Titus

Also, most solder tin is way to soft to be fed by a extruder. You would need some sort of different mix, giving it hardness to be extruded. Other than that, it seems plausible. @ColorFabb, something for you guys to design ?

Quick and dirty: You can press your endstop early, and finetune by turning the Z spindle by hand. Slow and semi dirty: edit your Gcode so that every Z value is your desired height higher. Perhaps possible and quite ok: pause print at the start, tune Z height and resume print(I believe this requires some different firmware, like the one with the babysteps) Just three options that popped into my head

omg! I finally realized how this thing works :eek: It's amazing!

Stream! Stream! Stream it !

I had the same, 2,5 hours in my 2nd overnight 8 hour print :( I can;t think of a reason other than a corrupted file on the SD card. So I reloaded and removed safely. Will report tomorrow morning.

Hm, I was hoping for same motor and electronics

Hi all, Just a few short questions bundled together in 1 topic: 1) When I add some things on the buildplate and save it, it makes a AMF file. If reopened, the placement of the things is totally messed up as can be seen in the following pictures. If it's explicitly saved as STL, the placement remains the same upon opening. What's the idea behind this AMF file? 2) Is it possible to tell Cura which object should be printed first? Or is the automatic function already good enough not to bump into other objects. I guess the hot end size in the settings is leading for this setting? I should update that with my printed fanshroud!

Hi Gr5, Thanks for your replies! To add to them in order: 1) I'm not sure what you mean by sticky, and droping suddenly, how I would be able to observe it. I was printing at 0.2 layer 0.8mm shell 1mm bot/top with 100 mm/s 210 degrees 2.9 diameter 100% flow. Now I'm printing at 110 mm/s 212 degrees 2.85 diameter 107% flow. And that works great... 2) nothing to add yet 3) Yes, an oven sounds like a good idea! Cutting it off and putting it in the printer less, especially since I have a working teflon, peek, brass, aluminum, brass solution right now. I'd rather not change that This teflon on the picture is a spare. 4) An atomic pull seems the right way to go. I already did a few, but that was with the aluminium block removed from the peek. How would you do it without deconstructing everything? Take the bowden out the hot end and go directly through the wood/teflon? Or leave the bowden in the hotend?

Wowowowow, this sounds awesome! I've wanted to try bronzefill so bad and learn about the other fills! I must try to make it, not sure if I'll be able to though Will this Ulti-evening also be filmed?

Ok, so I had a few small questions that I thought I'd bundle. 1) Starting with this print here: Severe underextrusion going on there. Could it be caused by difference in diameter of the pla? Because I'm pretty sure the spool was loose and didn't cause the problem, also I didn't tweak the settings whatsoever during the print, and some parts are pretty perfect, others are shit. Same thing goes for this picture. It just seems to preform well, even had parts without a single underextrusion line, all the same settings. 2) Today I decided to fix my hot end, since Joris pointed out that my PEEK was against the heaterblock rather than the nozzle. Obvious mistake, I don't know how I didn't see that when I bought the printer... Going from this(note the hotend) To this: When taking it all apart(very carefully not to break the brass/PEEK) I noticed these wires were not really in the best shape. It's the first time I have a good look at them since I bought the printer. My guess is that sooner or later they will brake. What do you think? Is a preventive replacement advisable? Is that a standard part you can get in an electronics store? Should I get the same kind, or go for the thermistor with R23 installed. Which option is advisable? 3) I also opened up the bag with extra nozzles/parts I got with the printer and found this boy: The teflon it self looks good, so I was wondering what the best way was to get the ABS out and salvage the teflon part as a spare one. 4) What is the best way to change a nozzle? I've been googling and looking in the forum, but the deal just seems to be: heat up, unscrew, done. But I'd say you get some plastic in places you don't want it to be...

I stopped by and helped Joris out for a couple of hours: Man this entire setup and thing is amazing!

It looks like this now

http://3dprint.com/12158/3doodler-3d-printed-drone/

I've decided to give raft a try, and that works perfect! It takes like 5 minutes extra, but at least all parts stick to it

Strange stuff. I tried front first and back first. Back works just fine, front messed up... Bed leveling too low. So I leveled higher, same thing. Now I leveled slightly to high and printing back first to see if it works:

As seems to be the new hype: done

Actually something other you could try that you won't believe: Sewing machine oil. Few drops on all silver rods(8, including two in the Z stage). I had a very tough to move head too, squared it, didn't make a difference... Then I bought some oil for 4 euro's. Best buy ever

Spend my summer writing directing, filming, acting, editting and promo'ing for the new movie we made with the Ultimate Frisbee club at our University in Delft, have a look:

Dear all, I'm trying to speed up my process of printing things that require multiple parts, or making multiples of 1 thing. In this case I'm trying to make a couple of Wobblies: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170932 I'm printing the body upside down with touch buildplate support for the joint thingies. As you can see in the album, this gives me a pretty neat part(apart from some under extrusion due to filament). But as soon as the 2nd body starts, the print is totally smudged. Which seem to point out a leveling issue, even though the first part was printed correctly. I've had this problem on different spots and order of printing. Any clue how I can print more parts in 1 go, because this doesn't seem to work. Printing them all at once is an option, but I'd rather not to prevent stringing issues and extra travel time etc.

Some sewing oil did the trick. UM Team, you should really add a bottle(like 4 euro's max) to the packages. It just helps SO much! I thought I squared everything like I should and all the belts and pulleys were ok, but the friction was still to high. Some oil helped out so much! I do notice that to keep this extremely low friction I should oil like every 3 days. But even without doing that it still stays way smoother then before

Awesome stuff, I think with the bronze fill the little under extrusion that is showing isn't even that bad. It gives it an authentic touch.

Build it in solidworks, mate it, and simulate it This does require ofcourse a license. Matlab can probably do the same in 2D easily. You can always build one with lego, and call that the simulator.

So many options! I like the survey, but you can take the VTOL option out, that was just an offtopic cool thing I posted Not sure if the idea is open source etc. Also, the Conference only allows registered people in they told me today :(

That is the most likely cause yes

I know Sander, I've tried, and still it hasn't worked yet, I burned my fingers instead