RudydG
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3D Prints
Everything posted by RudydG
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Did you placed all the magnets (they are always pairs) in the same direction? It was not stated in the build instructions, but my believe is that you can actualy lose some pulling force when they are not all in the same North south directions. I tried how much force i needed to seperate the 2 heads in the upper right corner, and to be honest, the force to undo is not big, so i can imagine, that if the magnets are just a little weaker, you can get in trouble. Did you try unloading the filament and do a "dry run" These are the magnets i bought: https://www.magnetexpert.com/circular-disc-rod-magnets-c34/6mm-dia-x-3mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet-0-9kg-pull-p3566 Beatifull packed in a plastic box, with safety instructions. All indications of a quality product.
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Here. (Sorry for the awkward angle. We are moving in a few days and we have boxes with address in the background so I had to rotate the printer preventing the boxes to in the video.) And here's how I mounted the adjustable feeder holder. I even trimmed the bottom screw portion to maximize the angle. Will probably get back with fixing this issue once we are done with the relocation. Sadly, after I have the Mark2 mod done, I now need to knock down the printer for the move. Are you sure the magnets are strong enough? seems to me they are not. i have to pull real hard to seperate them. pulling force of 0.9 kg is what is advised. did you try feeding from another direction? so that the naturely bend from the spool is in the same direction as the bend in the bowden tube?
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Regarding the printmaterial to use in the critical parts, i experienced: Polymaker PLA is very good in tolerances, but not temperature stable, i got troubles after a long print (60hrs), the magnets in the coupler came out of their place. Polymaker Polymax, is a better material imho, but there i had to re-adjust some dimensions in the drawings to get 100% play free coupling. (succeeded in this) The dimensions i adjusted are the following: -Coupler: lower magnet holder, reduced the slot where the magnets goes in with 0.1mm (was 6.00, is now 5.90) No play anymore;-) -Parts you glue on the coupler, i reduced the holes to 3mm diameter, and added 0.25mm in the part with the hole in it (...) so there is less play in this part also. And ofcourse, i ordered the greentec filament to be safe for the future ;-) I must admid that i am a picky guy, the dual extruder parts that i print at this moment are already very nice. Maybe the tolerances i want to archieve are not neccesary, but i want it just to be good! At the same time my S3D UM mk2 profile seems to get better and better.
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Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ??? At this moment in am re-printing the parts with Polymax. Altered some dimensions to reduce play in the bottom magnet slot. Also reduced the 2 holes in the angled pieces to be glued on the coupling, and added 0.25mm in the thickness to get a tighter fit on the existing head.
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Thanks, will source that! Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files? Many thanks! About the files, all files are also in .stp format in the github folder. You can easily modify, or save separate STL's from them using free software like fusion360 or Design spark mechanical. read here how to unlock steps for editing in DSM; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816 Check the scale after importing the .stp I noticed in spaceclaim I have to scale them down a factor 10. Perfect! works! Have to scale down like you said.
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Thanks, will source that! Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files? Many thanks!
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-Play in coupling I Printed everything in Polymaker PLA, that was not temp stable enough. The i reprinted in Polymaker Polymax, but that material seems to be nog hard enough; the coupling can flex a little bit. Also, with both systems, i have a tiny amount of play between the 2 parts, enough to make my second head calibration varying between 0 and 3 or -3. The fact that the second rol pla is pulling hard on the bowden tube and on the head doesnt help either. Suggestions?
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I had this power issue, while experimenting with S3D profiles. I started with the UM3 settings, altered them to the M2, and then i got this weird issue (printer reboots sometimes) At this moment i think i have a stable environement. ;-) With Cura this never happened.
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I'm working on a profile for the mark2 too. I noticed the time to heat from 160/80 degrees, I was thinking about insert in toolchange script tab something like this: T[new_tool] {IF NEWTOOL=1} M104 S175 T0 ; cool old tool {IF NEWTOOL=1} M109 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ; stabilize new tool {IF NEWTOOL=0} M104 S175 T1 ; cool old tool {IF NEWTOOL=0} M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; stabilize new tool This script shouldn't interfere with the settings in the printer, but during a non-double print it heats and keeps at 175 degrees the first/second head I tried this, but it gives a very strange behaviour, although the temps do as they supposed (M104 and M109), but i get strange Z behaviour. When using both extruders in the skirt, the Z does not go back to correct height after a toolchange. When i disable this everything works again as expected. But "less intelligent" temperature settings. In the normal S3D dual extruder setting, the temp stays at 185 for some time (a minute or so), and after that it cools down. So at the next toolchange the waiting time is longer. But I am willing to accept that, in favor of the better controls in S3D. (this is my personal opinion, many people prefere Cura)
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At this moment my S3D configuration profile is 95% finished. Just need to modify some single extruder settings. Only thing i will not be able to program is the intelligent temp control, in my settings they cool to low, making the wait between toolchanges longer... When they are done they will probably end up on Github ;-)
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Simplify3D settings? I have the M2 printer working with Cura, but to be honest, it is not my favorite software ! The only advantage i see is the "magic temperature" S3D is what i used all the time, and now i want to adapt this to the M2. Is there someone who is already using this with them M2? Would be great to get tips and info. Otherwise, it will be trial and error.
