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tinkergnome

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    Filament nach Druckende zurückziehen

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    8 hours ago, Schweineschnaeuzchen said:

    @curadura, was hast Du für deinen Drucker bzw. welche Firmware

     

    Google sagt: " ANYCUBIC I3 MEGA source code V1.1.1, based on marlin RC8 1.1.0. " - könnte klappen

     

    8 hours ago, Schweineschnaeuzchen said:

    Hast Du einen Tip, wie man die Extruder-Beschleunigung auslesen kann ?

     

    Naja, wenn es im Druckermenü nicht zu finden ist, hilft nur: über USB (serielle Konsole) verbinden und die gespeicherten Werte anzeigen lassen. Geht z.B. mit S3D oder Octoprint oder Pronterface

     

    Zur Sicherheit zuerst mit "M501" die gespeicherten Werte laden. Mit "M503" werden anschließend alle Einstellungen aufgelistet.

    Interessant ist in diesem Fall, was bei M204 ausgegeben wird - diese Zeile setzt man dann am Ende einfach wieder ein.

     

    Die zugehörige Ausgabe im Terminal-Fenster könnte z.B. so aussehen: 

    [...]
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel>
echo:  M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00
[...]

     

    Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Sounds weird...

    If you're lucky, this are only some corrupted values in the EEPROM. You can try the following:

    1. finish the "first run wizard" with the normal tinker firmware (if necessary)
    2. install the Mark2-firmware, but don't do a factory reset afterwards
    3. instead: check the preferences manually, esp. the print area and the axis steps/mm (basically: check all sub-menus in "Advanced -> Preferences" for conspicuous values

    Filament nach Druckende zurückziehen

    in Deutsch

    Posted

    F ist die "feedrate" (also die Geschwindigkeit) in mm/minute, siehe hier

     

    Wie Nicolinux schon geschrieben hat wird es aber schwierig, richtige "cold pulls" mit dem Feeder zu machen. Der Stepper-Motor hat dafür vermutlich genug Drehmoment, aber das Transport-Rad nicht genug "Grip".

    Aber wenn die Temperatur nicht zu niedrig gewählt wird, könnte es gehen.

     

    Ob der Drucker allerdings auf das Herunterkühlen warten kann, hängt zusätzlich von der Firmware ab. Vermutlich ist Marlin installiert, aber welche Version? Bei älteren Versionen war das ein Feature, das beim Kompilieren der Firmware festgelegt wurde. Bei neueren Marlin-Versionen kann das erreicht werden, indem statt "S" der Parameter "R" verwendet wird (das hab ich aber nur aus der Doku).

     

    Zusätzlich würde ich empfehlen, während des Retracts, die Beschleunigung der E-Achse zu reduzieren (so, wie es die Ultimakers machen), dann wird die Bewegung nicht zu abrupt. Passende Werte dafür müsstest Du allerdings ausprobieren. Und außerdem müsstest Du anschließend wieder den Standardwert einstellen (den ich aber für Deinen Drucker auch nicht weiß...). Evtl. kann man den Standardwert im Druckermenü irgendwo ablesen.

     

    Zusammenfassung: probieren könntest Du so etwas ähnliches

    (ob es funktionieren kann, hängt - wie gesagt - von der Firmware ab...):

      

    M109 R110        ;auf 110C warten
M204 R50         ;Beschleunigung fuer Retracts reduzieren
M302 S0          ;"kalte" Extrusion zulassen
M83              ;Extruder relative mode
G0 E-80.0 F6000  ;80mm retract
M82              ;Extruder absolute mode
M302 S170        ;"kalte" Extrusion wieder abschalten
M204 R1000       ;Standard-Beschleunigung wiederherstellen
M104 S0          ;extruder heater off

    (am Besten am Ende vom Skript, direkt vor dem "M84")

     

    Viel Erfolg!

     

    UM2 Stops printing after several hours.

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    2 hours ago, cryptie said:

    The scroll wheel is 100% useless while printing.

     

    The first version with the USB printing screen was 16.03.1 - you can try this one.

    Or use the newest version again, try to reduce the value for the total power budget in steps of 10 and re-test (it's just a try).

    ...and just to be sure: check the terminal output from Octoprint for unusual things while you're testing.

     

    Factory reset is only necessary if you switch back and forth between the standard and the tinker firmware.

    Bed lowering when print finishes and/or firmware update.

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Great, we are getting closer...

    The firmware uses the normal G28 command (home all axis) at the end of a print - with one exception:

    If the current printing height is near the maximum height, it homes X/Y first to move the head out of the way (because the buildplate is already near the bottom).

    For all prints that are not that tall, you can use the simple "G28" instead. Changed end script:

     

    End:

     

    M104 S0 ;extruder heater off

    M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)

    G91 ;relative positioning

    G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure

    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more

    ;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way

    G28; home all axis

    M84 ;steppers off

    G90 ;absolute positioning

    ;Version _2.6 of the firmware can abort the print too early if the file ends

    ;too soon. However if the file hasn't ended yet because there are comments at

    ;the end of the file, it won't abort yet. Therefore we have to put at least 512

    ;bytes at the end of the g-code so that the file is not yet finished by the

    ;time that the motion planner gets flushed. With firmware version _3.3 this

    ;should be fixed, so this comment wouldn't be necessary any more. Now we have

    ;to pad this text to make precisely 512 bytes.

