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RudydG

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Everything posted by RudydG

  1. I design and print a lot of functional prototypes (UM2 MK2 and UM3) Parts are often rather big, and complex. Some parts do not need to be 0.1mm all the way, but just a part of it. At this moment i have a part printing 3 days (with support material), in .1mm. Printed in .2 it woul be a day and a half. But i have to select .1, even if only 20% of the part needs .1 Can i achive this in Cura? (S3D does it, but is not so good in changing tools / temperature. Many thanks!!
  2. Very good filament, the only pla i use these days, wand as supportmaterial their polysupport.
  3. I have both the UM2 and UM3 My UM3 just ... works, no hassle, no tinkering, extremely easy, problems with nozzle, replace the core. My UM2 i upgraded tot the UM2+, and after that to the mark2 version. Works really great. But a little bit more work (tinkering ;-) If i would have to buy a machine that is reliable and easy, it would be the 3.
  4. There are three holes already.... at the top and bottom of the clear casing. I am not sure I understand what you mean about making 2 exit holes. This explains:
  5. Same here! Had a lot of trouble with pva / nylon / and other exotics. Bought a food dryer, and cooked all of my filaments. Was able to save some of them. Then i took some storage boxes, where i put the "open" reels in, with 500 grams silica gel, and was able to keep the humidity under 20%. So storage is secure. Then, still the problem of taking the reels out and putting them on the printer. Holala, the Polybox came to rescue. Cheap and convenient, i will just make 1 modification, 2 exit holes for the filament in the base section for easy switching of materials. I think many people don't realise the importance of keepingthe filamenst dry, and experience problems without knowing the real cause...
  6. My dear friend, do a search on the mark 2 project, it is just what you ask!!! 8 hours of printing, 1 small extra print incl. some cabling, and you are ready to go. Everything is done for you ;-) Happy dual printing!
  7. PVA and Nylon are very sensitive to humidity. I just bought a big fooddryer, to dry my filaments (after having the "steaming" trouble with an almost full reel of ultimaker Nylon) Dryed the nylon for 14 hours at 75 degrees celcius, and now it seems fine again. The pva is also dried, but didn't test it yet. I am drying all of my open reels, and after drying, i put them in a plastic box with 1kg of silica gel (the color changing type), and hope to keep them in good condition that way.
  8. Hi to all ! Yes ! it's indeed very very annoying, it kills completely the prime tower interest. I tried to apply the Mark2Tweaks.py pluging, it doesn't work for me, may be this could work for someone else ? Dear Gudo, i just tested S3D 4.0, and there, the head moves as it should. To the ooze shield, not the center of the printbed. I also tested Cura (2.7.2 B), and even if i put the prime pillar in the center, and the print at the rear left position, it goes to the print BEFORE it goes to the prime pillar. So i assume it is a Cura thing. What software version, and what X and Y start positions do you use? Just found out, cura, can't change the x and y start position, the settings is hidden by the active machine and will not be visible???
  9. Hi to all ! Yes ! it's indeed very very annoying, it kills completely the prime tower interest. I tried to apply the Mark2Tweaks.py pluging, it doesn't work for me, may be this could work for someone else ? Dear Gudo, i just tested S3D 4.0, and there, the head moves as it should. To the ooze shield, not the center of the printbed. I also tested Cura (2.7.2 B), and even if i put the prime pillar in the center, and the print at the rear left position, it goes to the print BEFORE it goes to the prime pillar. So i assume it is a Cura thing. What software version, and what X and Y start positions do you use?
  10. After some time working with the Mark 2, i must say it works really well!!! Toolhead changes work reliable, calibration is steady. Once everything is measured in, ;-) I use the second head mainly for 2 color prints, or supporting material. I use PVA (delicate parts) and Polysupport, which i like very much, because of the ease of use! At this moment 1 thing is not working ok, when i use wipe wall in cura (2.6-2.7 beta), the nozzle is already inside the print area (inside the the wipewall) when the printing are is reached after a toolhead change. No wipe is done on the wall. When i use a prime pillar, the head goes over the center of the bed where my print is, before going to the prime pillar. And it would be really nice, to be able to set the speeds of X , Y and Z axe for the toolhead change movements. They are now very noisy with my printer, which is in my linving room, if i could tune these values, it would be nice. Maybe i would sacrify some speed versus less noise. Happy printing!!!!
