tinkergnome
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Posts posted by tinkergnome
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@dfrez 'cause you mentioned PEI a few times:
Be aware that the adhesion sheets are not PEI, it's (some kind of) polyester film.
It should be no surprise that it behaves different from PEI...
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I still don't understand where you miss infill?
For the face plate only Cura estimates approx. 20 hours, 50 Minutes in my case - sounds reasonable.
But the whole model sits 0.36mm below the build plate - so it's perhaps different, if you have "drop model to buildplate" enabled in preferences.
A few notes about your model:
- the large bottom area is 2.25mm thick and is printed solid because top and bottom shell thickness are both set to 1.2mm
- the smaller rectangular area on top is 2.75mm thick - sums up to exactly 5.0mm
- i don't know if it is intended, but one of the four counter-bores in the corners is deeper than the others, on another corner the hole is not round
- the model in the first file (without text) has an serious amount of mesh errors (non-connected faces), it seems like Cura can use it anyway, but that's perhaps another reason for abnormal print times
BTW: i strongly doubt that the tiny layer height will have any visible effect on the surface finish of this model. It's a simple flat rectangle after all. You can very well double the layer height and you'll see no difference.
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1 hour ago, fotastisch said:
Is there an option that snaps the parts to the build plate?
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11 hours ago, rhoogenboom said:
Just wondering if it is firmware related.
Sure it is.
I'm sure that MATERIAL.GUID was added for cura connect, but there may be more.
The firmware checks are the same, no matter if the file is compressed or not. You can compress S3D-files with gzip as well, there's no difference in how those are handled.
I remember that i had to add missing lines to the post-processing script in Simplify3D from time to time.
If you compare the header with a file that is generated by the most recent Cura version, you'll see very quick what is missing.
And if you (re-) download the printer definition in S3D (with the configuration wizard), you'll see that there's a lot more stuff in the recent one than in the legacy version (yes - they obviously do update this stuff from time to time...).
If you still have the factory files, rebuilding the gcode should be a matter of seconds. If you really have a need to re-use gcode files from years ago, i would indeed manually add the missing informations to the header.
It's probably no benefit to stuck with old (and potentially buggy) firmware. But it's your choice of course... 🙂 -
The answer depends on how exact do you want to know it.... 😏
The simple way is: compare the header (first few lines of the file) of the "good" file with the non-working ones.... and you will probably see what is missing. At least the material-id is mandatory AFAIK.
If you want to explore more details: save the log files of the printer to the USB stick. You'll find the exact error messages in there.
Quote;START_OF_HEADER
;HEADER_VERSION:0.1
;FLAVOR:Griffin
;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine
;GENERATOR.VERSION:2.6.2
;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2017-07-06
;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Ultimaker 3
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:220
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:13228
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.GUID:938757ed-22ac-4311-ba0e-678005a7042d;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.NAME:AA 0.4
;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4
;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:60
;PRINT.TIME:17552
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:9
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:6
;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:0.27
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:174.577
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:134.979
;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:13.97
;END_OF_HEADER -
First, i hope you know that "all metal" hot-ends are not meant to be used with PLA.
If possible, use it exclusively for PA and PETG (will save you a lot of trouble)....If you really want to bring it to work (at least partly), the passages about retractions and about cooling of the heat-sink are the most important (IMHO). I may be wrong, but I never heard before, that a different printing temperature is needed. 🤷♂️
Take sure, that PLA is never retracted more than a few mm - especially not at the end of the print! (max. 4 or 5 mm)
You have to avoid that softened PLA comes in contact with the heat-break (or any other part that is made of steel) at any cost. Softened PLA (>50C) sticks like crazy to steel.If you switch between PLA and higher temp materials regularly... well... this asks for a whole new bunch of problems.
Simply don't do it, and if you really have to.... take sure that all residues of the previous material are removed from the whole extrusion train before you load PLA into it.My best advice, if nothing helps: read the first sentence again and make a decision... 😏
Good luck!
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Auf dem ersten Bild ist "Extruder 1" eingestellt (als "Extruder für Stützstruktur") und als Muster "ZickZack", auf deinem zweiten Bild ist "Extruder 2" und als Muster "Dreiecke" eingestellt. Meinst Du das?
Das "not supported" als Profil sieht auch verdächtig aus. Aber vielleicht ist "Dreiecke" einfach der Standardwert für den Printcore / Material von Extruder 2 - ist das PVA?
Was passiert, wenn Du für die Stützstruktur "Extruder 2" auswählst und anschliessend das Muster wieder auf "ZickZack" änderst? Oder geht das nicht?
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Well, at first this needs a printer that supports it ("duplication mode" or whatever it is called by the manufacturer). This applies to both, the hardware and the firmware of the printer.