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I had sort of the same issue, it was with the first github versions. And with a to big difference between the 2 nozzles in the Z axe. After upgrading all the files with the current distrubuted in Github, and the UM2+ extruder upgrade as second head, all these problems are gone. What i see in the pictures is an enormous difference bteween the 2 heads in X and Y, maybe dial in an offset that is closer to the reality. I can't check the values right now. Maybe someone can chime in?
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I had exactly the same problem with my UM3, and on top, the prints just couldn't be removed from the plate without breaking them. G92 Z-0.1 did the trick!! Strange that we can not dial this in somewhere in the print settings.
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The main issue with um3 is that the firmware must be signed by UM for the um3 to accept it. Oliver and nallath give this answer of how to do it. Ofc, isn't easy at all to change the firmware as easy as a um2 (and that for me is what doesn't make sense). http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&hilit=Um3+firmware+signed&start=930#p9062 Will have to wait then.... i miss the lights / screen dim functions, the complete display informations, the babystepping.... When the UM3 is aside the UM2+ dual extruder, the UM3 now feels limited ("closed source")
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@Labern has a mirrored feeder assembly up on youmagine that works very well here. Will look into that, think it is a nicer solution to place feeder n2. Thanks!
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Love Tinker ware, now very stable on my UM2+ Mark2+ LOL But, i also have a UM3. Any chances of Tinkering? Feels so limited now :-(
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If you buy new screens now, how are the chances the printer will survive another set? 2 years? Anyway, this is one of the main reasons i use tinkerware. + some other extras ;-)
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Amen!
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Hello, I have a UM2 + mark 2 (dual extrusion) With Cura 2.5, my small PVA structures tend to break. Ruining the prints ofcourse. I use Makerfill PVA, 20% support, 30mm speed, and a prime pillar,temp 215, starttemp 205, end temp 200. Also have a lot of stringing, between the prime pillar and the object. There seems to be no retraction. Also, i can't find the "helper parts" in Cura, how do i enable this feature? Anybody any tips? Thanks
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At this moment i can say that i did a succesfull transformation of my UM2 Just a little review of the work done. After reading about the magical magnetic changer, i knew i wanted one. My base was a good working UM2 which was converted to the +. Very good and reliable machine. But ofcourse, no second extruder.... As soon as the project was "released", i printed the parts, put the magnets in, and mounted everything with the old UM2 head + feeder. Then i had some problems, the second head was to high. Immediatly i was supported, and got a spacer to print, which i did, after that it theoreticaly worked. But, the old UM2 head + feeder just did't cut it, feeder skipping, bowden blocked, bwaa, ordered an extrusion upgrade kit, and mounted that, what a joy, no more worries with the feed + nozzle. Electricaly, i also ordered the Mark2 board + cables, no mess with cables, and, total control over the fans off the second hotend. The first prints gave me troubles, with out of area messages and stopped prints. Turned out to be a Cura problem. (or at least, i found a workaround for this issue) My final verdict: If you have a UM2, and want a second head (who doesn't?) this is the way to go! Play safe, order the mark2 board, use a original UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit, and good quality magnets. (900grams pulling force, these are some strong magnets!) And, to all the founders, contributors and beta testers, i can't tell you all how happy you guys make me. Support at the right moment, you got me true here. It feels like having an (even better with more possibilies) UM3, but for a much lower price.
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Update 13 Mai 2017 AFter doeing this: Cura check: Travel->layer start x/y and set it to something like 100.0/50.0 My error out of printing area is solved ;-)
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or or both you should be fine (up to my experience) If not just send the gcode file to @Tinkergnome. He always knows why (so far I set the travel start to 50 50, and now i see the travel moves still happening, but they stay in the print area. Also visible in Cura. Mart2tweaks did not solve this particuliar problem. Now printing this new file, tomorrow morning i will see the result. I will send Tinkergnome the file as soon as i figured out if it is in the software ;-)
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In Cura check: Travel->layer start x/y and set it to something like 100.0/50.0 Then you could activate the Mart2Tweaks Plugin. And use the S3D gcode viewer (still better display of movements) to check for weird moves to the borders of the printing area. There shouldn't be any except for the very first and very last layer. I see a lot of movements, all to 0.0, and the first one gives the error already. No how to get rid of them? Already happy that it is not a hardware thing ;-)
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In Cura check: Travel->layer start x/y and set it to something like 100.0/50.0 Then you could activate the Mart2Tweaks Plugin. And use the S3D gcode viewer (still better display of movements) to check for weird moves to the borders of the printing area. There shouldn't be any except for the very first and very last layer. AGAIN!!! OUT of area printing Cleaned the sd card slot, another SD card, changed power management. 2 times the same object (minnie mouse ;-), 1 time at 100%, & time at 50%, only connection i see is that it is at the same height (scaled), so i am going to check the G-code file. You talk about S3D to check this?
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ERROR printing out of printing area Had this again, with another part. Until now 3x, and what is see is that the second head is always connected at the time of error, the head goes to the home position.. Used the tinker expansion board non extended version. I was one of the people who also had the power problem with the recenet tinker version, maybe connected?
