bob-hepple

Thanks for the Reply I am going to a Show in September So einscan might be there, will have a good look then

Ok can we elaborate on cool stuff??? is it easy to set up! are you using the turntable! is the software reliable ????????

Thanks for the replies the einscan at £1,000 is cheap but there latest is treble that £4,000 what about the david scanner has anyone seen that it is German they don't tend to push out rubbish,,

Wow The new Einscan is about £4,000 the David scanner is about £3,000 I am tempted with the einscan would like to see it first before I lagged that type of money out....

Hi to all been looking at scanners again David scanner http://www.david-3d.com/en/ and the einscan http://www.einscan.com/ does anyone have experience with these, Einscan is Chinese so I am a bit concerned about software I suspect software is the key hear,, if that's not good then you've got problems.. forget fuel 3d not interested in that one iMaker store is also selling a scanner Rangevision smart 3D not heard of these at all.. Thoughts Gents and Women

I Agree

Thanks for the replies they are both interesting. I will post a picture.. I made a small gantry with 3 1inch fans to also try and cool the overhang down I will post that at the same time... Thanks

Hi All I am printing a moulding that has quiet a bit of overhang I am finding the heat of the Build Plate it hindering the print I want to Keep the Heat (60d) to help with adhesion but want to shield the over hang, what would be the best shielding I could use I tried foil sandwich with a fan sat on it. Any help appreciated...

To throw my view for what it is worth, yangxiang1029 the problem I have found with parts and machines bought from China, is there is a tendency to take short cuts, and parts that should be accurate are not, and when it comes to electrics cabling is low quality and hap hardly assembled. NOT all the time, but you gamble..

All now have my Bondtech working after a few teething troubles that wasn't down to Bondtech.. I love it !!!!! best thing I bought,, Just did a 6 Hr Print and using the same retract speed in S3d as Chrisw but distance is 5mm noted the motor was very warm. I also do not use that line in my start up script would it be better to reduce the current now to be on a safer footing???. ie M907 E1000 ; motor current

Bad Luck /with the head it was worth a try China though its always a gamble

ultiarjan Thank you!!

Not at all impressive - Official reseller as derived from UM website. in the UK no delivery times at all no idea of how many kits they will get. Very frustrating for the people who want it.

All Thank you all for taking the time in explaining where I'm going wrong, if the pre assure on my Ptfe is not enough do I have to strip the unit right down or can I adjust it without another total strip and clean. I originally set the coupler off the OB 1 mm so I take it I have 1 mm of adjustment?... Chrisw You are correct the flange I talked about is on the outside so my coupler will not go flush So there is done tension there ?? Just not enough? Thanks to you all most appreciated.

Hears a better picture from the Manufacturers Distributors web sight, this shows the flange just tried reducing the layer height and reducing the percentage down to 75% first layer, mega thick then fine from there on. I notice 3D Solex distributor does not sell the Nozzle I am using, I might just swop the nozzle for the other style and try that... But don't want to re level the bed again this month??? on saying that the print is fine bar from layer1

This pic was taken when I had the i2k in there which is 1.7mm thick hence the height of Ptfe In my last rebuild I ditched the i2k and made the alloy spacer.

Yes I am correct if you look at this picture you can see all be it quiet hard the is a flange on the coupler

Chrisw Tha you for your explanation of how the pressure works I will take a close look at the way I have put the head together when and if I strip it to look at the coupler. I am purity sure it has a flange on it. But I will check?

Ok I appreciate the replies If I'm not mistaken AND I Could be there is a flange on the coupler that prevents it going all the way down so to make it go flush I would have to drill the alloy plate out I will check my old pics and see. Befor I strip the head, and will report back?

Ok Got some pics of past and present first layers this is what I have been getting BED FRESHLY LEVELLED this print I started last night the first rim lines if you look close you can see it is starting to get thick this is first layer going down, I stopped the print so could get a better pic settings for this print 3Dsolex Nozzle 0.40 temp 210 layer1 205 layer2 200 layer3 fans ramping up from 40% to 80% on every subsequent layer Layer ht 0.20 print speed 1800 mm/min first layer setting ht 100% Width 100% speed 80% Extrusion Multiplier 0.90 I was at 1.10 with old extruder and I am thinking of going to 0.85 next My first layer is the problem this is finished print front the back note the deformity where it was think I recently installed Bondtech and so doing the bowden tube is new and the connectors I also re built the head 3 weeks ago with new Ptfe and turned my own spacer up I turned the Coupler to give a 1mm exact space before the OB. I do not know the principles of the spacer, i.e. I am under the impression if you turn the coupler it exerts pressure on the Ptfe how does this happen if I turn it the OB block lowers>>>>????? hope this shines some light on a problem that is giving me Grief

Neotko MMM I think there are other things at play I re levelled the bed again and again. will post a picture tomorrow, had this trouble for a while now but has got a lot worse with the bondtech, I presume because the old extruder wasn't pushing as much Just motor clicking back... I am using a nozzle from 3DSolex they call them Jet Nozzles not the same profile as being sold by Ultimaker could this be a problem. Thanks for the Reply

Eldrick how you getting on With TinkerGnomes firmware having a few problems trying to get the Pause Print, and then resume, working. it stops ok, but when I try resume print it is printing in the wrong area.

has or does anyone use S3d Bed Levelling Routine,, I am having some serious issues with the first layer, was bad before I put Bondtech Extruder on just got a hole lot worse now.. After the first layer is laid the prints are fine, but the first layer is Serious messy far to much material being laid down it looks like my bed is way off level but I checked it and checked it.... Any thoughts

Labern/neotko thanks for this will wait till I can get the complete new head and then fit that Thanks

Eldrick thanks for the reply I have my extruder working now with the correct steps and with TinkerGnomes latest firmware. having a few issues with S3D getting the first layer down seems I'm having to reduce the flow was set at 1.10 now down to 1.0 and probably lower.