Given such a printer - it usually comes with a slicing software that can produce gcode for this mode.
There's no "standard" for gcode (AFAIK) - it always depends on the implementation of the manufacturer. So - you have to take a look at the gcode file that is generated by the provided software - or you can simply ask the particular manufacturer.
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23 minutes ago, panhalt said:
How to use the Solex when Cura doesn't seem to want me to.
The printer definition of Cura uses "variants" (printcore settings in this case) and "quality" presets which are provided for all combinations of "variant" and supported materials.
If either the "variant" for your specific printcore or the dedicated quality setting for the material is missing, Cura will throw a warning (or don't slice at all - dunno).
I don't know if 3DSolex provides matching Cura configurations (or printer definitions) for their print cores.
Maybe it's worth to ask them for help?🤷♂️
If creating your own "variant" is too difficult, maybe it's possible to define a custom printer instead?
This would at least allow to use the standard profiles for "fine" and "fast" and so on...
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1 hour ago, Birk said:
Kommt das Orginalboard mit 2 Filamenten klar? Ein Steckplatz is ja noch frei für einen Motoranschluss.
Wenn es noch die ältere Elektronik ist, wo alle 5 Stepper-Treiber bestückt sind, können auch 5 Motoren angesteuert werden
(falls das die Frage war...?)
1 hour ago, Birk said:Ich würde gern 2 Filamenten über einen y-Splitter in eine Düse machen(nicht zur gleichen Zeit)
Das läuft darauf hinaus, das es nur eine Düse (Heizung und Temperatursensor) gibt, aber zwei Feeder. Mir ist keine UM2-Firmware bekannt, die so konfiguriert ist. Wenn Google auch niemanden findet, der das schon gemacht hat, müsstest Du zuerst mal eine passende Firmware "bauen".
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Assembly looks good in my eyes, but the screw is too far screwed in.
Remember that that you have to "unscrew" it to increase the tension - screw counter clockwise until the screw-head touches the inner wall of the housing and then a bit farther.
You'll clearly see how it works, if you do so.BTW: which instructions are you referring to?
The pictures and instructions from fbrc8 are very accurate IMHO.
https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004264626-Feeder-Reassembly-UM2-UM3-
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I guess it would look exactly the same with retractions turned off (you can try it).
Actually it looks like retractions do not work on your printer.
CR-10 has an extruder with bowden tube, right? In this case: take sure that the bowden does not move - it has to be steadily fixed on both ends (feeder and extruder). The bowden tube shall never move (in longitudinal direction) - only the filament inside.
And be aware that retraction speed (or more generally: speed for each axis) is usually limited by the firmware. In most cases it is unnecessary to try crazy high speeds, because the printer will never reach it.
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if you don't know this video yet, it may give you some more ideas (or at least it proves that a clean print is possible on Creality printers).
Slicer profiles are linked in the video description:
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1 hour ago, kompetenz-pro said:
I have been trying for hours in vain to trigger a PID autotune with my Ultimaker 3
just out of curiosity..... why?
All printcores should come fully calibrated.
I strongly doubt that recent Ultimaker models support gcode M303 at all.
Have you found it somewhere (in the documentation)?
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Tja, es gibt mit Sicherheit genügend "Kaffeedamen", die jedesmal den Hersteller verklagen, wenn sie sich die Finger verbrennen... (die Geräte werden schließlich weltweit vertrieben...)
...und anderswo fühlt man sich halt von solchen Sachen eher bevormundet.
Nicht schwer zu erraten, was der Hersteller davon lieber in Kauf nimmt.
Zum Basteln (und Finger verbrennen) gibt es noch genügend andere Gelegenheiten.
So sind die globalisierten Zeiten... 🙂
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2 hours ago, ACCSisko said:
Aha, deshalb also, ich dachte der Wert wäre etwas übertrieben, aber ich werds beim nächsten Druck mal probieren.
Also könnt ich jetzt einfach die Werte 20mm Retract und 160mm Extrude verwenden?
Naja, 160mm³ ist schon wieder ganz schön viel, das gibt dann wahrscheinlich einen sichtbaren "Klecks" beim Fortsetzen?
Kann aber je nach Material natürlich sinnvoll sein (z.B: wenn vorher beim Aufheizen etwas "gesabbert" wird... 🙂)
Und soweit ich weiß, muss der Wert für "Retraction" genau genommen auch in Volumen umgerechnet werden.
Das ist in diesem Fall nicht so wichtig, weil Du sowieso das Material wechselst.
Prinzipiell würde ich aber "Retraction" und "Extrude Amount" immer auf (ungefähr) den gleichen Wert setzen, dann funktioniert es auch noch, wenn das Material nicht gewechselt wird.
