Titus

Wow, nice software! Fiddling with Cura to get as many on it as possible has proven to be tough a couple of times. It's just a shame that I don't feel confident enough to put multiple things on a build plate most of the time.

Die ontmoeting en rondleiding in het HQ met het R&D team he, is die ook voor ons ?

OMG, Solid Print 3D, thanks for the notice of split parts function! I've wondered many times what it does, and now I forgot about it. It works perfect I'll try the hot bath and the strain relief cuts. Let me post some pictures this week. For the rest of the parts, you said a large brim, as in, a wide brim around the object? The problem is this large part: http://www.myminifactory.com/uploads/object-images/6debd2cad0fa7550b90b8fdac79614bb3d4543fa.jpg I had to scale everything down 0.9 to get the large part to fit diagonally in my machine, and disable skirt. So I fear there is not really a way to get a brim around that. Or perhaps I should cut that part up in 2 parts again?

Dear Community, It's been study time lately with less time to print, but I've got a ball coming up and I need some props. So I've been trying to print this awesome model in glowfill: http://www.myminifactory.com/object/duke-mk-44-hand-cannon-from-destiny-2140 Barnecules did a video on it, check it out: Anyway, I've printed the two handle parts on my UMO and when I tried fitting them together to see how it looks, I noticed both parts, having a large surface area, were a bit warped :( So it's not a 'tight' enough fit to actually glue. I was wondering whether you guys had any experience with models cut in halve and glued together & warping issues. P.S. on an unrelated side note, how can you seperate parts that are merged into 1 STL file? Thanks!!

Pretty sweet stuff! I like how they build these tools, must have some broad oriented programmers with hardware experience.

Hoeveel kg per rol?

Probably messed up my mid-term exam Control Theory due to stupid calculation errors

if you print all at once the objects can be put closer together, since there is no risk the head will hit previously printed items. I am struggling with this too.

I have only 2 things to add: -Isn't it so that the UMO+ has the UM2 electronics? Making it as quiet as the UM2 itself? -Search the forums for a topic regarding Heated Bed and Dual extrusion concerning power. I believe the statement was it was best to get a UMO with Heated Bed kit(Not UMO+ electronics!!!), as this would allow you to do both heated bed and dual extrusion with 2 different power supplies. The new electronics won't allow that if I'm correct. So if you need both, you are in for a tough choice! Hm, they do still sell the UMO It's kinda strange though, that you wouldn't be able to use the better electronics version for both HB and DE, but I could be wrong on that. Daid? Any comment on that?

*drool* Why is it that I'm never able to print something as sweet as that robot

Dear Slonken, Here you will find most troubleshooting you need, thanks to Robert http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide You are experiencing some pillowing at the top, and some irragular circles, also knows as backlash/play(probably pulleys aren't tight enough). I can't see more from the small size(please use forum upload function).

:( Couldn't tap into the polycom like before to listen in :(

I'm not going to be there. Deadlines and university. Also, maintenance for UMO is better documented already. Blizz, sorry to miss you this time! Can you take notes if you hear something interesting ?

Most of the time Credit Card companies have really good services. Send them a note, explain your situation. Get your money back(several CC companies guarentee delivery of your bought items, and insure them for a couple of months). Finally Call UM and order again while on the phone to confirm every step, or just order again, with the faith that you won't get an error this time It must be damn frustrating though!

From the looks of it you are experiencing a couple of things, underextrusion amongst them: Have a read in Roberts guide here; http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Also, that print, is really tricky, start with some easier stuff The smudging is due to the fact that the hot end stays on that surface for a while, and comes back before it's cooled off. Printing a little tower somewhere in the other corner could help you here.

I was thinking of using a dremel on bronzefill, but it's not really working as well as hand polishing. The thumbler idea seems interesting though!

Yeah, I asked that. Sadly the answer was no :( But I'm guessing they have some R&D department working on that.

if your budget allows for colorfabb(XT as ABS replacement), go for it without thinking. That stuff is great. Their XT is amazingly strong and safe to use, whereas ABS is well, google for the paper Colorfabb released on the toxicity levels of their materials vs other materials. Also I love bronzefill, glowfill(if you print this solid, it shines for a long time), and ofcourse woodfill, their new copper an bamboo fill

Good tips there! I'll get both badges if possible

wow, @Didier, that easy way to do it Now I feel dumb

You guys can always hold a contest yourself

Is it a 1 time discount, or everytime? I was thinking of joining 3DHubs and printing the UM samples for a while now, but there are so many already in my town

I tried to cut at a plane in meshmaker and seperate the two objects. In theory this should work, but I'm a TOTAL meshmaker NOOB and I don't get how I can move objects xD

Only getting hairy prints with bronzefill so far, non of the PLA/wood/xt/glow does it.

I think the original way to apply hearspray was also to take the glass out, spray it outside the machine, and reinstall the glass I wonder what the baking spray does The butter replacement so to speak