fbrc8-erin
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3D Prints
Posts posted by fbrc8-erin
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Do you have a video of it?
Is it an issue with the printhead shaft's fit in the plastic sliding blocks?
Or are the perimeters rods loose in the frame? -
The most common reason for the front fan to fail is usually that little hairs of filament get wrapped around it. You can clear these out with a pair of tweezers; if it hasn't been stuck too long it should run again once the hairs are removed. If it's spent too long trying to run but unable to, the motor on the fan itself will be burnt out and the fan will need to be replaced.
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Try running the lifting switch calibration in the menu, and then try your active leveling again. I don't have a video of doing it on the S5, but it's physically the same process as on the UM3, just a different menu/screen:
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I agree it's most likely a hardware issue with the click wheel, but...I have seen an occasional case where the ribbon cables not quite being seated all the way can cause clicks not to register (but scrolling still registers), so...never hurts to try before throwing parts at it. ?
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Have you removed the double flat cables and reseated them at both ends (main board and Ulticontroller)? Wouldn't hurt to try if you haven't yet.
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The too long to heat error can be related to a printhead communication error; there were some firmware changes that makes the error recording a little clearer. I would definitely recommend updating. If its an i2c/ER18/ER19 error after updating, reseating the printhead cable usually resolves it.
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It's definitely worth a try. I'm sorry I missed the part about having tried the power supply already.
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Your reseller should still be able to help you with diagnostics, even if you've moved. The issue could be the heated bed, or the power supply. I have seen once instance where someone shorted out their rear fan (they pinched it against the metal plate) and had a similar issue. Do you have another power supply to try for comparison? As a community forum here, people do try to help each other, but for the fastest results, I do recommend reaching out to your reseller.
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Is your firmware up to date?
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Be careful about enclosing it too much---you still want your printer to be able to breathe. I've seen a couple of cases where if you fully seal the printer off too close (garbage bag, or foam with no openings), the sliding blocks get just soft enough that your printhead shaft won't be able to fit securely anymore. They're just plastic. The printer needs some ability to breathe/keep from overheating.
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It looks like those 4 parts are the same.
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On 10/18/2018 at 7:13 PM, Shadowman said:
I just did a search and no part number was presented for the spring. I also searched within;
I need to double check the individual part numbers before I add this page to the S5 collection, but I believe all of these parts are the same for both the UM3 and UMS5 printers: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/lifting-switch-pack-um3-um3x
It's not really common for the spring to fall through like that--I don't see it often. But it's a cheap enough spare part to have on hand if it's something you wanted to keep a spare one hand for.
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You can disassemble the printhead and reinstall it. There are some photos of the process on this thread.
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Always glad to help.
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I swear one of these days I want to find the time to start learning to sculpt...there just never seem to be enough hours in the day. It's always so good to see your work.
The print was a little longer than a day, with a prime tower I think. I spent about 3 days meaning to start the print and never getting it started, and then left it soaking in water for an extra day after I meant to take it home.
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Just now, kmanstudios said:
Very nice! What were your settings to get it that smooth?
Default .15mm profile for the most part, .4 Cores, and Ultimaker filament. I turned on "connect supports" and used a PVA brim. I might have also made the support horizontal expansion 3.5 instead of 3.
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Stunning, @cloakfiend! Seriously loving all the post-processing you do on your prints. Gorgeous work.
This is my latest print (STL, not mine). I may attempt to paint it, but don't have high hopes for a nice paint job (my hand-eye coordination is lacking).
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On 10/12/2018 at 9:30 AM, Arturas said:
Hi,
myself have issue woth u3 camera. From my iphone it shows details of print but trying to turn on camera its just black window.
also, why i can not access to iphone app when i am not wifi connection?
What for i need to see what is printing , when i at home on same wifi. ?
Thank you
If you're inside the same network and have a black screen where the camera stream should be, try a Cura Connect reset on the printer.
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Hi,
I have those parts available in the US, but, as it looks like you're located in Europe, I would definitely recommend reaching out to your reseller, as it will be a shorter shipping distance/less shipping cost to order locally.It sounds like you need a UMO?UMO+ hot end pack, UMO+ temp sensor, and UMO+ heater for sure.
Which plate is broken? The large square aluminum plate in the printhead? -
Have you washed the bed? It looks like it could use it. This looks like a leveling and potentially bed cleanliness issue rather than anything caused by running out of filament.
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If your printer is stuck on the print failed screen every time you turn it back on, you'll want to try a factory reset, and if that doesn't work, you may need to reflash the Olimex board with a microSD card. @gr5 has posted instructions on that here:
For the USB not reading--you may want to access the Ulticontroller and Olimex and make sure the USB cable is actually fully seated. There's a black USB cable that runs from the Ulticontroller to the Olimex board, and a double flat braided cable that runs between the two. It's important for them to both be seated all the way.
The print failed message could have been a very very brief power outage. I've seen it once or twice.-
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Glad to help! I've totally gone and favorited that on YouMagine now so I can find it again later.
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You can always get the step file from the github and make it an STL, and print it with dissolvable supports (I don't think it would print well without them). If I remember, it's part 1962: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus
I don't think I've ever come across a ready to go printable one from anyone yet.
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Printhead has fore and aft wiggle
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
I'll take a look at some printers when I'm back in the office for comparison, but it's likely part of the natural variation in tolerances between parts--if one part is at one end of the specs and the other part is at the other end you could see something like this. It might be worth swapping the printhead shaft from your other printer for comparison if it's a tolerance issue between the bearing and shaft.
That said, I think at least one of the printers I run regularly does the same thing; no printing issues with it so far. Even if it's towards the edges of the tolerance, it shouldn't impact the printing. Do you have visible movement in it during printing?