Brulti
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Brulti
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19 minutes ago, Alex L said:
Love the support blocking function but for my applications it is often desirable to block support from large areas which are often irregularly shaped so placing, scaling and rotating the blocking volumes is time-consuming. What would be awesome would bt the ability to draw a poly line which would allow for exclusion of support structures in the area outside the poly line. does that make sense?
Thar's an interesting idea, but I don't think drawing the line directly into CURA would be easily doable, if at all. However, the ability to tell CURA that it must consider an object as the shape for the support-blocking feature might be easier to do.
So, we'd create the blocking object outside CURA in whatever 3D program one uses, import it in CURA and tell CURA 'this object is the support blocking shape'. What do you think?
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I'm just going to use all my favs on this.
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J'ai un capot depuis plusieurs mois, et j'en suis content aussi. Je ne me souviens plus de combien de temps j'ai mis au montage, mais je me souviens que je n'ai eu que peu de problèmes et que tout est rentré sans accros du premier coup, notamment la porte.
Pour le filtre, comme dit, c'est un filtre, pas un extracteur d'air. Le ventilateur fait un appel d'air qui passe à travers le filtre qui retient les particules. Et c'est excellent pour garder une température constante pour les matériaux difficiles. Pour le PLA, c'est inutile, voir ça génère des problèmes car la chaleur fait travailler le filament trop longtemps.
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You can find dozens of files for revolvers and revolvers parts on Thingiverse.
That's one of the scary side of this technology, even more so for people like me who live in countries where you don't see guns on the street worn by Joe Bob like a fashion accessory...
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Ok, I've run your file in CURA again and in Blender, using the 3D printign add-on to check if the part was suitable for 3d printing. It isn't. According to the checks done by the add-on, your part is not manifold, which means that it isn't considered as one solid object all over, and it has a lot of intersecting faces, which can easily confuse CURA or any slicer, because it's like two objects at the same coordinates and they don't know how to interpret it.
Here's a couple pictures: the first one is what CURA shows in layer view - Line type, which is already showing problems.
All the red lines I pointed at with black arrows are shell, ie walls, in places where there should not be any wall, or doing shapes it shouldn't be. The small squares of wall around the hole in the object shouldn't be there. But each of them means retraction as the printhead moves from one to the other, thus grounding your filament so much even a rabbit would be impressed!
Now, a picture from Blender:
You can see on the side the result of the check done by the 3D printing add-on. All the highlighted bits are intersecting faces. I do not know what software you used to model the part, but it screwed somewhere. You didn't used Sketchup, did you? Because Sketchup is notoriously awful at exporting objects in STL and rarely, if ever produces stl files that can be used for 3D printing.
That being said, if you want, I'd be happy to try and redo your part in Blender. The design seems simple enough, I'd just need you to send me the sizes of the various elements so I can redo them properly. Then you can test it again.
And, as a last note, it is advised to service the printer when you first receive it: it's not uncommon to have axis misaligned and such due to rough handling during transport. When I got mine, one axis was off the support and they were slightly misaligned, thus making the print skip and print the second layer 5 millimeters away from the first one.
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On 31/03/2018 at 9:55 PM, gr5 said:
USB printing through a cable is not officially supported on UM2. UM3 can't do it at all. Printing from the USB flash is fine. That's the only way I print with the UM3.
I think you mean 3cm or 4cm?
Erf, yeah, sorry.
And I didn't mean print via a USB cable, but via the network cable that hooks on the back. I have my printer linked to the local network via the network cable and a router, so I can send prints from my desktop directly. Way easier, in my opinion, and better control: if I see something gone wrong via the camera, I can stop the print through CURA. Useful when computer and printer are not in the same room.
@Xen The only way to keep filament dry while printing is by using what is called a drybox. You can find some on shops, or make your own. There are designs for that available on Thingiverse, including one that is very nice done by Ultiarjan, a member of this board. Basically, it's a plastic box with a hole to push the filament through, a holder for the spool and room to put something that absorb humidity. It's a must, and I'd even say that it is mandatory for long prints requiring PVA, because PVA is a magnet for air moisture. You'll be able to make a couple prints ok, then it will go to hell.
I've taken a look at your part in CURA, had no problem opening it in layer mode. It slows a bit when you slice it on Extra Fine 0.06mm, but otherwise it's ok. However, I'm a bit concerned about what CURA shows me when I look at it in Line type: why is there so much shells all over the place? Especially right in the middle of the top screwing part (sorry, I'm French, I don't know the word for the top part that screws onto something). It feels to me that there was a problem in the export to stl, or maybe even in the way the piece was build.
