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Nope. You're thinking of Carbon Fiber, I think. PC totally fine with a brass nozzle. And the latest firmware gives you the option to select PC as a material choice.

You may want to try turning down the temperature and checking your retraction settings if it seems like you're having a lot of oozing. Could you provide photos?

Hi there, Could you try uploading the pictures again? They don't seem to have come through on this thread. What settings are you using for the PVA Core? One of the default profiles (if so, which one?) or custom settings? Are you using Ultimaker PVA or another brand?

I'm not sure what you mean by configure the second head. Which process are you trying to run? If you move the lifting switch by hand, can you move it backwards and forward? Can you move the lifting switch if you take the Core out?

Also make sure there's no filament hanging off the end of the nozzle; it will throw off the height calculation. If that and making sure the glass is clean don't do the trick, tighten your bed springs a little.

Eeeek. Been there, done that. Been a while since I blistered quite that badly though...I think my skin has gotten tougher.

Thanks, Baseline, we really try our best to make a smooth process for everybody. I love getting to see the incredible things you and others in the community are creating.

Having spent a little time printing TPU (I've never tried NinjaFlex), I think these are pretty good. Glad to see that PVA will stick to it pretty well--give you more options.

It sounds like your front fan may not be running; if strings of filament have gotten caught in the fan blades, the fan won't run. If it's not running, the print won't start, but it also won't be able to finish cooling down the print core after you try to abort it. Power of the printer and use tweezers to try to remove any visible strings of filament around the fan. When the fan is clear of debris strings it should run normally again.

You want the screws labeled Left Cover.

Looks great!

Is the Print Core not heating anymore? Did the filament snap off somewhere between the Core and the top of the printhead block? Is there another thread with the Print Core issue?

The best way to get the white knob front off is actually to push it from the back. There's a hole in the clear plastic cover; push your screwdriver into the hole and you can push the white knob front through from behind. I've tried slipping an exacto knife around the edges to pull the white knob front out once...broke the knife blade. That was not fun. So, the hair was interfering with the contacts between the SD card and the reader?

Looks good so far! What was the total print time on the dual extrusion flower? Have you tried it without the prime tower?

Do you have your active leveling turned on still? There's an option in the menu to re-do your Z-offset calibration. When you start your prints, is the tip of your nozzle clean? If there's filament hanging off it, it will throw off the active leveling process.

I've seen this print done with single extrusion printers, but I think removing the supports would be a pain. I'm kind of temped to go ahead and paint the bottom part green, but most of my attempts to paint my prints haven't gone well and I don't want to ruin this one.

I like brim for certain shapes, but I hate removing it--I found one of the things I've started doing if it's a print I'd consider using brim for but is dual extrusion with PVA...I just do the brim in PVA and it makes life easier.

Thanks, Limeyboy! We try our best. Glad to get you back up and printing again.

Actually, my advice was to stop touching the electronics until you'd gotten in touch with your local reseller. :-)

What version of Cura are you using? Are you using the default settings? Is the filament getting tangled? Are you doing a print with a lot of retraction in it?

This might be my new favorite piece I've printed. I love it from every angle. Faberdashery PLA and Ultimaker PVA. Printed from Thingiverse thing 255980.

Thanks, jhirschman. We'll get that wifi board out today. One thing to keep in mind when you get the new one installed--you'll still see the fans power on for half a second, and the printer will appear dead (for about 20 seconds), and then everything will start up as normal. The full power on process takes approximately 1 minute. I'm very glad we were able to get you back to printing this weekend though. :-)

Is your bowden tube seated all the way into your PTFE coupler? Is your bowden tube the right way around? I've seen filament get stuck if the feeder end is in the printhead. This photo is the end that should be in your feeder. How many print hours are on the printer? It may be time to change out the coupler. I've got pictures of a new coupler and deformed couplers side by side.

Have you tried flipping your glass over and checking to see if the problem changes? If you get the opposite high/low points with the glass flipped, then it's a glass issue, and you should be able to get a piece of replacement glass under warranty.

There's also always unspooled filaments too. I like Faberdashery filament, sitting on a lazy susan. Much wider curvature throughout the filament, and consistent throughout the whole package.