fbrc8-erin

You can receive an error message if you take the Core out when the printer isn't expecting you to. Where are you at on the printer menu when you remove the Core? It looks like your filament is stopping extruding. What settings are you using? Is there any chance your filament is getting tangled?

Yikes! 3.15 definitely isn't going to make it through the bowden tube. I'm glad opening a new roll has solved the issue.

What type of PLA? Ultimaker, or another brand? Have you tried other filaments? Do your PLA/PVA prints stick to each other okay?

Maybe one of these days...

Have you taken the feeder apart for any reason recently? Pinching one of the endstop wires between the feeder motor and back panel can happen pretty easily with the UM2 feeder design, especially if the feeder is removed without taking the cable cover off.

Hi, Apple_Jax, What model printer do you have? USB printing isn't supported for most models of Ultimaker printers. The Ultimaker 2 series machines are all intended to print via the SD card; the Ultimaker 3 series can print via the USB stick, or print in Cura over wifi. Also, what version of Cura are you printing with?

Is there any chance your bowden tube isn't being seated fully after the Atomic pulls? With the UM2 printhead, it was pretty easy to see whether it was seated, because you could look through the spring and see the tube. It's a little trickier with the UM2+ because there's a solid metal piece instead. But if you look at your bowden tube above the printhead block when the tube is seated, you should be able to check and see whether there are any collet marks on it. If you can see collet marks on the tube when the bowden is seated...it's not seated where it was when it was initially built at the factory, and I'd go ahead and try removing it, straightening it out, and seating it again. If it puts up a fight, you can try loosening the thumbscrews a little; it can get caught on the metal plate sometimes.

What materials are you printing with? Are they both the same type of filament? I don't see any visible gaps in the photo of all the pieces together, but it's possible there may be an issue with your Z-offset calibration. You may want to go back into the menu and run the Z-offset calibration again. Also, have you updated the firmware?

We did have a cheaper shipping option available at one point but it was terrible. Delivery was considered 0 to 999 days and packages seemed to detour for a long while before making it to their destination, so in the interest of offering better service, we dropped them in favor of FedEx.

I'm sorry. International shipping can definitely add up. We do free ground shipping within the continental US for all orders over $75, but unfortunately can't offer the same internationally. Most of the shipping companies often charge by box dimensions rather than weight for items this small/light.

It's available at fbrc8! :-)

One other thought since you mentioned the belt shreddding--how many print hours are on the machine? I usually find around 3000 print hours is a good wear and tear time for replacing belts. I also don't see the blue clip in the printhead. Not sure if I'm just missing it in the shadows, but just wanted to mention it. You may want to go ahead and print some spares if it's missing.

Hi, I have exatly this problem. LED ist just at 25 % of its brightness, it does not go off or change its brightness if you set up a value from 1-100%. If I set 0%, it is getting brighter and not turning off ?? You know this problem ? You can open the electronics board and switch your side fans and LED connections in the electronics board. Then, try to control your LEDs using the fans in the menu Maintenance --> Advanced --> Set Fan Speed, and try to control the fans with the LED menu for brightness. If the LEDs are responding normally when plugged into the fan port, the problem is your electronics board, not the LEDs. If the LEDs don't respond correctly in either port, then you just need to get a new LED strip.

PVA is pretty humidity sensitive, so I would go ahead and store it in a sealed bag or container with some silica packs if it's not in use.

Most UM2s have a dedicated fan port, highlighted in green on this picture. The very earliest ones don't have one. I've indicated the pins used for the rear fan in blue. If you accidentally plug your orange and blue fan rear fan wire into the port highlighted in red (labeled 8/16) you're changing the steps of your Z-motor and it's only moving half as far as the machine thinks it is. Re-plugging it into the correct slot if it's in the wrong one should resolve the issue. If you managed to get it passed the calibration point, I'd also recommend a factory reset. If you can't get it passed the calibration point with it plugged in to the 8/16 connector, plugging it into the fan port alone should do the trick.