CURA shows so many tiny islands of shells, little red circles in line type view, that I'm not surprised it had problems printing it. The Nylon probably ended up ground up in the feeder with so many retractions happening in some of the layers. I'll take a closer look at it in Blender later, need to get out for a bit. But, in my opinion, there's definitely a problem with the way the file was done.
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Cura accepte des pièces de 296mm de hauteur maximum, au-delà, le logiciel refuse en disant que la pièce est trop grande.
J'ai jouer un peu avec CURA pour voir les grandeurs maximales que le logiciel accepte::
- Mono-print (1 seul core): 189*191*296 mm
- Dual-Print: 184*191*296mm
Cela dit, on peut techniquement imprimer des pièces plus grandes en jouant sur l'orientation de la pièce, vu qu'il arrive rarement qu'on imprime des cubes qui prennent tout le volume. J'ai déjà imprimé des pièces de plus de 20cm de long en les plaçant à plat en diagonal sur le plateau. Donc, pour une pièce de 30cm de haut, lui donner un léger angle permettra de l'imprimer sans problème et sans affecter la qualité de l'impression, hormis visuellement, et encore, cela dépendra aussi des réglages.
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I've printed about a dozen parts with Nylon, half of them with PVA, so I have a bit of experience, although I never troubles like you.
First, yes, UM Nylon left for too long in water, especially warm water, will have a tendency to warp, depending on the shape of the print and the inner structure, of course. I had that happen with a piece that had a large flat base, the base warped some. It wasn't much of a problem for my customer though, since he screwed it on top of a metal plate, and the Nylon got flat again once screwed. According to UM, their Nylon can go up to 80°C, then problems arises.
Then, I confirm some of what @gr5 said: Keep Nylon dry (dryboxes during printing are a must), same with PVA, put the prime tower away from the corner (I put it on the right side, mid-way between the corners) and make it thicker (there's an option in CURA for this, I put mine at 3mm or 4mm thickness to ensure they have a base large enough not to fall).
I've never used glue with Nylon, it sticks well enough on it's own, though YMMV.
Could you post the stl file of your cylinder so we can take a look and see if, maybe tehre's a problem with the file or when it slices?
As was mentioned, it's best to avoid too many retractions with PVA, although your design seems simple enough to not provoke that kind of behavior.
I see you're printing using the USB. This may also be the cause for problems. Did you try printing directly from your computer, by connecting it to your printer? I seem to recall reading that some people had troubles due to the USB stick. I've never used it personally, so I can't help, but you should be able to find the threads on this forum that discuss potential sisues with USB printing.
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On 27/03/2018 at 5:03 PM, kmanstudios said:
How did the prints work out?
Finally got some news: the prints worked like a charm, fit to specifications and they're holding up so far.
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That's indeed quite an awesome work in so little time.
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16 minutes ago, SandervG said:
Ah, it is set to a max of 10 reactions/likes a day. I guess I didn't expect us to be such a likeable bunch of people when I set it up initially
I'll change it to unlimited, so you should be able to express your appreciation to your fellow forum members again!
Apologies for the inconvenience.
We're all very likeable here! Thanks for the quick reaction!
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DM sent without a hitch, still unable to react to any message.
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Hello,
I just had a pop-up saying 'You cannot add more reactions today' while trying to like a torture print here:
According to the 'Activity' tab in my profile, I reacted to 11 things in the past 24h. Which seems quite low given the activity on this forum. Is there a way to remove that number cap on reactions?
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Torture print... I like! ^^
Except I can't: 'You cannot add more reactions today' ?
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I love the design of that fence!
There's several reasons that PVA can fail, the main reason being humidity. PVA is extremely sensitive to humidity, and it can degrade quickly if left out in the open for hours, like during a 10 hours print.
And New Zealand isn't the driest place on Earth. I'd suggest using a drybox while your print. You can find some in shops, or make your own, like the one that @ultiarjan made and you can find it here: https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:1837907
For this roll of PVA, you can save it by putting it on a box with a packet of silica gel to absorb the moisture, or even heat it on the printer itself or on an oven at low temp for a few hours.
Alternatively, as I see on the second picture that there is a 'max temp error' message on your printer, it might also be a fault within the printcore or the printer. Does that error message shows often? Have you been able to test with another BB core to make sure the problem isn't with the core you're using?
