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fbrc8-erin

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Posts posted by fbrc8-erin

    Co-Polyester + PVA?

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    I haven't tried ColorFabb Co-Polyester, but Ultimaker CPE and PVA are totally a workable and supported combination, per the chart here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility 

    Ultimaker CPE+ isn't supported with PVA (it uses a high bed temperature), but regular Ultimaker CPE is supported with it. In theory ColorFabb Co-Polyester is probably okay, but I haven't tried it. If you're going to try a combination with PVA that you're not sure about...keep an eye on the print when testing it out.

    • Like 1

    UM3 Feeder screw backend popped out

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    The motor cover is just held in place with tabs. Put your bed all the way at the bottom off the printer, and then pull on the top corner of the motor cover kind of diagonally. It may put up a bit of a fight; it's a tight fit.
     

    Press the threaded inserts back into the correct position on the inside of the printer; if need be, you can screw the screw into it with it not quite seated and it will pull it through the rest of the way, and then you can take the screw out and screw your feeder back on.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

    PVA mess

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Based on the photos, screen shots, and settings, I'd recommend increasing your support horizontal expansion. It's going to use more PVA (which is expensive as mentioned), but the part with the eyes will stick better if it's attached to the part under the chin. I also usually use a PVA brim for prints with PVA supports. 

    • Like 1

    bigger extruder motor

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Smithy said:

    If the gear has a normal round hole without a flat part, then you have to position the set screw to this flat part. When tightened, the screw prevents the gear from spinning on the axis. 

     

    The geared motors are all press fit. The knurled ones on the UM2 had set screws, but the plastic gears are press fit. 

    @Carlito are you putting a lot of grease on the gears? Installation instructions on the upgrade kit call for a little grease, but it should really only be a very little amount. I've seen a few slipped gears, but it shouldn't be occurring at the rate you're reporting. I would check into the other areas conny_g and Smithy mentioned. Something is making it work too hard.

    Sources for UMO+ Hotend Isolator Couplers?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    I can provide some more details on the shipping, but we ship everything FedEx so we can make sure to track it, insure, etc. I realize that might sound silly on something as small as a coupler, but we try and make sure people get the part they need right the first time. We used to split our shipping between UPS and the post office. Bad experiences with both brought us to FedEx; the FedEx hub is located here in Memphis, so we've had a really good shipping experience with them. 

    Ultimaker 2 Damage

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Based on the wrinkle you can see in the panel in the back left corner, the top panel definitely needs to be replaced. It's possible that replacing the top panel and loosening the side panel screws will be enough to get the front panel sitting flat again, but I can't guarantee it based on the photos. It's possible the front panel is no longer square; you could take a right angle tool to the top and check it out.

    Your reseller probably doesn't have the parts in stock, but if you reach out to them, they should be able to order them.

    • Like 1

    It won't stop extruding UM2E+

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    For your Ultimaker 2+...it's built into the firmware. Unless you use a different header/manually write gcode that overrides the firmware, it's always going to purge like that.

    On the UM3, it purges, but differently, and the purge is controlled by Cura, so you have the option to turn it on or off for each print when you slice the file.

    It won't stop extruding UM2E+

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    The UM2+ does the purge as part of the UM2+ firmware. You could override it with a different slicer, but if you're slicing in Cura, the firmware is going to proceed as normal with this purge.
     

    The UM3 does a priming blob at bed level (it should stick) as part of the gcode and settings in Cura. You can also turn it off in Cura. (Check boxes for Enable Prime Blob.)

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