fbrc8-erin
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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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I've got those live on my store https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/lifting-switch-pack-um3-um3x , but since you're in the Netherlands, @Andre64, I'd try reaching out to your reseller again to save yourself on shipping costs. You might also have better luck with another reseller in Europe.
Like @ultiarjan says, any reseller should be able to order them in on request, but most won't have them listed.
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Ah. I hadn't realized you had installed a second extruder. Definitely check with the dual extruder thread. I think if you have to, you could swap two of the cables on the motor, to get it to go in reverse, but not knowing your set up, I'd hesitate on that.
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I'm not sure what you mean. The Ultimaker 2/Ultimaker 2+ only has one feeder, so if you update the firmware for the printer to the right kind (Ultimaker 2+ now), it should run the feeder in the right direction.
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This is a firmware issue.
The Ultimaker 2+ runs the feeder in the opposite direction from the Ultimaker 2, so if you install an extrusion upgrade kit, it's critical to update the firmware to the Ultimaker 2+ firmware.
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That's a bit weird. It could be that the connection on the bed plate has gone out. To make sure I'm not missing any steps:
* When trying to heat, the button rotations are showing on the screen that temperature is being set (even though it's not reaching that temperature)?
* Is it giving you any sort of error message when you try to heat and it fails?
* Is there any sign that your Bed Heater Cable has the insulation caught in the green terminal block on the electronics board?
* Can you confirm that the Heater 2 and Temp 2 connections on the board are all empty?
* How long have you had your printer?
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Remove the filament from the printer and look and see if a bite's been taken out of it.
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Sorry, I haven't logged on in a couple days. 832 sounds way off. Here are the points to measure:
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What material are you printing with?
Fan speed?
Did you turn brim on in build plate adhesion?
From the photos it looks like there may be a couple of different things going on.-
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What resistance do you get at the connection on the heated bed with a multimeter at room temperature?
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If it's not working, then something is wrong. Like @Smithy said, it looks like your printer stopped extruding. If it stopped extruding, because it couldn't exit the nozzle (burnt material, etc), then it would grind at the feeder because the feeder is pushing but there's nowhere for the filament to go.
Can you please elaborate a little more? When you removed the filament from the feeder, what did it look like? Do you have a picture?
Does the filament that's in the bowden tube have teeth marks on it?
If you load fresh filament, does anything extrude?-
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Most cases I've seen with ER18 errors are generally resolvable with a firmware update, and/or reseating the cable once. If you've already reseated the cable and are already running up to date firmware, I would definitely get in touch with your reseller about a cable.
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6 hours ago, robson said:
I´ve bought a lot of stuff from US lately and shipping was usually 36€ with ups or dhl. wich is actually not bad at all. Do you happen to have the following parts or can get them for me?
1. Metal fan shroud horizontal version for UM 2/2+
2. Upper plastic house for the print head
3. Complete pulley kit
4. The support axis tool for removing rod´s. It´s probably 3d printed but not sure..
I have all of those things except for the printed axis tools.
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There's definitely some resellers on the forum; there's probably one on here closer to you than I am. fbrc8 is based out of Tennessee, in the US.
We stock official spares of most parts at fbrc8.com. Even things not listed on the website, we usually still have in stock (like the pulleys). We just usually list the most common parts on the site.
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I've seen soft filament (like TPU) dent if left at rest in the feeder for a couple of days, but you shouldn't be seeing anything like that with PLA. If it was a UM2+ I might think the bowden tube wasn't seated all the way and caused swelling, but the UM3 bowden tubes are almost impossible to seat wrong.
The only other thing I can think of: is your front fan running? -
There shouldn't be anything about the filament the really changes over a couple of days when it's not running. Is it brittle?
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Aww, thanks @CXCimager and @kmanstudios. Always glad to help!
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Nicework, Kman!
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That looks awesome!
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At the end of a print, it should withdraw the filament a little (not leave it all the way in the nozzle), but during the purging for the next print, it should move it forward far enough to start extruding again. If there's no damage to the filament it should just go ahead and work fine on the next print without needing to be unloaded and reloaded.
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What material are you printing with?
What printer are you using?Are you slicing with Cura?
When you remove the filament to unload it, is it damaged near the feeder?
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You could also check the cables at the electronics board end of the printer, if you're comfortable with it.
You'll need to raise the build plate to get to the screws that hold the cover on so you can unscrew it and remove the cover.
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Thanks @chuckmcgee & @kmanstudios for your sweet words!
Chuck,
Since I know you've got a UM3X and the S5, by any chance do the Cores you currently have installed on the S5 have the red rings around them? The red rings won't fit right with the S5 nozzle cover, so if you've swapped the Cores out for your UM3X Cores, the ring could cause an issue.
Is your lifting switch lifting correctly at the start of the print? If not, you may need to run the lifting switch calibration (basically the same process as on your UM3X). If the wrong nozzle is down when you start the active leveling, it will error out.
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Glad you're able to get back to printing!
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Ultimaker 3 part for lifting 2nd core
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Glad your printer is working again!