  11. Where do i find / set these settings in Cura? I have a UM2+ mark 2 dual head, and while these settings are in the firmware, they seem to have no effect. So i assume it is somewhere hidden in Cura. I do not speak of the regular retraction settings, but for the toolhead change settings? Many thanks!
  12. Ok, can see clearly why :-( I tried lots of printers, and to be honest, only the ultimakers gave me the fine prints without the trouble other had.
  13. The greentec is a very good filament!! Make sure you have a good first layer and 60 degrees printbed, and the rest is easy. Very high temp resistant.
  14. Bob, I saw the reviews, and also the comments. Being a computernerd (kind of), it never was a determinated factor. I thougt the printer just was not the "fine" machine wat i found in the UM 2+ (mk2) and my UM3 And ofcourse, the ease, be it software, firmware or the print itself, sets the UM family at a very high level! Would like to see the samples you printed on the bcn. Gr eetings from Belgium ;-)
  15. Bob, what is not to like on your BCN? was on my shortlist also. The script i posted is only for the change, and on the UM2+ mk2 there is no solution to purge at very change (like your script would do) But wit the bcn i believe there is a recipient ot get rid of the waste?
  16. My first result with 4.0 on dual extrusion is, bad. maybe some "tuning" to do. The thing i don't like about Cura, is the overall feeling of the program, with its settings menu's, it is slow and there is no logic in the interface, as with S3D it is very nice, and easy to find settings and change things. But probaly at this moment it is the best dual extrusion solution? Will have to make some more prints with S3D 4.0 before final judgement.
  17. Does some kind of cooling down, but not as good as cura. It goes down about 10 degrees. and the second extruder cooled down completely once it was no longer used. Also, about pillar height, noticed that my pillar went higher than the highest point of my print. Very strange!!! This is my tool change script. At the moment npt active, but you can try it. T[new_tool] ; uncomment section below to use idle temperatures {IF NEWTOOL=0};M104 S170 T1 ; idle right extruder {IF NEWTOOL=0};M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; heat left extruder {IF NEWTOOL=1};M104 S170 T0 ; idle left extruder {IF NEWTOOL=1};M109 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ; heat right extruder
  18. You can limit the primepillar height using the variable settings wizzard, at the height you want it to stop. Then you get multiple processes. then you can choose one of them, and disable the primepillar. This is not new, existed before, but now it is made easier.
  19. My favorite slicer, now even better ;-) Many new features. The king in support structures, can combine pla with pva as support structure for economics!
  20. There is an upgrade kit, you change the extruder + hotend and all the cabling. Everything is included. After installing you download the new firmware, and you are on a 2+ No changes to mainboard.
  21. Do you mean, also the one in the middle, that is normally always on in the printhead #1? I'm printing a dual extrusion test right now, currently at layer 4; all 3 fans on printhead #1 are spinning, but on printhead #2 they are still off.. With the Mark 2 board, the middle fan of head 2 comes on at about +70 degrees, and the 2 product cooling fans are controlled thrue the settings in your slicer.
  22. Marco, yes, i think it could be a solution. But i dont know of it can be used in cura? And ofcourse, it requires a 2 step calibration.
  23. Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta. Did a new calibration X-Y. And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning. Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me. Update 2: Bad luck, it is still there, now leaning in the X direction to the right. (cura 2.6 pla + pva , 0,1mm layerheight) This is sad. Think i will have to put the project on hold until it is properly solved. Update 3: Something funny came up. Halway the print, which i see leaning to the right, i checked my offsets again. The X was xx.17? I was quit sure that i had it put on a even number. Anyway, changed it halfprint to a round value (rounded to .05), like it is advised now in the new calibration section of the build manual. Will check this in the morning. Update 4: This morning, the print seems to be straight again (from the point i changed the X value to a rounded value) Still some 12hrs to go, then the print is finished, and i can put a ruler against it.
  24. Yes, i am on Cura 2.6 final now. Never tested the 2.6 Beta. Did a new calibration X-Y. And a few prints pla+pva (just struggling with adhesion of PVA) but i see no leaning. Only thing in encountered with the 2.6, that you have to enter the X and Y start like in the previous versions, to avoid a strange move of the second extruder in the print process. This still puzzles me.
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