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tinkergnome

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Posts posted by tinkergnome

  1. 12 hours ago, ManuHC said:

    I have modified the extruder's steps for now ... and it's already changing

     

    After installing the "plus" firmware on a (formerly) UM2, it should reset everything to the default ("plus"-) settings. Relevant changes are the steps/mm and the rotation direction of the extruder stepper motor. Both should be already correct after the firmware update.

     

    I wonder, why it was necessary to do this manually in your case? Did you do something different?

    Or are you still using the old ("non-plus") firmware?

     

  2. On 12/16/2019 at 9:40 AM, gandy said:

    the first layer was of a consistent 0.16 mm height instead of the 0.2 mm specified in Cura

     

    Active leveling is intended to "squeeze" the material for the first layer on the buildplate a bit (to ensure a better adhesion).

    This behavior is normal and calibrating is neither possible nor planned (AFAIK).

    BTW: Z-Offset plugin works fine if your requirements are different. 🙂

  3. 2 hours ago, Oliveros said:

    In terms of releasing the print, I was thinking of just putting oil on the surfaces of the mold, that way it won't stick, is that a bad idea?

     

    It's not needed IMHO, silicone does not stick to PLA (or any other plastic) - no need for any release agent.

     

  4. 17 minutes ago, ozhawk said:

    Thanks for that information, based on your comments, this sounds like its something that Cura generates during the slicing process.

     

    Nope, it's in your start- / end-scripts, {travel_speed} seems not to be a valid symbol for Cura.

     

    The snippets are labeled with:

    "; Ender 5 Custom Start G-code"

    "; Ender 5 Custom End G-code"

    where does this come from? 🤷‍♂️

     

    Anyway: you can edit those things in the Cura machine settings.

     

  5. 30 minutes ago, Pirelli said:

    Ich bin der Meinung, das zumindest der Prozessor / G-Code für, sagen wir 1 Min, gepuffert sein sollte, damit der Druck bei Netzrückkehr manuell oder Automatisch weiterläuft .....

     

    Da bin ich irgendwie anderer Meinung... Die Geräte werden ja weltweit vertrieben, und das wäre ein Feature, das alle Käufer mitbezahlen müssten.

    Eine externe USV braucht sich hingegen nur anschaffen, wer es auch wirklich braucht.

     

    Nur aus Neugier: Kannst Du kurz erklären, was "Netzwischer" sind, sowas scheint es hier in der Gegend nicht zu geben...(Europa ist groß...)?

     

  6. 3 hours ago, mclareniak said:

    I still have to find out why he is not pushing at 50 but at 100.

     

    Well, Marlin firmware let you change the printing speed (feed rate) as a percentage value.

    That means, you are printing with 100% of 50mm/s (if the displays shows 100).

     

    If you change it during a print, be aware that the feedrate percentage applies to all moves in all axes.

  7. 7 hours ago, HaryPlotter said:

    I saw that something is creating a file (I left it here for you as a .log-File).

     

    That's only the python script in a binary form, google found this link:

    https://indianpythonista.wordpress.com/2018/01/05/demystifying-pyc-files/

     

    Only user and password ("id" and "key") are needed for authorization. Those are currently stored in a *.data file in the same directory (and loaded in the function "initAPI").

    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, HaryPlotter said:

    So for example if I run a print and I want to pause it. I ´  ll go into the command mode (CMD) and I start the pausing python-file throughout python and it should first ask me to authorise this and then pause the printer. Is this right?

     

    Yep.

    And if the *.py extension is associated with python.exe (which is usually the case on Windows) - a double click on the pause script should be sufficient (that's how i switch the lights on and off).

     

    Good luck!

     

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, HaryPlotter said:

    The editor did put the programme in only one line, which makes the overwiev very nasty. Is there a better way to copy the lines the way I see them in the link into a pyhton program?

     

    A (the) crucial point with the Python language is that is relies on correct indentations. I'll add the (slightly modified) original script below.

    GET, PUT and POST are not part of python - those things are related to the http protocol (AFAIK).

