RudydG

Thanks, this solved my problem. 3.4.1 is working now with the mk2 on macbook air OSX;-)

Anyone succesfully installed the latest version of Cura with the UM2 mk2? I always get the message that there is something wrong with my init files. Working nice with 3.3.1 Wondering what could be wrong.

Will there be support for the UM2 + MK2? Then i am very interested!!

I find it very difficult to dry "wet" filament, my nylon never got saved. (i use a food dryer) Best practice is surely to never get the filament wet, i store i dryboxes with tons of silicagel and moisture meters, and i print out of the polybox.

Duet3d WIFI + expansion print + paneldue in use ? This is the best board i ever found, so easy and powerfull!! Many thanx for the tip!

HAllo, I am building a printer with the UM3 printhead assembly, complete with original cores. What would help me is the switching code for the nozzle lift / lowering mechanism. Anyone in possesion of this code? Many thanks, Rudy

I have the same experience, joy to use for parts which are strong enough and do not need the 100% finishing. Pva with support roof + ironing is better, but not easy to use, more critical in humidity, and a lot of time lost for removing the stuff.

Hoi, can you do this trick again for the 3.3.1 Cura? have the same problem again... Thanks, R

Update: Ordered the complete Duet set (wifi board + 5 expansion board + 7inch lcd + pt100 board + IR board) ?

Very very nice, thank you!!!

Didn't try the 3D hubs . But you say, 50 for the plate thrue Ultimaker? Got a number of that? Many thanks, Rudy

Just curious, how is this project? I am also "in love" with the new cores from my UM3 I am modifying an old Leapfrog, already transformed the X-Y so i can "accomodate" the dual head principle from the um3. And now the UM3 drawings are available, it is so much easier...even the head switching is printable. Just 2 parts that are still tricky, the metal bottom plate (cost around 100€ to get it made in metal true materialise), and the electrical connection (print)

Same here, crash right after the start. Osx 10.13.4 on Macbook Air 2012

Yes, i am reading myself in, and indeed, the duet3 seems to be a good candidate, and easy to work with. Just figuring out if the cost is justified for this printer. Got a good source to buy these boards?

But can i use the UM2 firmware on this board? I would like to keep the software side simple, and would like to have the ultimaker features (like loading and unloading material) ? Just checked, wow, some serious forum, and it seems to be the motherboard of 'today" ;-) Will check into it!!

Thanks!!!! Did some research, and because the Z axe is a nema23 stepper, i will have to use an external beefier driver, so i am limited to the choice of motherboard, it will be a rumba. But the firmware will ben compatible ofcourse. Starting a long project, but in the end, it will be a 300x300,300mm dual head printer ;-)

Sander, thanks for the reply. I am already a UM2+ mark2 user for about a year now, enyoing it very much. That is why i would like this system (motherboard + firmware) as a start to rebuild the Creator. In the past i build lots of repraps with ramps and rumba's, but once i got used to the symplicity of the UM2 boards + firmware and display, i am hooked to it. Basicly, the only difference between the Leapfrog and the UM would be the X-Y-Z dimensions, (i wil have to reposition some endswitches), the heater + printbed settings (Pid), and some calibration of the extruders, unless i chose to use the UM2 types. (maybe i buy 2 um2+ upgrade kits) But, i will have to get acces to the firmware source code om the UM2 mk2. Greetings, Rudy

Hello, i have an old Leapfrog HS creator, which i would like to "recycle" and make it working again. Some basic needs: -Adapt it to use 3mm filament instead of 1.75mm -Switch motherboard and display, possible to um2 board. -Maybe integrate um3 printhead,, ideal would be even 2, and make a head switching situation like the um3. Other possibility would be adapting the beatifull magnetic dual head system like on my adapted um2. Anybody tips? Is there um2 firmware that i can adapt myself to make it suitable to the bigger buildplatform? Many thanks, Rudy

I just bought my first roll of breakaway (i normally use polysupport, comparable material i think). First findings are that it is a very very comparable material, which could mean, it is hygroscopical, just like polysupport. I fully understand your findings, and the tempting "easy" placement on the back of the ultimaker. My setup at this moment: 2 rolls in printing are always in my Polybox, which i adapted with some extra exit holes, so it is easier to route the filament out. Opened rolls are kept in big plastic boxes (+-8 rolls per box), with 500grams of silicagel, and monitored with cheap aliexpress hygrometers. Wet silicalgell is dried in a fooddryer for 12hrs. (with drying of a wet roll filament i never got good results, so the trick is to avoid contamination) The silicagell is dryed when i get about 18% in my boxes. I live i a moderate climate situation, if i look at my interiour now, 21c, 45Rh% Bottom line: Dry filament is very important! But easy loading / unloading also. And for my believing breakaway is hygroscopic. So my answers: My questions: 1. Is the Ultimaker Breakaway filament hydroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere)? YES 2. Can it be ruined by leaving it in a humid atmosphere? YES 3. Can it be safely dried by using a heater? NOT FOR ME 4. What is the suggested temperature to dry UM Breakaway? --- Happy printing!

Pva does not stick on PLA, this is a known problem. You can try to use the horizontal expansion settting, until the pva touches the buildplate from the buildplate up. I always avoid pva as much as possible, and use polymaker polysupport, whenever i can. Easier to print, no messy water proces. Greatings, Rudy

Hey, thanks for you support, and all you work!! Really appreciate this! Indeed i think it is time to do something different, and connect the printer to a network, then i can use the direct methode, like i do on my other UM's. Will do that as soon the printer is free.

Even 1 circular object of 150mm can't be auto-arranged. always have to do this manualy. Not one of cura's strongest point.

Sure, in Cura you select the um2+, remove the dock, hang the 2nd head outside the printer, and you machine is a UM2+

Great! thanks for the support, as this is critical to use the mk2 to the level of an UM3.

-Just checked the FW version, 3.5.3.20161221 -Files are certainly in the correct format. (no tar at the end)