bob-hepple

Martin Understood will sort it Saturday. will PM you Saturday. What version of TinkerGnome are being used I see on GitHub v.16.01 is listed

Trevorjtclarke / Eldrick have thought long and hard about this and I am going to jump down the Bondtech Rout for a few reason really, which I don't want to go rabbiting on about hear, I am ordering over the week end if I get stuck do you mind giving me advise ?? Bob

Not impressed really hear phoned the uk official supplier now sold out won't be in for another few weeks. Really only announced yesterday at 10.am I spoke to an outlet a few days ago who didn't even see it on there listings.

Expensive I see what they are getting at BUT this will leave me with a lot of spare parts that will be junk in a few months, £395.00 in uk Mmmmm

Wow I just found the Kit to pre Order £394.00 I already have 35w heater I already have OB and loads of Nozzles and a head Ache Not sure I want to lash £400.00 quid on a new feeder Going to get Drunk instead and have a good think V P O (work the abbreviations out LOL)

Thanks for the reply I am giving it some serious consideration priced it up was one click from buying if the new kit is not out by end of month I think will jump.

Thanks for the reply could I ask you what your head setup is, reason I am asking I use the 3DSolex Steel coupler, the threads are a little bit on the slack side and wondered if I upgraded to the Bondtech would I get Oozing through the threads.

Eldrick did you use the firmware mod (Tinkernomes) I think, this is the bit that stops me from jumping, Although I have Pre ordered the kit I already have the OB.

Thanks will try it don't think my starting script is as good as it should be.. Thanks

Neotko Coul I try your profile for the UM2

Thanks for all the replies Yes I am usising iRoberts feeder but having problems with under extrusion and the feeder motor clicking I use the OB block and never really got away wth it from original head. I found that I am having to be very careful with the material any type of resistance pulling the material and print fails. Labern eventually rebuilt the head I had problems with, But drastically under extruding, hence my desire to ditch the feeder now. Depending how long it takes for upgrade kit to come out (March) I hope, any longer then I shall opt for Bondtech. Has about enough of this, seems to me that the feeder has alway been the Achilles heel of the UM2.

what's the thoughts on the new feeder system, will it be as powerful as the Bondtech QR3.0 I am struggling with my feeder at moment and I am tempted to try the Bondtech. Which do we think will be the better.

MMMmmm yes I think your right Labern will wait for the upgrade kit. Can do without other problems!!!

eldrick Just been on the Bondteck web sight and looked at the kit for the UM2 don't want to get into downloading firmware, so does the stepper Motor they advertise work as std with the UM2. I'm a bit hacked off with the extruder on the UM2 and was thinking of going down this road, not a total novice how hard is it to fit. and get up and running????

P.s forgot to say I did drill out the hole as you suggested

Labern Thank you for taking the time to have an input to my problem unlike others on the forum,?? I am rebuilding the head throwing the old Ptfe it has deformed and is a very tight fit. I am making a new spacer from Alloy, I have also took the time to modify the New Ptfe in its dimensions and shape. Experimenting with some spares. Will post picture when built (today time allowing) Again thanks

Any Chance of Any Advise Hear Other Than the the height of the Ptfe Spacer ect. for all that have replied so Far I thank you...

Jatman thanks for the reply, The steel coupler and the Ptfe are from 3dsolex, Plus the i2k, which goes inside the Coupler, and the Ptfe sits on top this gives another 1mm Or so in height they are the same as the stock parts Dimensionally, The difference is in the Olson Block and the installation guid on 3d Solex web sight, where you screw the coupler all the way down and then back it off again Half a Turn, Plus Im using the Spacer idea. I am thinking of making a new spacer from alloy, I was even thinking of reducing the height of the Ptfe. But I was waiting for some more help from the Forum before I started.. The shroud is from Laybern have a look below and pick the wright one for you https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud I Use it and its Fab Printed in Nylon with some tape inside

Hi All I had this down in another part of the forum https://ultimaker.com/en/community/7450-simplify3d?page=6#unread which is off thread.. I'm having problems with Feeder Motor slipping not being able to prime the nozzle without motor slipping, and bad quality of prints top layers open and in brass fill totally bad scaring open top weave as Above. have a look below any thoughts welcome This is how it was originally after Olson Block installed This is during the strip down No Materials leaking well clean The distance from Ptfe and steel coupler is 3.68. The Coupler was screwed all way down and backed off half a turn, as per instructions, so the distance from Ptfe and steel coupler can't be changed. this is what there was behind the i2K a bit of crap you can see is this normal below is the Ptfe at the point of where the blade is, there is a ridge, I would say Deformity is this normal, could this be causing my problems.. or do we think this is all OK and my problem is at the feeder end, I have the 34 mm yoke on to stop filament being ground could this be putting to much pressure on the motor causing it to slip. HELP

Ok understood I'll move it else where. Thanks

frederiekpascal is that an original steel coupler or is it a replacement from 3dsolex????? I have striped the head and it was clean on the outside (no leaking from threads But I took the Ptfe out while there is no burning at all there is a slight bulge in the outer profile, it was awkward to picture, i placed a screwdriver blade at the point also I removed the i2K and underneath that, was a small amount of PLA Now the ptfe is a tight fit into the steel coupler and it was fully down, while the hole going through the middle of them all, does not seem deformed, so do we think this is unrelated to my problem, or have I placed to much pressure on the ptfe? if I have, then the spring in yours frederiekpascal would be really heavy, if you have printed with yours it might be worth checking if yours has deformed like mine, and if so does it matter?? Thoughts please do I rebuild it. if so whats the best way of going about it,, the Ptfe I removed is now a very tight fit, Also the distance Korneel was pointing out (3.67) all parts are the same lengths as original wondered if the olson block has a longer thread as I can see thats the only thing that would push everything up.

All Measured the distance 3.67 was going to strip the head last night but storms took power out will strip it today and post. But I see on the above its the same as mine (distance)

Korneel Ptfe and steel coupler from 3dsolex and there is i2k in there I had to shave off some of the tube to cater for i2k yes I thought there was also a lot more gap it is not leaking (I think it's not) I am going to strip it tonight/tomorrow have ordered replacements from 3dsolex there new version, if I'm going to strip the head I may as well replace, also was going to make a new spacer out of alloy (you agree). But the head only goes back together one way how do you think I should account for the extra space. Will measure it

What is the stepper motor like I also have issues like this I am wondering if the motor is losing power just a thought that's rattling around my head, wrong or Wright I only have a few things left to try, and it seems you do too.

Nallath Does that mean if I crank up the pressure on the filament the the motor will skip instead of the grinding the filament