    Bed lowering when print finishes and/or firmware update.

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    19 hours ago, Lukephos said:

    This does still leave the problem of the bed not dropping though.

     

    This is indeed a task of the firmware, but only for prints from sd-card. For prints via USB the print server is in charge of it (or it has to be added to the gcode script). That's why i asked...

    • Are the files sliced with Cura (which version, which "GCode-flavor")?
    • Is there a difference in the behavior between prints from sd-card or USB?
    • How does your start-/ end script look like?

    error how can i fix

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    20 hours ago, dykwcpu said:

    hello

    i understand the problem from move and linear but how can i fix this problem and Is it a mistake of installation or programming

     

    Where does your gcode-snippet come from (it looks weird)? Is this the start script from Cura or something completely different?

    In case of Cura: AFAIK Cura does not have a printer profile for anycubic kossel - how have you configured the printer?

    Bed lowering when print finishes and/or firmware update.

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    @Lukephos - you used the tag "UM2+" - the version number and -date should be displayed on the printer via:

    "Maintenance -> Advanced -> Version"

     

    I assume you start all prints from the sd-card and have not plugged in an USB cable during normal operations?

     

    Regarding the connection problems: i would try a different USB-cable first and - if you have a chance - a different computer.

     

    Or: try the "old" Cura 15.04 for firmware updates - you can select a specific COM-port with this version. Once you have configured the printer, choose "Machine -> Install Custom firmware" and load the appropriate hex-file from the newer Cura installation.

     

    Good luck!

    Extrusion is different between usb and sd card

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    11 hours ago, niacobelli said:

    Anyone have any idea why printing over usb is so different than printing off the sd card?

     

    Hi Nicholas,

     

    i can imagine three possible reasons:

    • the used gcode files are different
    • you try to print via USB with gcode flavor "Ultimaker" (instead of "Marlin")
    • some tools for USB-printing add their own start scripts / commands

    Can you rule out these possibilities?

    More information during print

    in Firmware

    Posted

    2 hours ago, chiz said:

    the moment I reboot from v17.10.1 I'm immediately taken to default reset routine

     

    What is this? The "first run wizard"? or something else?

     

    And yes: re-installing the standard firmware destroys the print area settings... ?

    A factory reset with the standard firmware is useless in this case.

     

    My suggestion: re-install the standard firmware once more and complete the "first run wizard" this time - that's important.

    After that you can install the tinker firmware and it should start without the need to run the "first steps" again.

    Then go to "Preferences -> Print area" and correct the values before you do anything else.

    X 0- 230

    Y 0-225

    Z 225 (or 325 for UM2+extended)

     

    If in doubt, do the factory reset again, but this time with the tinker firmware. This should do the trick.

     

    ultimaker 2+ extended max temperature

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    21 hours ago, Raaseri said:

    I use tinker firmware atm, but seems like there is no way change max temp. 

     

    The pre-compiled hex-files are allowing up to 300°C as nozzle temperature.

    If you import a MATERIAL.TXT file with higher nozzle temperature,  this becomes the new maximum. Use it at your own risk...

    Steps/mm and rotation direction for all axis can be adjusted on the printer (Advanced -> Preferences -> Motion settings)

     

    If you still have a need to compile it yourself, have a look at the "cookbook" that @gr5 made

    (including links to the source repositories at GitHub):

    How to build Marlin the way tinkerghome and Ultimaker do it if you have windows

    Cura fails to slice properly when loading more than one part?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    I think the strange thing is that 3DLabprint takes your money for 3D-models that are broken, or better: not printable out of the box.

     

    The models are not manifold, have overlapping volumes or not connected faces or other annoying defects.

    If you read some articles in the 3DLabprint forum: basically they rely on the repairing (black magic) capabilities of specific slicer versions to make their models printable...

     

    But as long as no one complains, we will see these questions here over and over again...

     

    I would load the models in (e.g.) Meshmixer and check it (Analysis -> Inspector). The result could be interesting.

    • Like 1

    Managing multiple printers in a lab environment

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    2 hours ago, kerog said:

    Thanks, but I seem to be clueless.  I went and created a repo on GitHub: kerog777/cura, and pushed my changes to it.  But when I try to do a pull request there I still get rejected.  I must be missing something.  Is there something I can do to get a more verbose response that would aid in diagnosis of exactly what I'm doing wrong?

     

    Your own repository is probably not based on the original one, easy solution: make a "Fork" first.

     

    A working sequence would be:

    • create a fork of the original repository
    • create a new branch in your (forked) repository
    • make all changes in your branch
    • commit and push all your changes to GitHub
    • create a pull request (select the new branch first)

    For more information choose "github fork pull request" as search terms:

     

    Here is an article with lots of explanations and comments: GitHub Standard Fork & Pull Request Workflow

     

    A shorter article with examples on the command line: Forking a GitHub Repository and Using Pull Requests

     

    And here i found a video with all steps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1I3HF4YWEw

     

     

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