PVA's default printing temperature should be 215. I'd recommend turning it up to get the feeding a little more even. How are you storing the PVA when it's not in use?

Hi, Kyle, fbrc8 has official Ultimaker spare parts for the UMO, UMO+, UM2(+), and UM2X(+), and we're located in the US. The .6mm nozzle is in stock: http://fbrc8.com/collections/3rd-party-parts-upgrades/products/olsson-block-nozzle-brass-0-6mm

You may also want to go ahead and do an Atomic cleaning on the AA Core that had the under extrusion, just to make sure there's no burnt material in the nozzle, since it sounds like it kept running overnight after failing to extrude. The UM2 atomic method instructions here should work equally well for your AA Core. The only difference should be the menu for setting the temperature. I think it's Material --> Print Core 1/2 --> Set Temperature now. If you have issues with the BB nozzle however, there are different instructions here, due to PVA being more temperature sensitive.

Hi, Patrick, Have you replaced the bowden tube recently? You can experience wear and tear with it over time, or have debris like ground up filament work it's way into it, causing the filament not to move smoothly. The first place to look at if all the hardware is good would be your settings in Cura to determine your volumetric extrusion rate. You calculate this by using your nozzle width X layer height X print speed to get your extrusion rate in mm^3/second. 8mm^3/s running PLA at 230 C is considered a pretty healthy extrusion rate for this test. You can download the gcode here, which will automatically set the temperature 230 for this print: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2 This should give a baseline for how much under extrusion you're seeing, or whether the issue may be related to the gcode. If you're towards the end of a filament reel and it's very tightly wound, you might also start to see some under extrusion because the printer is having to work harder to unwind it and get it through the bowden tube. You mentioned replacing parts of the hot end--is your fan shroud touching the nozzle? If it is, it will act as a heat sink, and can cause under extrusion.

It looks like the bowden tube isn't seated all the way down in the TFM coupler. Remove the filament and push the bowden tube in all the way--you should see the collet marks on the tube disappear. With downward pressure on the tube, raise the white collet up and slip the blue clip into place.

PLA isn't hugely humidity sensitive. It's a good practice to put it in a container with a couple of silica packs, but it's not going to go bad in the span of a few weeks or even a few months unless it's getting exposed to extreme heat/humidity. I have some filaments that are a few years old that I still use occasionally from colors that were discontinued. PVA is more humidity sensitive, so I'd recommend sealing the filament up if you think you won't use it for a week or more. Because it dissolves on contact with water, you really want to be careful not to let moisture get into it. If you're in a really humid environment, I'd be more cautious.

Yeah @fbrc8-erin, it definitely is the bed-levelling after all. As I wrote in my last reply, I had given the idea that the sound lasted throughout the entire print, which was not the case. Apologies for the confusion, but thanks for asking! I'm sorry, it looks like I missed the last response. I was reading the earlier one where you'd mentioned the clicking being ongoing. Glad to hear it's working well!

I think there is more to it than just the autolevel system correcting for sub-optimal manual leveling. I have two reasons for this assumption: 1. It keeps doing it, even after paying real attention to manual leveling and making sure that the layer-thickness of the very first layer printed is very consistent height-wise 2. The ticking sound does not stop after the 10 layers that the autobed-level system is supposed to do it's task; in my case it keeps ticking throughout the entire print, regardless of how many layers are being printed (done some prints > 700 layers and enjoyed that sound until the prints finished). So I guess we have to start a quest to find out WHAT ELSE might be causing this ticking sound. As the original poster of this thread I cannot locate the source of the sound and have no clue how to pinpoint what is causing it. If anyone has any idea, please share it with us so we can start printing quietly Hey, Zwakie, Did you ever find out what is causing the noise? Have you tried putting spray air into the feeder to clean it of any filament debris that might be caught in there?

The UM2(X), UM2(X)+, UMO+ and UM3 all use the same size glass plates.