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Auch schön, hatten wir lange nicht... 😛
Mal vorausgesetzt, es wird der standardmäßige GCode-Flavor "Ultimaker" verwendet..., dann ist der Wert in Kubikmillimeter anzugeben.
Der passende Wert steht praktischerweise gleich im Tooltip:
Alle Extruder-Koordinaten werden in diesem Modus als Volumen interpretiert.
Die empfohlenen 128mm³ errechnen sich aus dem (standardmäßigen) 20mm Retract, der beim Materialwechsel ausgeführt wird und dem (standardmäßigen) Filamentdurchmesser 2,85mm.
Wenn eins von beidem bei Dir abweicht, musst Du den Wert halt noch anpassen.
Viel Erfolg!
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1 hour ago, MironT said:
What is going wrong here?
in short:
"Ultimaker" gcode flavor does work only for prints from sd-card.
If you want to print via USB - change "GCode flavor" to "Marlin" (machine settings in Cura)
important difference:
Material settings on the printer (temperatures and retraction settings) are not longer used. Everything has to be configured in Cura.
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6 minutes ago, Smithy said:
ob du dort die Pause erkennst bin ich mir nicht sicher
Die "Nachbearbeitung" findet erst nach dem Speichern der gcode-Datei statt. (*)
Also einfach mal (unten rechts) den gcode als Datei speichern. Es müsste dann in der Datei vor dem ausgewählten Layer die folgende Zeile eingefügt worden sein (einfach mit einem Texteditor danach suchen):
M0 ; Do the actual pause
Alle anderen Parameter, die man für das Skript angeben kann, werden nicht benutzt, wenn es für Ultimaker 3, S3 oder S5 ausgeführt wird. Die "Parkposition" und alles andere ist in der Firmware festgelegt, wird vom Drucker automatisch ausgeführt und kann vom Benutzer nicht beeinflusst werden.
Die Zeile "M0" ist das einzige, was der Drucker für die Pause braucht und auch das einzige, was vom Skript eingefügt wird (abgesehen von ein paar Kommentaren, die aber eh' vom Drucker ignoriert werden).
Man kann die gcode-Daei auch wieder in Cura laden, in der Vorschau ansehen und per Netzwerk zum Drucker schicken. Zusätzliche "blaue Linien" sind aber aus den genannten Gründen nicht zu sehen und auch nicht zu erwarten.
(*) es gab auch mal das Problem, das die Nachbearbeitung beim direkten "Drucken über Netzwerk" nicht ausgeführt wurde, ich weiß aber nicht, ob das immer noch so ist.
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1 hour ago, mangy_dog said:
its a duet3d based corexy machine.
In this case i would rather create appropriate tool change files for RepRapFirmware - to make the parking method completely independent from any slicer or its settings.
IMHO this is the correct place to handle those tasks. Do it once for the machine and you'll never need to think about it again.
And it's very well documented:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCartesianPrinter#Section_Tool_change_files
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13 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:
Du kannst dafür auch mal das alte Legacy Cura versuchen, letzte Version davon war Cura_15.04.6.
https://software.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-15.04.06.exe
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5 hours ago, mangy_dog said:
So if there is already a setting, where is the setting to park the hot ends away from the model while the new nozzle gets heated up
I'm no Cura expert, but there are start- and end-scripts for each extruder in the machine settings. Those are executed on each switch to a different extruder. You can use any gcode command in these scripts that is supported by your printer.
For Ultimaker printers this task is handled by the firmware (no script needed), so i assume you use a printer definition that is contributed by a third party? Or is it a self-construction?
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15 hours ago, Splendid_Lt said:
Side note, you would think they would have made that small gear a bit fatter so it can't be pushed in and stop working
They did. It seems like you have a very early model.
For later produced units the spur gear was modified (Part 1969-F):
Ultimaker doesn't sell the gears separately, but you could print a small spacer and put in behind the gear.
De-grease the motor axis before reattaching and add a drop of superglue to hold it in place.
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15 hours ago, twlum said:
Would they need to add each printer individually with its own IP address?
Yes, if you want to send a specific job to a specific printer, this approach seems to be the only way possible from now on.
Or stay with the previous Cura version.
UM2+ feeder gear keeps slipping off
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
If i remember right, this was a common problem for the first batches of UM2+ feeders.
The shape of the gear wheel and the manufacturing process was changed later. Since then - only the whole stepper motor with the gear wheel already assembled on the motor shaft is available as a spare part (on request).
Even if the originally used gear wheel would be available, it would come loose again after a while.
You can try to glue it in place with a drop of epoxy (or buy the longer version from the link above first).
I'm not sure how long it will work, but it's worth a try.