    I'm nearly clueless too, most of the time i only combine parts that i found somewhere. 🙂

     

    Authorization is only needed once - the printer will ask for confirmation (the same as during the first connection from Cura). You can use the confirmed credentials without further inquiry from this point on.

     

    Here is a working example (put all scripts in the same directory).

    "UM3_API.py" contains the main class from @Daid.

    All other scripts are short examples.

    The credentials are stored in a *.data file and re-used if available.

     

    um3_api.zip

    • Like 1
  10. 5 hours ago, HaryPlotter said:

    1. The api asks me an authorisation.

    ...

    So I tried to find out, what command this button triggers (see screenshot) but still those command lead to nowhere.

     

    It doesn't lead to nowhere, it just needs a proper authorization (like all PUT and POST commands), that's all.

     

    Some explanations about authorization (why and how) from the developer, in the link below.
     

    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15604-inside-the-ultimaker-3-day-3-remote-access-part-2/

     

    ...and a second link about the correct syntax for the rest of the curl command:

     

    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21062-api-print_jobstate-error-code-400/?do=findComment&comment=196861

     

     

    Once you have an id/key combination, add the digest authorization to the (corrected) curl command line

    curl -X PUT --digest --user YOUR_ID:YOUR_KEY ...

    ...and i guess you want to store id/key somewhere to use it for subsequent calls.

    The Python script from the first link does this for you, but it's a bit crumbled since the last forum migration (as well as the links to other parts of the "Inside..." serie). Since you don't want to use Python anyway, i guess this part is not that important for you?

     

  11. 1 hour ago, Smithy said:

    Den Startcode brauchst du nur damit er am Anfang nach links vorne fährt, dort ein bisschen Material extruded und dann mit dem Druck anfängt.

     

    @Smithy  genau das ist in der Cura-Druckerdefinition standardmäßig schon als Start-Skript mit drin. Es wird nur für "Ulti-Gcode" ausgeblendet. Das Start-Skript erscheint also "automatisch", sobald man auf "Marlin" umstellt.

     

    Fein-Tuning kann man natürlich immer betreiben, und es kann sein, das es in früheren Cura-Versionen anders war. Aber heutzutage muss man dafür nichts mehr manuell einfügen.

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  12. 1 hour ago, Smithy said:

    Am Drucker selbst musst du nichts einstellen.

     

    räusper...

    ... es sei denn, es ist ein Ultimaker 2 - dort werden standardmäßig (*) alle Materialeinstellungen am Drucker vorgenommen...

     

    und Du musst:

    2 hours ago, Pirelli said:

    noch zusätzlich jetzt am Ulti noch entsprechende Einstellungen vornehmen

     

    @Pirelli UM2+ wenn ich deine vorherigen Fragen betrachte....?

     

    (*) in Cura in den "Machine Settings" den "G-code flavor" auf "Marlin" umstellen, dann stimmen die Aussagen von oben wieder.

     

    gcode_flavor.thumb.png.63adcfc739fa0149d3c2358e7db84393.png

    • Like 1
  13. 3 hours ago, federicoraf said:

    Ein anderes mechanisches Teil mit einer Außenseite von 50mm ist 52.5mm geworden.

     

    😲 das sind 5%? Das hört sich für mich so an, als wäre etwas ernsthaft falsch/beschädigt.

    Bei einem nagelneuen Gerät würde ich da nicht an irgendwelchen Internas editieren.

     

    3 hours ago, federicoraf said:

    Wenn etwas schief passiert, kann ich theoretisch die originale Firmware per usb neulich installieren, richtig?

     

    Übrigens: nein - wenn Du Pech hast, startet der Drucker nicht mehr, dann gibt es auch kein Menü mehr, wo man vom USB-Stick neue Firmware laden kann. Spätestens dann ist es ein Fall für den Service-Techniker.

    Die Abdeckung im Boden darf man als Endbenutzer nicht öffnen (jedenfalls nicht ohne Garantieverlust...)

     

    Ok, mit etwas Glück ist der Developer-Modus noch aktiv und der ssh-Service startet noch... Dann kannst Du dich weiterhin per shh einloggen und die Änderungen wieder rückgängig machen. Ein Backup von jeder geänderten Datei ist also sehr hilfreich...

