fbrc8-erin

I usually use the 3D printed torque wrench when changing out the nozzle tips. Is there any filament getting caught between the threads on the nozzle tips or on your Olsson block?

Did it die in the middle of a print, or just wouldn't turn on one day? How old is the machine? Have you tried turning it on without the SD card inserted?

Hi, Andy, I print with Faberdashery frequently, and usually have good results. Is it the right size filament? I know Faberdashery makes 1.75mm and 2.85mm. Did your filament get tangled? I usually set Faberdashery filaments on a lazy susan while doing long prints. If you've been printing wth the Ultimaker silver PLA, the white Faberdashery PLA shouldn't adhere any differently from the silver, since they're both PLA. Have the shapes of your prints changed? What sort of bottom layer speed are you using?

Hi, Bangalore, The official side fans from Ultimaker are available in the US now via fbrc8. fbrc8 does Ultimaker assembly and support in the US, and we began carrying spare parts in spring 2015.

If the printer is restarting when the printhead raises above room temperature, it's possible that you have some sort of short in your heater. Has anything been disassembled recently? Is the back flap of your fan shroud (if you have a back flap on it) cutting into your heater cartridge? Does whether or not the heated bed is on have any impact on whether or not the printer is rebooting? If you unplug the power supply from the printer and the wall, does the blue light on the power supply go off immediately, or does it stay on for a while? It should stay on for a while; if it goes off immediately, then your power supply isn't behaving normally.

The first photo almost looks like it's not getting enough cooling time (though I see the under extrusion in the second two). Have you tried printing more than one at once? Do all of your fans seem to be fully operational? I would definitely recommend lubricating all three axes as soon as you get the sewing machine oil in. In general, it does make a world of difference to the functionality of the machine. Has the Z-screw been lubricated with magnalube since you've had the machine? Have you made any adjustments to the feeder on the back of your printer? Is the knurled sleeve on the feeder motor shaft still securely in place? You might try slacking off the 4 screws holding the feeder on by about 1/4 of a turn if you're using the standard UM2 feeder. Also, are you nearly at the end of that roll of ColorFabb? If you are and the filament is more tightly coiled, the feeder will have to fight harder to unspool it. Have you checked out your bowden tube for any signs of damage or resistance?

I'm glad you were able to get assistance. If there's anything else we can do, please let us know.

Hi, LePaul, I'm sorry to hear you didn't get a response. Our team is very conscientious about responding to all queries in a timely manner (our hours are 8-4:30pm central time). The easiest way to reach us is emailing Support@fbrc8.com, however, we are also available by phone and live chat during our office hours. Did you check the domain name when you emailed? We've had a few emails we found out bounced because the domain name was incorrect; fbrc8 should be spelled without any vowels. If you still need anything please don't hesitate to reach out to us and we can answer any questions.

Hi, Wisar, On all UM2/UM2+ series machines the knob front and knob housing are secured to the shaft coming out of the Ulticontroller board using a washer and hex nut. Is your knob housing loose in the frame? If it is, you can raise the bed and you should be able to find a hole in the top half of the knob housing at the back. Hold the knob housing in place a push a screwdriver through it to push your knob front out, and then you can use a pair of pliers to tighten the hex nut or check for debris. There are photos of the process here.

How many print hours have you put on the printer since the last time you replace the PTFE coupler? It will deform over time due to friction and heat, and need to be replaced. The average lifespan of the coupler is about 500 print hours with PLA, fewer hours with high temp/abrasive materials. Also, have you check your bowden tube for signs of damage? The printhead end should be cut flat. The feeder end should be widened out at 45 degrees. If the feeder end looks chewed up, you can try trimming a couple millimeters off and widening it out again. I have a photo here of a good feeder end and a bad feeder end for the bowden tube: Also, if you remove both ends of the bowden tube from the printer (slide out the blue clip and press down on the white collet while you pull up on the bowden tube), try running a fresh piece of filament through the tube by hand. If you hit a point where it snags, there may be damage inside the tube. If you have any ground up debris inside the tube or your feeder, you'll want to clean that out, because it could impede the progress of your filament. You can clean debris out of the tube by putting a little wad of paper towel in the tube and pushing it through with a piece of filament by hand. To clean the feeder, I'd remove the bowden tube and spray the feeder with canned air.

I'm glad you've got it working now. It sounds like you could have also resolve the issue by tightening your bed springs a little to have a little more space between the nozzle and bed.

The UM2 firmware runs the feeder in the opposite direction of the UM2+ firmware, so like neotko said, updating to the UM2+ firmware on your machine will resolve the issue. Regarding the ferrite core; the ferrite core was a later addition to the printers, so the earlier UM2s don't have any. You don't have to have them, but if you want them, you should be able to find them online. With the UM2/UM2+ machines we put one around the Feeder and Y motor cables down by the electronics board, and one underneath the right hand cable cover wrapped around the X motor cable.