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Just now, ghostkeeper said:
That by itself is easy to implement. It's probably harder to then predict beforehand how wide the prime tower is going to be to determine where the user is allowed to place objects before slicing.
Since the base will always be wider than the top, why not use the 'Tower Base Thickness' to create the 'print shadow' thingie and determine the volume of space that the prime tower will occupy, thus the volume of space unavailable for other objects to be printed? It's not like we're going to be printing over the prime tower anyway, so the 'shadow' can keep a constant width, when it comes to determining free space to print, even if the real prime tower doesn't.
If I'm not mistaken, the 'shadow' of the prime tower is determined by the 'Prime Tower Size' parameter. The bigger it is, the more space the tower occupies, the less space I have to print. So, if my idea is implemented, you'd just replace 'Prime Tower Size' by 'Tower Base Thickness' to calculate the shadow. So, basically, keep it the way it is now, just change the number used as a reference?
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Il me semble que c'est normal que les ressorts du plateau travaillent un peu lors du nivellement auto. Je ne me rappelle plus des détails, mais ça avait été dit sur un des sujets en anglais, pour que la détection fonctionne correctement.
Chez moi aussi les buses appuient sur le plateau, mais je n'ai pas remarqué d'usure particulière due à ça. La seule usure que j'ai eu a été quand j'ai imprimer du bois, du glow et de la paillette.
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CIRCULAR PRIME TOWERS! ... Hum, sorry...
Although, I think if we want to have really stable prime towers and eliminate almost completely the chance that they get toppled over for some reason, especially on tall prints, we'd need to have the prime towers be wider at the base than at the top, like a pyramid or something alike. I've no idea how hard or easy it would be to encode that though. And to have the Prime Tower menu allow us to define 'Tower Base Thickness' and 'Tower Top Thickness', with a check in CURA making sure that the base is wider than the top, and that the top isn't just a single pixel in width.
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I heard no complaints so far, so I think they worked out fine. I'll know more next time I see him, my friend has notorious problems when it comes to communicating through modern means like emails, phone or texts. It can get quite frustrating at times...
Switching from useful stuff to more nerdy stuff, I present to you the USS Excelsior NCC-2000, fresh out of the shipyards and ready for the transwarp tests!
Printed on silver grey PLA at 0.06mm with PVA as support. Needed about two days in the water to dissolve all the PVA in the small crevices like the tight space between the nacelles struts and the main body, and the holes there as well.
Surface details came out looking quite nice, and, thanks to the layers, the nacelles look very nice and have the same visual aspect than in the real model.
It will go well with my Enterprise-E that I printed some time ago, although it was printed in black PLA, maybe not the best color for a StarFleet ship.
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Thanks, I'll take a look.
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I used the standard UM Nylon for this, since it's easy to print and I know for experience that it is sturdy and durable. And I only copied the design from an unbroken part that he was able to give me. It's a good thing that it has a quite simple shape! I'm not that good yet at modeling stuff...
I hope it works right off the bat, that'd be nice.
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It's not as impressive as the sculptures of my good friend @kmanstudios or some other stuff we can see on this thread, but rather it's on the 'useful and money-saver' side of things:
Those things are small pieces for an electrical bed for a friend of mine who is paralyzed below the waist since an accident many years ago. As far as I understand his explanation, this little piece is some sort of clip that holds the mattress and the bed together, or something like that (he wasn't very clear in his explanation... ).
The shiny one in the pictures (In the background on the first and on the right on the other two) is the original part (there's several to hold it all together), the others are the ones I printed on my UM3E using Nylon for resilience and durability. I modeled it in Blender, then exported in stl and printed. I still need to put them in water to remove the leftover of PVA, used it for the holes for the screws. As far as I can tell, they're the same size than the original one, and even the curves are very close. I'm always baffled by the capacity of the printers to print with such accuracy.
That will cost him 10€, he wanted to pay for them, thus he'll save about 3990€ because his electric bed isn't sold anymore (despite being barely four years old), and the shop where he bought doesn't have any spare parts and wanted to sell him a new electric bed.
I'll give them to him tomorrow, and I hope they'll fit as nicely as the original parts. I'll keep you all updated.
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TPU and PVA are listed as experimental by Ultimaker, thus you may encounter other problems.
One solution to your problem would be a prime tower, whihc would gives TPU time to cool down and stop extruding before PVA starts printing the support of your model.
Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.3 | Beta
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
I didn't think that CURA could allow us to draw directly into it. Would that be possible? Draw a free flowing line on CURA itself then have it recognized as a shape and used to block support?