fbrc8-erin

Did you change it out for the same nozzle again, or did you install an Olsson block? Can you provide any photos if you're still having problems?

Hi, tsharpe, I'm sorry you're having trouble with your printer. fbrc8 is Ultimaker's North American assembly and support partner. If you want to put in a ticket to support@fbrc8.com, we can see what we can do for you. We're available by livechat or phone during business hours, but email or live chat is usually the easiest way for us to troubleshoot an issue so we can exchange photos/videos/instructions. If you'll send an email with the information listed here, it will make it easier for us to figure out the best way to help you.

Well, that looks fun. Is this a UMO+ or a UMO with a heated bed kit? It looks like you probably have a loose pulley on your Y-axis, so the motor is missing steps. Check all of the set screws in your pulleys and on the Y motor itself to make sure they are tight. If you try to home the head, does it move smoothly, or does it struggle? If your XY axes haven't been lubricated recently, you may want to check and make sure they are; the motor can miss steps if it can't move smoothly.

That sounds like progress. Sorry about that. :-) The knurled sleeve is the sleeve around the motor shaft. Early on the knurled sleeve was 12mm long and seated at the edge of the shaft. Later, a 15mm sleeve was used instead so filament didn't slip behind the edge of the sleeve. There was an intermediate period where the 12mm sleeve was recessed 3mm from the end of the shaft. Your sleeve should be secure on the shaft (we use Loctite to hold in in place), and the set screw should be tightened down to the flat side of the motor shaft for added stability. 100mm/s is definitely a lot faster than I usually print at. I generally print at 50mm/s. The faster you print, the more likely you will be to get shaking and lose quality.

Hey, Stephen, I'm sorry, I've been away from the forums for a few days. It's very rare that I've seen a feeder motor be the issue. Is your knurled sleeve still tightly in position? What size nozzle setting and layer height are you using when you slice? You mentioned correcting the diameter--is the diameter of your filament not 2.85? What diameter is it? Acetone will flush out any ABS in the nozzle, but won't do anything for PLA. You can also try loosening the 4 screws holding the feeder housing on by a quarter turn each. If they're too tight, you can get under extrusion.

I'm glad you're able to adjust it now.

Hi, Stephen, You could be seeing too much resistance from your bowden tube or PTFE coupler. Both parts are soft and can experience wear and tear, that will cause resistance in the filament's feed path if they're worn out. How much print time is on your machine? You can check this in Maintenance --> Advanced --> Print Time. You can check bowden tube for damage by sliding the blue clip out sideways, and pushing down on the white collet while pulling up on the tube, at both ends of the machine. If you push a fresh piece of filament through by hand and find a particular point that's resisting you, there could be damage inside the tube. You can also check the feeder end for damage. You can see feeding problems if starts to look too chewed up. I have a photo here showing a good bowden tube and one in need of replacing. If the coupler is bad, there isn't any way to see that short of taking your printhead apart, but a good rule of thumb on the coupler's lifespan is about 500 print hours with PLA. Over time, due to wear and tear, and heat, the end of the coupler closest to the nozzle widens out and forms a lip, which can create feeding issues. The other thing that may have changed over the course of your printing, is how tightly wound your filament is on the spool. The closer you get to the end of a spool of filament the tighter the curvature is, making the printer have to work that much harder to fight against it and extrude the same amount of plastic. Are you very near the end of a spool?

Hi, Hausen, You should be able to adjust the screw visible from the top of the feeder (it may take a few turns before you see movement). The 2mm allen key that came with your printer should fit in the screw head. Have you disassembled the feeder housing at all (other than removing it from the back panel)?

Hi, grinnan, When you slice your file, have you tried turning off your fans in Cura? It sounds like the print may be coming off after your fans turn on. When I print ABS (I mostly print in PLA) I print it without the side fans on at all. You can disable them in Cura under Advanced --> Cooling --> Enable Cooling Fan. I also frequently put a cover (usually a piece of plastic) across the front of my machine if printing ABS, just to help keep the ambient temperature inside the machine a little warmer. ABS comes off the bed so easily because it shrinks as it cools, causing it to warp, and that's what causes it to lift from the bed, so anything you can do that slows down the cooling process should help. You may also want to try printing with a brim, so that the brim may warp rather than your main part.

I completely agree with Kris. That's going to get you the minimum amount of parts needing support. You might also want to turn on the brim feature under Platform Adhesion--since you don't have much surface area holding it to the bed (even with supports), turning your brim on should help stabilize it.

