bob-hepple

Yellow shark 1st layer was printed 60% speed Layer height 150% All other layer setting for first layer left at 100% It's filament size is stipulated in s3d Yes have read temp on the um2 Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings. I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer, I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked. Will strip head later today/tomorrow I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

Yellowshark thanks!! the clicking is the motor slipping during print and also in the priming (startup script) G1 F150 E30 the printer is running now Material white PLA (colourfab) layer height .1200 1800 mm/min outline and in fill speed 55% temp 200 extrusion multiplier 1.0 to your questions when I prime it is manually (move material) print dose not work if I don't do this also looked at the script earlier on in this thread , purging E19 (19mm?) at 200 feed I am purging at 150 and the motor is clicking (when I look its not grinding) fans at 70% I'm printing at moment and just uped temp to 205 fans 70% to try to stop feeder motor clicking (worked) at moment to your question clicking after layer 1, answer no clicking can be heard during this first layer printing, I was thinking it might be to slow Im using iRoberts feeder with yoke of 34mm

3rd print just failed NO cone

forgot to mention one thing when priming, it was Very easy to make feeder motor slip (not grind)

Korneel Taken the Bronzefill out checked the Bowden and pushed filament up through the feeder and through the Ob (making sure it was cleaned first) it passed through them all with a little push at the Ob end. I placed a new .40 nozzle from 3dSolex in. The design http://3dsolex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Photo-01.03.15-22.19.32-300x300.jpg I started to print at 195 and again clicking started I up temp to 200 and clicking stopped (hurrah). I then did another print (without priming) but very little cone came out if at all my start up script s3d is G28 ; Home all axes G1 F3000 X20 Y20 Z20 ; Bring extruder to the front slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 F150 E30 ; purge nozzle with 30mm of filament G1 F1800 X25 Y25 Z10 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 F255 E0.25 ; purge the extruded length 0.25 My ending script is G1 E-5 F2500 ; Retract G1 F2000 Z100 G28 X0 ; home the X-axis M104 S0 ; turn off heaters M140 S0 ; turn off bed M84 ; disable motors so I was working on 25mm (approx.) should have came out my print started at 200 but clicking, again I reduced fans down to 70% and all was fine,, it is the first time I have used these nozzles.. a bit lost now do I use this nozzle and try the Bronzefille again

Korneels Thanks for the prompt reply, I will try later by swapping the material I'll prime the head as above do a print then do another print without the priming sequence and see what happens.. Thanks

Yellow shark Thank you for clarifying the 0% that's was certainly confusing me. The Ptfe coupler is relatively new 3dsolex it also has the i2k insulator on as well as the spacer (Korneels) I will check the coupler exactly what am I looking for ? (Burning deformity.) I will also check the Bowden ? One thing though since I changed to the Ob block and my Ptfe ect when I used to set my prints off I never had to bother priming the head I now advance the material till there is a steady output, then re home head, then start print. But when I advance the material it feels as though it could stick if I'm not carful moving the material. I wondered if the internal profile of the Ptfe or i2k could cause a binding effect. All I know is I was using normal PLA swapped it for Bronze and immediately had issues with feeder slipping and under extrusion. Sorry for the long drawn out description.

Yellowshark yep I thought I was, hence the question. don't really understand where I am going wrong, s3d had the flow at 1.30 this didn't work i use 1.0 / 1.10 for normal PLA which workes. so I upped the temp and flow on the um2 till it closed the layers and looked better this is where I ended up fans full temp 240 flow 200, as I said I know it not right… I presumed 100% is full flow? but whats 0-10% could you explain, sorry!!!

hi chaps Im having a problem it looks like your last comments bear my situation. Im printing bonzfill and usually 210 (labern) uses I started out hear and could not get the print to flow seal ect. Im now printing at 236 and a flow of 220. Is this normal my feeder is clicking at about every 10sec NOT slipping motor slipping I presume because of the build up of pressure in OB. Im using a .40 Noz from 3d solex one of his first. any thought advise please.

Hang on Just found the name of the fans from earlier in this thread, are these the correct Fans they seam incredibly expensive. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0084ZPKX0?colid=QUFZ1TCNP01A&coliid=I3EWAT8XMV4Z7X&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl Thoughts ??

I also hope I don't end up with another Olson Block I already have 1 spare and I also have 35w heater ect. Only want the feeder and shroud,, Question I read somewhere they are using new fans any idea where to get them. also where do you find the files when they are released.

Ditched the Steel nozzle and put in a 3dsolex, one of his first 0.4 (no Marking) in. 215 was to high on my machine with bronz very gloopy reduced temp to 210 much better retraction isn't very good S3d but its live able fans on 60 % object flat so No need to up it. the Feeder is still clicking every now and then.

Ordered 0.3 & 0.35 Love you gun

Labern Thanks I think I will swop the Nozzle and try the brass 0.4 where did you get 0.3 nozzle I'll put the Fans back on at 40% and try again

MM I have a collection of Nozzles and it is confusing and I don't really understand the differences in the profiles.

The print has finished Not Good a lot of scaring from the glob of material collecting on the nozzle. also I laid a brim of 5 lines wide this didn't adhere to the main body where there is a good surface finish theres gaps in the weave you can see it on the second R on the right. this was printed at 200 I also turned up the extrusion to 110%

Hi I eventually got around to trying the 0.50 nozzle from 3d Solex I am using s3d printing around 30mm/s at a temp of 200 but the feeder is clicking (like its putting to much pressure into the Olson Block. also when fans come on at say 40% the print goes to the wall starts going horrible im finding keeping the fans off is best (is that normal for bronzfill) and with steel nozzle. and lastly on the bottom of the nozzle I'm getting significant accumulation of material building up, any ideas why . All advise appreciated. or I went to a longer yoke on iRoberts feeder, to increase pressure on a test piece there were allot of grinding notches in the material on retractions.

ffreak well done a learning curve completed, bt don't worry there will be more coming around the corner.. Well Done.

Yeah I accumulated them some how they won't stay like that.

ffreak as Labern has said the new wires go into the green (on Mine) Terminal Block the board has to be unscrewed as my picture to gain access to the Terminal Block. Unscrew replace with the new wires making sure (as said) you tighten the screw onto the wires not the insulation. My board has screw terminal Laberns has a different type but it aint hard (honest) any problems post a picture if in doubt ask??

No either wire from the heater goes into the screw terminal's

quick question about the upgrade kit when it comes to the pt100 how will i know it is the new one( more accurate) will there be a specific model number / Part Number?? if Im stripping the machine again I may swell fit one.

Dont panic the 35w heater has two wires these are connected to the screw terminal on the PCB Board that is why you have to loosen the board it's not that bad todo I had to do it twice as my Olson Block was Faulty and couldn't get the pt100 back out. Hang in there its worth the effort.

Use your old one as a draw string as per Laberns comment. Be carful though the fans have connectors in line. It's all fun when you get to the circuit board side I ended up stripping tha board out (you don't have any choice) good luck

Yes I agree that an upgrade kit is VERY good news, I look forward to seeing it.