fbrc8-erin
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3D Prints
Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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If you try to view the camera in Cura or on your web browser on the computer is it visible?
Is your phone on the same wifi network as the printer?
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Where are you located? Is your printer outside it's 1 year warranty?
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Glad to help!
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Can we get a photo of the front of your bed at eye level? If the heated plate is taller than the lip of at the front center of the base plate, your bed is too high.
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I've got a video for reseating the blocks/printhead shafts: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168803-Reseating-Your-Sliding-Blocks
When you reseat them, make sure the Y printhead shaft that runs front to back isn't sticking out beyond the back of the rear sliding block (it will stick out the front; that's fine). The X printhead shaft (that triggers the Y-stop) should be seated far enough to the left that it fully triggers the endstop, but not so far to the left that it scrapes the left panel; I like to leave about a fingernail's width.
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The other thing to check might be to try pressing the 2 pieces of the Olimex board together; it's rare, but possible the two pieces could have separated a little.
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Hi, Eric,
I've only seen this a couple of times; your case is unusual because normally if I see a power cycle like this it's right at the start of the print. Does the same thing also happen if you manually heat both Cores and the bed without the motors moving?
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Can I get a picture of your bed at eye level from the front?
If the heated plate is too high, the Print Core will get pushed inside the print head which sounds like what you're seeing. The bed height should look about like this. If you've got a gap between the heated plate and the lip at the front, it's going to do what you're describing.
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Try the recovery.img as listed. Is the printer stuck on the Ultimaker logo screen?
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Looks fantastic!
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Oj00 are you running the most up to date firmware? If not, update it. There's also now a video guide for reseating the print head cable, though you may want to check with your reseller before disassembling anything:
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I added a video here on how to reseat the cable, but I recommend checking with your reseller before disassembling anything: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004169003-Reseating-the-Printhead-Cable-Ultimaker-3-Series-
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I can definitely see where it could use a little more light for the dolphins, but over all, that looks really impressive.
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2 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
This is a print that will take 195 hours to print. I have it printing now and will let it print while I am away for a week. I had printed a version of it before, but it was not 'right' for what I wanted to do with it. The dolphins are printed separately and will be reflective, probably done with Bare Metal Foil. The whole structure nearly fills the print bay.
The bulk of the structure is hollow with thin walls and will be lit from the inside with LEDs and fibre optics and side casting Fibre optics. Sure hope the print does ok.......
That looks like that is going to be intensely cool. Are you going to put the printer on a batter back up before you go?
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Depending on where and how it's broken in the feeder, you might need to disassemble the feeder to get it out. There are instructions here: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003853603-Reassembling-the-Ultimaker-2-Ultimaker-3-Feeder
If you're seeing this happen frequently, here are a couple things to check:
1. Is your front fan running? If you've been running the printer for a long time, you can get hairy strands of filament caught in the front fan that keep it from spinning. That would cause the filament to expand in the Print Core and not extrude, and get ground at the feeder.2. What tension is your feeder set to?
3. Is there ground up debris in your bowden tube from previous failures?
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Hi, @whiteglint, I'm not sure about building a plugin for this, but is this the castle you're talking about? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:862724
If it is, there's a small single scaled version that prints beautifully without supports: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:884536
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2 hours ago, RunTime said:
Had mine delivered yesterday, fails 100% ungracefully. I can hear the z engine trying to crush the printhead and when in front, the plate clearly gets angled by the force.
Not a good start. (I am not new to 3D print, I have been printing for several years and built and modified several printers),
And yes, tried all by instructions/solutions, to no avail. I had to disable the auto leveling to get my first test print.
So I figure from this thread that this is one fancy function to tick of the list of this premium printer as dysfunctional. I will see how it works in other areas, considering a return.
Most often when the nozzle gets pushed inside the printhead during the active leveling (particularly right after arrival), it's because during your manual leveling, the springs got loosened too far. I've got a description, photos, and video here: https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005705806-Why-Isn-t-My-Active-Leveling-Working- Tighten the springs (all of them), and it should be okay.
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Could you include a vide of what's going on? The printer should home and then go to the switching bay to make sure it's got the correct one down.
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It depends on what materials you're printing with. For some, it's on by default. For others, it's optional. I usually keep it off for PLA/PVA most of the time, but PLA/PLA if it's a complicated print, I turn it on.
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I'm not sure where a full menu tree may be available, but here's the difference between "calibrate XY offset" and "Change XY offset."
Calibrate XY Offset runs you through the whole calibration process; it prints with both Cores with no offset, and then you take the sheet and the glass and come up with your numbers and plug them in.Change XY Offset would be useful if for example you found that the numbers you put in previously weren't quite right and you wanted to just go ahead and make a small adjustment to the numbers in one direction or another. Or for example if you ran the calibration print the night before and then shut down the printer without plugging the numbers in, you can go ahead and take your print, match it up, and put the numbers in without having to run it again.
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We just added them this week, so they may not have been visible before.
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The volume of filament you're putting out can be calculated by nozzle width (mm) X layer height (mm) X print speed. There's a certain amount of room for play by increasing temperature (for example with PLA at 230 a well calibrated printer with a .4mm nozzle can get 8-10mm^3/s extruded although I never recommend printing that way). Increasing the PLA temperature up to 230 from the default 200-210 can make it work. That you're printing at full speed with low temperature on the CPE is probably making it struggle.
Because the volume of filament you're trying to extrude matters, Cura does change the infill speeds depending on your layer height (.2 layer height CPE profile has a 60mm/s infill speed, whereas .1 layer height CPE profile has a 70mm/s infill speed), to try to make sure that the total volume isn't too high.
That said, I'd go with what gr5 says. Take the temperature up and/or slow the speed down. Cura defaults to faster speeds for infill, but you can also manually set the speeds and you might be better off setting a constant speed for infill and walls. If you don't see the infill speed setting, click the gear in any of the header menus on the custom side and it will pop up with all the possible settings.
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This is a pretty complicated first layer shape (as shapes go). I would slow down your first layer speed by about half and see if that has any impact.
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Like yellowshark says, slow down your prints. I recommend manually setting the infill and wall speeds to the same speed for everything; if you let it auto set the speed based on the "print speed" setting it will set variable speeds for different things (inner wall/outer wall/infill). Setting a constant speed helps avoid pressure build up.
Ultimaker 3 Android App
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
If you can see the camera on the computer, that at least rules out being a hardware issue. As far as the Android phone app goes...I don't have one, so I'm not sure.