3/s)

Started at 230 celcius, moved down to 215 c, extrusion was never a problem, lower temp shows better quality.

Actual wall thickness printed was around 1.5 mm (so a bit less than the set 1.6)

 

 

***

not related to this test, but cura created a small bulge at the point of the zseam, does this also at 0.6 nozzle setting, so unrelated to this test. Anybody an idea why ??

 

[Cura berekening printtijd]

Voor mij is de cura tijd best een goede indicatie. Goed genoeg. De tijd op de printer zit er vaak erg naast maar dat maakt me eigenlijk niks uit...

[Post your latest print!]

thats strange.... did you check if the wings completed in cura/layer view ?

 

[What to do with short lengths of filament?]

I use it for nozzle cleaning, using the 'atomic method'

 

[A few tips for getting better prints]

Robert, again a very nice job !!!

 

With some of the current available sources put toghether the needed info is getting more and more complete, it almost reads like a book

 

 

Chapter1 > introduction

 

https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/36/original/Ultimaker_2_User_Manual_V1.08.pdf

 

chapter2 > printing

 

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7467-a-few-tips-for-getting-better-prints/?p=69766

 

chapter3 > troubleshooting

 

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6574-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide/?p=60739

 

chapter4 > maintenance & repair

 

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

 

addendum > alphabetical list of terminology explained

 

TBD

 

With regards to maintenance & repair it could be helpfull to have a few specific guides for stuff like cleaning the nozzle, replacing the teflon part etc...

 

Would it be a good idea to pin a list like above to the "WELCOME" part of this forum ?

 

 

A few remarks on the printing guide;

- could be an idea to explain a bit more on removing the print from the glass (to leave it a bit longer for cooling after the machine tells you the cooling is done)

-why do you (just like the user manual) tell people to use glue?, think you could mention that for many materials you can print perfect on just the clean glass.

 

[newbie question, what is wrong with my settings]

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/

this link has grown to about 40 pages now...., but you'll find all you need in it ... basically the best thing is to print yourself a better feeder ...

 

[Material everywhere around the hot-end]

Ahh.ok i thought you had a leak at the top of the heatingblock....

[Material everywhere around the hot-end]

arghh that seems like a big leak ... any idea what has caused it ?

 

[Post your latest print!]

BaasB > I think it looks fantastic! can you tell us a little more on you paint technique ?

 

[newbie question, what is wrong with my settings]

First print slower... your settings:

Layer 0.25 / speed 100 result in 0.25 x 0.4 × 100 = 10 mm3/s. This is to fast for a decent quality.(0.4 = um2 nozzle size)

Try 0.1 layer and 50 speed...

And always check layer view in cura before printing. Are the walls build in layer view?

and to get a feel for speed, try printing this test;

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/