I've got full instructions here for putting your XY axis back together: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-Replacing-Parts-on-the-X-Y-Axis Sometimes in transit, set screws in the pulleys will vibrate just loose enough to cause havoc. If the back pulley on the right hand rod is loose, you'll usually see a slanting print (with a left-right slant), and since the front panel is solid, that's about the maximum damage you'll see happen. One of the pulleys on the Y axis is loose, the rod is more likely to slip out since on the front and back rods that run through the side panel, the set screws on the pulleys are the only thing holding them in place.

Since the heater is either on or off, it should be the thermocoupler regulating the temperature causing the issues. Hopefully you'll have the part in a couple of days and all will be well, but if you have any questions/concerns please reach out again. thanks, Erin... your company has already mailed a replacement I really hope this solves the problems I've been having. The ONLY thing I haven't replaced in the hot end now is the heater itself...

It definitely sounds like your original thermocouple was the problem to begin with, but it sounds like there is a problem with your new one too. Can you contact the seller about the replacement you bought?

Hope you're feeling better! The part is all packed up and sent out this afternoon.

Have you tried to contact iGo3D again?

Hi, Katie, Is that the side of the print that was against your glass? Did you use glue on it? If it's the side that was against your glass and you didn't use glue, the glass made need cleaning. If you used glue, you may want to make sure to dilute it with water enough that the layer on the glass is totally flat.

If it's scraping across your print, then I would recommend increasing your Z-hop settings. If you turn the brim feature on, the main body of your print should be fine, and if anything warps, it should only be the brim. Do you have any photos of the print with the brim turned on? Tried everthing, cleande the glass with alcohol, Then put a layer of gluestick. No fan around . . . Dont know what I can try next. Tried to prind the same file with an ultimaker and its perfect. Im asking about the Z-hop, because the nozzle is always screching the fillement when changing the position.

The speed should be good then. I don't have a Z-hop set at all right now. With those speeds, your print should be adhering pretty well. Like SandervG said, the it's going to come down to leveling, and possibly some sort of adhesive. Did you clean your bed before starting the print? It won't adhere very well if the glass is dirty; you can clean it with a little soap and water, or some rubbing alcohol. A thin layer of gluestick, diluted with water should help with a print of this shape. The other thing you can check is whether the printer is in any sort of air flow from a fan vent. Generally PLA isn't too temperature sensitive, however, each of your layers is going to take a long time due to how much of the printbed this print covers, so you may want to make sure too much heat isn't getting out through the front of the machine or getting cooled off from above.

Hi, Can you move the Z-screw by hand if you turn it, with the machine powered off? Does the motor sound like it's trying to move? You could hook your printer up to PronterFace to check and see if your endstops are functioning correctly. You can download Pronterface at PronterFace.com and trigger the endstops by hand and check the dialogue box to see if they working.

Have you turned the brim option on? What speed are you printing at? Is this PLA or ABS?

Since the print has a lot of edges and relatively thin parts, you could also turn on the brim setting under Platform Adhesion in Cura, and re-slice it.

For this orange print...did the filament leak downward from the nozzle assembly, or did the print detach and end up stuck on the printhead and flood upward? The red print from the link on April 7, looks like that one came off the bed, rather than leaking down, so I'm curious about which way this one happened.

In my experience, oiling the Z-shafts with sewing machine oil is absolutely as important as keeping the XY shafts oiled. I wouldn't recommend the Teflon infused lubricators, but, I use sewing machine oil regularly. It won't fix the bearings if the bearings themselves are bad, but if the shafts are too dry, they won't run as smoothly as they should. Weird. I did that two weeks ago but since there's always people saying that the z shafts shouldn't get any oil ever... I spread some sewing machine oil on a microfiber lens cleaning cloth then clean the z shafts with it. It works quite nice, but it won't revive any bad long bearings. Also it won't cause any z problems. I did too that Z raise, by hand with the machine off, a few times.

Glad to help! We've got instructions up for replacing a lot of parts--there's instructions for just about all of the hot end parts, as well as the whole XY axis if you ever find yourself needing to replace the belts.

Have you tried adding sewing machine oil to your Z-shafts? If the bearings aren't riding smoothly on the shafts, that can contribute to your bed not moving well. I recommend adding a drop of sewing machine oil about 3/4 of the way up the Z-shafts, and then using Maintenance --> Advanced --> Raise Build Plate a few times to make sure it's evenly spread.