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Titus

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Everything posted by Titus

  1. wtf? I ordered 3 more colors(red, yellow and blue, already had orange). Two of which came on the same spool as the orange, and the red one came on a different one. Smaller diameter, thicker spool. Different manufacturer? Probably different tolerances. Min Max Orange 2,9 3 Red 2,83 2,88 Yellow 2,8 2,95 Blue 2,83 2,92 Not really consistent diameter across the length of the plastic... That is not the real problem, it's the fact that different colors have different averages... Therefore swapping between colors becomes problematic, you'd have to correct with flow. How is that with materials from UM/ColorFabb/Plastic2Print/MTB3D? Are they consistent average between colors? Conclusion: 123inkt is budget PLA. Don't buy if you want consistency.
  2. I have a theory of your secret recipe Sander! Will try cura scaling again at some point
  3. First try at 0.25 scaled, completely stuck :(
  4. I was looking at this pretty cool app: http://modio3d.com You can design your own creatures and create multicolor stl buildplates to print. Pretty awesome!!! I printed some things to try it out but whenever I try to snap two pieces together, it cracks, or layers peel right off due to shear forces. Any idea on how to improve this? I pulled the files from thingiverse to try: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:401830
  5. I printed the 0.7 scaled: Leaking at the bottom somehow, and underextrusion at some point, probably due to spool friction
  6. Yeah, it isn't listed at the ultimaker materials I missed it the first time too.
  7. Wow gr5, that is a lot of useful info. I didn't realize that spiralize meant one pass, otherwise I wouldn't have upped the wall thickness etc so much! I was only trying to get it thicker, using more passes Will experiment with the feature again after my remove top and 0 % infil is done. @Blizz, that is the otherway, just uncheck fill top, and put a 0% infill.
  8. I saw the topic title and was like, woa, that is the IP that I use to get into the Doodle3D box! So what happends when it detects the box? I'm not at home atm to test it.
  9. Update, I tried a "solid" print with 20 % without spiralize, works perfectly fine... So this is probably a Cura issue with the spiralize setting, or I'm not using it like I should. I guess the remove top and 0 % infill is indeed the way to go.... I was printing this vase Duesentrieb:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19031
  10. I've decided to go and give vases a try: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19031 But I can't seem to get the bottom solid, or the walls stick to the bottom/thick enough. I used the following settings: Check spiralize in expert settings layer 0.2 shell 1.2 bottom 1.2 fill 20 speed 75 temp 210(PLA) flow 110 As you can see in the pictures it looks like backlash, but other objects don't seem to suffer from it.... I attached my Gcode, could someone run that to see if it's my machine or the gcode. https://www.dropbox.com/s/whkrlfvy2n8q78p/gearedVase1.gcode
  11. Print Vote: Preassembled Secret Heart Box Tried it before, didn't work out, looking forward to another try!
  12. Damn Daid, that picture got me. I thought it was a link to photo of the bed
  13. @SandervG, you can suggest any model for next month, the current models that were suggested(winner is decided by a vote) are:
  14. I'm afraid that I didn't managed to print one. I tried one but it didn't stick to the build plate and got ruined :( As it turns out, it was too complicated for me :( I'm still tweaking the printer
  15. Oh well, today was a good day as I learned something Tomorrow is another day, time to fix other problems of my poor Ultimaker
  16. Oh boy, I totally forgot. I spend all my time test printing stuff! Will print it tomorrow! I actually really feel like printing without supports Not sure what will happen though. @Aaron, when will we start voting for a a)winner, b)new month, c)new posts
  17. Thanks! I just discovered how that works, after installing OSCAD, which is some kind of PCB design tool I'd have to use that more often! But do you guys open the SCAD file before even printing it and sizing everything up? It doesn't sound really user friendly, especially for UM2 users that want a desktop printer. It's still hard to believe
  18. @Anon, either you fix that in the software(just let two wheels run backwards), or put in an extra gear/ reversing transmission. I think the first option is preferred as to keep the maximum efficiency. Actually, what about something way cooler. We put freewheeling wheels in there, and use the air to propel the robot Like a hovercraft on wheels
  19. Hi all, Is there a way to set the speed at which the top layers are printed? I see the bottom layer speed in the advanced tab, but for prints with small tops, it would be nice to set a higher top speed to avoid smudging the print(no need for a wipe tower perhaps?) What do you think?
  20. EDIT: For the record, I print most of my prints at 210 degrees C now Layer : 0.1 Shell: 0.8 Bot/top: 0.7 fill: 20% speed 75 mm/s So now it's just a case trial and error? I can hardly believe that you would need to print every file you take from youmagine/thingiverse and print it, measure and rework it, before it is usable. That just doesn't sound right :( For example. I wanted to print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126716/#files And the big hole on the Chariot that should fit a M4 bolt, just fits an M3, and the M3's don't. Could there be something else wrong? Flow? Friction in the printhead(hard to move on it's own)? Print settings? Cooling fan shroud shape? From another topic: I can't put more tension on my short belts I believe. Could it also have something to do with the friction in the long belts(Mine's pretty high) It could be fixed by a higher overlap I guess, but that would also introduce new problems right?
  21. Nop, it flies without flipping the sides: On a related note, we could also design something like this, to avoid it breaking down:
  22. I'm not sure if Cura can do this, but you can always reverse your wires on the motor and use the bottom endstop
  23. Ok, this one is interesting: I removed the dampers on X/Y(still there on Z, planning to remove that one too.) Result: Round circles, but still to small ( 5,6mm vs 6mm and 4,4mm vs 4,5mm) Getting there! So, what's next?
  24. Bericht van 123inkt: Goedemiddag, Dit hebben wij uitgezocht voor u. De diameter van de plastic is 3 mm met een tolerantie van 0.05 mm . Ik hoop u hiermee voldoende te hebben geïnformeerd. Met vriendelijke groet, Krystian Wierachowski
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