ultiarjan
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Posts posted by ultiarjan
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TIP;
Vandaag bij Makerpoint (makerpoint.nl) in Arnhem geweest, rol huismerk PLA gekocht om eens te proberen. Het materiaal is vergelijkbaar met dat van Colorfabb (iets zachter dan normaal PLA) en is van Nederlands fabrikaat.
De spoelen waar het op zit zijn van hetzelfde merk als ook gebruikt bij het Ultimaker PLA rood....
Voor zover ik kan beoordelen na 2 prints is het goed spul, en zo'n 10 euro goedkoper dan colorfabb pla... wel een beperktere keus in kleuren ....
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Not an gcode expert... but you can use spiralize from the expert settings in cura to get what you want.... maybe create some using this function .. check first in layer view if its what you want. Then you can also study the generated gcode created by cura..
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Anders >> if you can get a few more produced (or a next version if you do some more testing) I like to try it myself (would pay for it ofcourse) I'm sure more people here like to get one .....
next question for me is how a setup like this compares vs. a full metal E3D ...
is it true a full metal E3D gives more problems with PLA? Getting rid of the teflon would sure help with printing at temperatures required by colorfab XT... does anybody have experience with XT on a full metal E3D ?
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Arhhggg it's to late... reading again... you made your own block... i'm interested...
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Im trying to understand what you did. You put in a e3d. But kept the original teflon part and not an all metal e3d?
Can you share a picture without the metal cover?
Love to hear more of your result...agree the setscrew in the original block is a disaster... and love to be able to switch nozzles easy... did the heater and sensor fit or did you have to drill to size?
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I found a way to also print the bottom waterproof ....
just lower the wallthickness and increase the material flow.
so when printing with a 0.6 nozzle, and walls of 1.4 mm, just set the wall to 1mm and overextrude using material flow.
this test turned out very nice.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/vase-the-wall
nozzle size & wall thickness 1mm, flow 140%
Used UM PLA, speed 30, layer 0.2, temp 215, fan 40%, bed 60 celcius.
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Yes. Very easy when you use a feeder you can open (like robert's, or my version). Just pull out the fillament when pausing and push the new fillament in...
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if your UM2 is just 2 months I would raise a tiked at UM support, I would think they send you a new heater element or have some smart test to check your electronics ....
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And this is probably helpfull:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf
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I would first check the cable connection of the heater cartridge. This is a direct cable without connectors to the electronics board. Take of the cover at the bottom, 2 bolts. Its 2 white cables, you'll see the marking on the board.
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Nice Robert! I need to start designing an uploading, I`m feeling left out lol.
I`m soon to be out of work so maybe i`ll have more time to design .. if I can pay the mortgage that is lol. Any nice 3D printing jobs going
??no idea if they a hiring.... but you can always try ...
http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/paul-croft/1b/94b/b6b
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I don't even bother about the notifications in YouMagine anymore, just leave them in there, to much work deleting them...
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keep in mind you don't want to use PLA for stuff you expose to the sun or other heat, it will deform easily ... I once made a car phone holder out of PLA.... It did not survive the first sunny day ...
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Korneel, I agree with most of your mail, but the sparepart cost of a makerbot are a trilion times higher ....
We should al be very happy that the UM2 is easy to maintain by ourself. I do think UM should indeed be more clear on the skills needed to keep the machine running over time...
I have not tried it myself, and don't plan to but some stuff like the teflon parts are available for cheap on aliexpress.com/ ... I have no idea of the quality .....
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Eta on my fuel3d is at best somewhere in november... but ill share my results when i get it.
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You can also use 1 fibre of a metal anti rust brush from the diy shop.... and some people got acupuncture needles from ebay...
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I like it ! really like the on-board video footage ..
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I like the stats on thingiverse a lot, I also have 1 peak like that...
On functionality youmagine is soooooo far behind.
I also like to look at my statistics in terms of "conversion rate" some stuff gets looked at a lot, other stuff is downloaded relatively more... not that I ever do anything with it, just make stuff for myself ...
Which of your designs was featured?
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I would not mind "radical solutions" for my UM2 .... prefferably make the dual nozzles easy swappable ... I'll be happy to get rid of the block/nozzle combi.
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Colorfabb PLA/PHA is good, I use it a lot.
And you might want to try the colorfabb XT as an alternative for ABS (also better heat resistant).
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BEND MEASUREMENTS (zoom in on diagram picture - the center picture with the checkerboard pattern under the part) should be made with the red line in diagram over the edge of a table or counter (use sharp edge table) and the blue arrow indicates where to measure vertical deflection
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maybe I'm stupid ... but I don't see the pic with red line / blue arrow ....
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ik maak het glas gewoon eens per paar weken schoon met warm water en zeep, wel zeer goed afspoelen en drogen... gebruik voor PLA en XT geen lijm, wel voor Bronzefill.
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For indication I just measure the lenght of the compressed spring.
I agree with the need for quick change, and on top an open design for easy cleaning is very handy (but maybe commercially not possible due to CE / Safety...)
When I designed this one
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/and-another-um2-feeder-design
I also started with a small piece of tube at the bottom like you did, but decided to replace it by a hole with just a big opening at the bottom for less friction.. Using this feeder up to now without any problems, still happy with it..
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??
Trick Cura to change print path
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Tried the same trick with colorfabb XT, at 250 celcius... disaster, the 140% flow was to much.... caused a big leak at the top of the heaterblock... took at least and hour to clean (burner) and rebuild. Think with XT a much higher temp is needed to get a waterproof bottom using a high flowrate.
Tried later with homebrand (10 euro less vs UM/Colorfabb) PLA from "makerpoint.nl", worked perfect again. nice waterproof. This cheaper material is from a dutch producer and a bit softer than regular PLA, just like the colorfabb stuff.