     

    Noch ein Vorschlag:

    Als Windows-Benutzer ist es sehr viel einfacher, sich mit WinSCP zu verbinden. Dann hat man eine Explorer-ähnliche Ansicht und kann Textdateien auch (fast) wie gewohnt bearbeiten und vor allem: vorher an einen sicheren Platz kopieren.

     

    Die Dateien unter /usr/share/griffin würde ich trotzdem nicht ändern, denn das müsste nach jedem Firmware-Update erneut gemacht werden (wie @Smithy schon gesagt hat).

    Es gibt aber sogeannte "override files" für die "machine settings". Die kann man anlegen in /var/lib/griffin/machines

    dort bleibt es erhalten.

    Siehe: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16154-ultimaker-3-testing-firmware-3490/?do=findComment&comment=165196

     

    Das würde funktionieren, aber trotzdem.... bei einem nagelneuen Gerät... ich weiß nich... 🤷‍♂️

     

     

  14. 4 hours ago, bob-hepple said:

    version 19.03 is it worth upgrading to this

     

    probably not... 🙂 most of the differences are only "adopted" code refactoring that Ultimaker did last year.

    Functional changes are marginal (if any).

    Anyway - you'll not lose any settings if you install 19.03 over 17.09.

     

    4 hours ago, bob-hepple said:

    I changed as a test to X111.00 Y87.00 which might of helped, or am I just kidding myself?

     

    Well, the contemplated wiper never made it to a reliable working state, that means the position only defines the x/y coordinate, where the nozzle goes to (or "parks", if it needs some time to re-heat after a tool change).

     

    If it works better for your special case - why not?

     

    Personally i would rather manually edit the gcode file, 'cause i would not like to change the setting on the printer for each particular model.

    But i think, every approach that makes a print better is allowed... 🙂

     

    Good luck!

  15. Cura always adds a (superfluous) move to the last x/y position of the previous extruder. You can't see it in gcode preview, because it's the exact same position where the previous move ended - but it's definitely in the gcode file.

    In former versions of Cura this was the case on every tool change - so i appreciate it as an improvement that it only happens on the first layer... 😊

     

    One could probably get rid of it with a post-processing script (like in the good ol' days...), but this needs someone who knows how Cura internally works nowadays... 🤷‍♂️

  16. 15 hours ago, Allrounder said:

    Im Menü am Drucker, wo man sonst die Achsen manuell verfährt, einfach um 0.2mm (sprich 1. Layerhöhe). Ich habe kein Ultimake, kann nicht immer genau sagen, wie ihr euren Druck bedient.

     

    Alles klar - so eine manuelle Funktion gibt es nicht am Ultimaker 3 -

    ich hab also nix verpasst... 🙂

     

  17. 7 minutes ago, ksor said:

    I had to print a file with this G-code in it:

    M502
    M500
    M501

     

    then do a manual and an automatic levelling - WHY - I don't know - but it worked !

     

     

    So, essentially you performed a factory reset on the printer - and now it's working again?

    That means it was completely unrelated to the Cura update? Phew -  that's life! 🙂

     

    Thanks for reporting back!

     

     

  18. On 10/13/2019 at 10:01 AM, akke said:

    So I wonder:  Is the UM3E still applying automatic bed correction when level frequency is set to "Never" (from a previous probe).

    If so, can this be disabled? So I can still get it printed without relying on automatic leveling to function properly.

     

    Step 1: set frequency to "Never"

    Step 2: do a manual leveling

     

    -> active leveling is now disabled

     

    hope that helps!

     

  19. 5 hours ago, Allrounder said:

    manuell den Abstand richtig levlen dann per Menü 0.2mm, wenn ihr mit 0.2mm Layerhöhe druckt sonst 0.3mm per Hand die Z-Achse senken

     

    Ich fürchte, jetzt steh' ich grad auf'm Schlauch...

    In welchem Menü kann man die Z-Achse um 0.2mm senken...?

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