Titus

I'm working with solidworks @ TU Delft, purely functional design Up until now most of it designed for laser cutting and assembling. From now on 3D printable stuff

I came across this funny robot from Adafruit, the Adabot. Most parts are pretty straight forward, but the legs(and hips) are a challenge. What orientation would you use? Hips down, or legs flat on the buildplate? I keep breaking the part when breaking off the supports. Any ideas? EDIT: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367226

:cool: Fan is working like it should now! EDIT: Perhaps We should fork this post(and your two) into a new topic? /offtopic: Thanks for the endcaps idea. I'll pursue that. Also I am going to look at my pulley alignment and the XY blocks, I think there is some friction there too due to the screws. Ideas? As for the printbed, the wood is curved and when I try to level the bed I can't actually move all four points up and down, some only down, others only up... This is not the main problem, but when a print starts, it zeroes, the Z endstop triggers when the tip hits the printbed. But when going to the start after purging the nozzle, it starts like 3 mm above the printbed. Though I can fix this in the start Gcode, I believe it should be fixed on the machine. Ideas?

Mission successful, pins are out, soldered a new one in. Assembling now, will let you guys know. I'm servicing my UM totally, for the first time that I've had time for that since I bought it second handed. So after this I will work on the huge amount of friction while moving the printhead, and the NOT so flat printbed Perhaps I'll open up some more topics along the way. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. I tried the last option already, but I can't really heat 3 pins at the same time. So snipping it is. What happens when you don't have anything in place of the darlington(i.e. I snip but I can't de-/re-solder)

As concluded in multiple topics the always on problem for the fan on the hot end lies with the Darlington(UM1) transistor most of the time.So I got a replacement at the Ulti-evening and now I'm trying to desolder the broken one. But it's giving me a hard time. I've managed to get the bottom pretty much clear, but since there is a via, the top is also soldered. I'm not sure whether to snip the darlington off so I can try to pull each pin out individually and clean up with desolder wick. I'm afraid I won't be able to grab the pins anymore. Any advice?

Cool, free samples? I've known Igus for a long time, they make cool stuff!

I do know you, since you had the only UM2 But the lables yeah, good idea, with name/forum name on it!!!

Woa, in preperation for the 9th season I'm watching season 7 now, and I want to plan a 24h watching session of season 8 NON STOP 24 for 18 hours(due to commercials). I'm kinda afraid of what the emo look will do to her character though.

Well, it would help if peoples avatars were also faces The pulling with the filament and the extra piece of bowden to double your force was very smart Joris!

Also, "hagelslag" is not the best type of chocolate to melt. I'd use "smeltchocola' for chocolate fondue

Managed to pack my UM1 for public transport. On my way from Leiden to utrecht zuilen

Hi! Welcome! It's great to see you building the UM1 If the fan nut continues to give you trouble, you can always print other fan heads, like this one, or the circular ones. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:77107 Printed it in orange PLA, really surprised with the quality.

I'm able to print from SD cards yes Just hoping the chocolate printing doesn't involve real time control of your UM from a computer. Otherwise I guess ProtoSpace has some desktops that I might be able to use. As for transport, I'll have a look, the walk from Utrecht Zuilen is only 1km

I've been wondering that in general, if someone asks you to print a design that was published as open source non commerial, are you allowed to ask for material/energy costs? What about time/effort to get it right? Anyway, /ontopic: what 3Poro mentioned could be interesting: having 3rd parties produce (quality!) spare parts, could make the people happy(cheaper, better availability), and release some pressure on the UM production line. I'm not sure if last is a benefit, since I have no clue what the business strategy is with regards to making and selling parts vs machines.

Awesome! Count me in. I'll try to bring my 'new' printer by public transport, even though it still requires some tweaking, or is there someone else coming from somewhere Leiden/Den Haag/Delft/Rotterdam? Is there a place to sign up, or is a comment here enough? I don't have a laptop though, will that be a problem?

Same problem here. I'll pop the bottom off and get my soldering iron. Is there a way to measure if the transistor is working?

I saw an UM1 with a square chipped out on the 0,0, so the purge would fall into the frame, in an container, next moving it to the right Z height, wiping of the nozzle towards the startpoint, and drawing a nice line. Very cool design!

Drool@ dual extruder VIDEO! VIDEO!

This is actually a very usefull feature in my opinion. It makes sure your hot end is actually full of molten filament before starting to print. It has happened to me multiple times that it started printing without plastic coming out because I just changed the fillament and it hadn't reached the hot end yet. The purge helps you to make sure there is material coming out

Oh really, I didn't know the UM2 didn't add start or end G code. That changes things completely for UM2 users. Adjusting things from the machine end are great, as long as it saves the setting. Making that 0.01mm increments would allow users more control indeed.

@PM_Dude: That was what I was thinking too! On topic, wouldn't it be easy to add a line to the start G code, moving the z axis a little, and zero'ing it again, just like the extruder does before a print?

I had the same problem once, and I was scared because I think I found a heat sink in my room that looked like one from a stepper driver. After moving the head manually back and forth for a couple of times it seemed to work again. Should still check whether the heat sink was from the stepper driver though, didn't have the time until now.

Wow that is actually pretty cool! Could you post some more info on that Zoev89? Pictures of the results and how you did it?

Wait, so it's not starting in the front left corner? That is a good thing, otherwise you will hit your freshly printed things. It should start either right front working to the back or right back working to the front, both going leftwards. If you look at the "tools" menu, are you printing one by one, or all at once?