Was your Ultimaker robot also sliced in KISSlicer, or is it the default gcode that came on the SD card? If you slice in Cura are your results the same? Is your filament purging at the start of your prints? What sort of bottom layer speed are you using, and what is your layer height? If you're trying to push too much filament out at once, you can see grinding and under extrusion. If the printhead is moving too quickly on the bottom layer, it could have adhesion problems and get caught on the head. Are you printing in ABS or PLA?

The super glue should hold it in place. I've seen this in a few instances. I think it may be the tolerances between the gear and the post, or green grease slipping between the two parts. So far, the printer I experimented with using the superglue seems to be holding. I think the gear slippage tends to be a wear and tear issue, though there could also be a slight variance in the gear size. I don't believe I've seen the issue occur more than once on the same machine, so it should only be related to the gear, rather than the feeder, as I will generally replace the gear if it it slips.

I print mostly in Faberdashery (UK based filament) and Ultimaker filaments. I love the colors for Faberdashery and the fact that it's not on a spool--less curvature of the material for the printer to fight. I've also printed with some of Protopasta's specialty filaments. I've used ColorFabb's bronzefill, but haven't tried out their PLA filaments yet, but they have a fantastic reputation.

I haven't tested the Beta enough yet to know if there are issues with it, but this is the first I've heard of shifting related to the beta switch. If the motor is getting too much current you can sometimes see a hard shift in the print, or if the machine is over heating. When the firmware was updated, was a factory reset performed? If not, I recommend it.

If your machine at work is an Ultimaker 2+, then it won't have a spare temp sensor. Since the 2+ comes with the Olsson block installed, you're unlikely to need to remove the temp sensor (unless it fails), so a spare is not included, just the extra nozzle tips. If your machine at work is an Ultimaker 2, whether or not it came with a spare hot end pack will depend on the serial number/when it shipped out. You can bend the back flap on your fan shroud out a little, or break it off altogether. The Ultimaker 2+ fan shroud does away with the back flap on the shroud.

Hi, Stephen, That's your temperature sensor, not your heater. I do not recommend heating your printer while the temp sensor and heater are not both in the brass block. If the heater and temp sensor aren't seeing one another, your heater will heat indefinitely and that would end very, very badly. Since you have an Ultimaker 2 Extended, your printer did come with a hot end pack, which has a spare temp sensor, for exactly this reason--it's very difficult to remove the temp sensor intact from the nozzle, due to a tight fit. Your heater and temp sensor wires both run from the printhead to the electronics board underneath your printer (left hand side). Unplugging the temp sensor and replacing it isn't too difficult. I have instructions here: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206151456-Changing-Parts-in-the-Print-Head Since the temp sensor cable is pretty slick, if you open up the electronics cover and pull out the existing cable from the TEMP 1 slot, you should be able to feed the wire up pretty easily through the black mesh.

Thanks! I've been pretty impressed with it so far too. I don't print ABS often, but when I print it, I like to raise the temp to 110 and any sort of airflow near the printer without the cover makes it hard.

It looks like Dynamism where you found the cover sells the replacement filters for $79 according to their site. I haven't gotten to the point of needing to replacement filter yet.

Definitely not made by Ultimaker, but I have to say, I have one, and I like it so far. It's similar to the designs on YouMagine. In fact, the black plastic parts are printed in ABS. But it has a fan and filter up in the corner. So far, I've been using it for about 2 weeks for high temperature materials on a UM2+. I appreciate not having to smell any ABS while I work.

Hi, SciRefDesk, If you're having shifting prints, it's most often caused by a loose set screw, either in the pulleys on your axis rods, or on the motor itself. Are your shifts left to right or front and back? Also, is your XY axis well-lubricated? Does the printhead move freely if you try to move it by hand with the machine powered off? Use the 2mm allen key that came with your printer to check all the set screws in the rods on the pulleys and make sure they're tight. If they are, go ahead and try to home your head with Maintenance --> Advanced --> Home Head. It should home to the back left corner. Once it gets there, it should be locked in place. Try to move it forward, and try to move it to right. If you can move it in either direction when the motor is locked in place, then the pulley on the motor itself is loose (or the pulley attached to the short belt on the rod for the X motor). There are instructions here for accessing the motor pulley to tighten it.

I'm so glad you like the upgrade. Your print looks fantastic!

Hi, Bruce, It looks like your black and white wire are screwed into the same hole, unless that's just a trick of the angle. They should be in separate slots on the terminal block. If any of those 4 slots is empty, you'll see an error message. You might be able to solder the connection back together, but there's also a good chance that you're still under warranty. The UM2 Extended hasn't been out for much longer than a year, and all Ultimakers come with a 1 year warranty. If you'll send in your serial number and purchase information to Support@fbrc8.com we can check and see what we can do for you.