Brulti
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Posts posted by Brulti
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@DidierKlein Knowing my manual skills, or lack of, the probability of breaking it completely will probably be closer to 100%...
Well, it maybe expensive and difficult for us, or for any company that uses UM3 printers, but it shouldn't be that difficult for Ultimaker themselves since they do build the cores. So, you would think that they have the proper equipment to disassemble and reassemble the printcores, thus have a low probability of breaking them completely. And I guess they also conduct regular quality control tests on the printers and printcores, beyond the test print done with each printers.
@SandervG What's the current view on recycling for Ultimaker? Is there any discussions on the subject inside UM at the moment, or was there a discussion on recycling before and what came out of it?
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Thanks for the info on the heater and sensor, I didn't knew.
I guess I should have been more clear in my first post though, because what I meant to ask was if UM had something in place for the recycling? Since the UM3 printcores are quite exclusive, recycling them might save money if all they need is to replace a component or two, or they could even resell them as second hand?
Like ink printers company who know recycles the cartridges which saves quite a lot of money, and the cartridges can be reused many times. If UM only needs to change the printhead on a printcore, maybe it would be more cost effective to recycle them than to produce brand new ones?
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Hello,
I have a question: is there something in place to recycle the printcores from the UM3/E?
Or to recycle any other parts of the printers actually, beyond what is already mandatory in our respective countries. I mean, I have one unusable printcore that would probably only need to have the print head changed since I damaged it by printing wood and glow with is, the other one would probably need more work since it got buried in a huge PLA blob when a print failed, but there may be parts that can be salvaged and reused.
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Multiple outputs would be the way to go in order to fit the needs of the many. Some would only need pdf for references, some would like a database to study and make comparisons, etc.
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Oh, that's nice. ^^
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The ability to export into different formats then, so it can be made into a spreadsheet directly. I've personally no idea how to make a database...
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Hello,
Could you post your model here? That way we could give it a try ourselves and see if we can find what the problem is.
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I've no clue what the initial question was, and what the gif shows, but have some more likes anyway.
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A very excellent idea. I'll add that it would also be useful if we could have an option to print only parts of the settings, else it'd be quite long, and maybe have another option that prints only what we changed compared to the base settings as well.
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@gr5 I do not see a way to 'prefix' a tag on my topics. There is no option for it. I've added the 'Solved' tag there:
It appears in the tag lists and the title, but not in the same obvious way like what you did on this thread.
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Hello,
Could you post the file here so we can take a look?
I believe there is an option somewhere that does that to avoid the 'line/scarring' thing that happens sometimes when all layers start at the same location. Perhaps you turned it on accidentally? I forgot how it is called, haven't tried it yet.
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You can mark it as resolved by editing your first post and adding the 'solved' tag.
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Ok, makes sense now. I'd be interested by this info as well.
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4 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
All things in Cura are in Cura world space.
CURA dimension has it's own rules! *Cue scary music*
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I've printed a few things with TPU95 using CURA's standard settings, with little troubles as long as it was nice geometric things.
It looks like either your bed is not level, or maybe your glass is bent. There has been a series of bent glass plates sometime last year, which made printing quite a hassle, if not outright impossible. You should check that out: I've used a bubble level to check it, and saw how my original glass was bent in a U shape. If that's the case, call your reseller, they should exchange it for free.
Else, as was said above, keep the TPU dry (food dehydrator or drybox), feeder tension should be in the middle, and make sure the nozzles are clean, and you should be good.
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In CURA, it is found on Dual Extrusion -> Enable Prime Tower.
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Do you mean PLA materials and not PVA?
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@KenL The only autoscaling that exists in the latest version of CURA (3.2.1 at this moment) is for autoscaling very small or very large part, ie stuff that is either in mm or meters, since one would be very hard to select and the other would just fill up the viewer and zooming out might not be possible.
If those are not checked, then CURA does not do any autoscaling. I've printed plenty of stuff on the diagonal on my UM3E and never have I experienced what you experienced.
Based on what you said, I believe you are being tricked by a quirk of CURA that @gr5 tried to explain in his first response: the measurement in the 'Scale' menu are not the measurements of your item, but a measurement of the volume it will occupy on the printing space. CURA is measuring the space that the printed item will occupy using predefinite and absolute X, Y and Z direction that do not vary.
For example, if I try to print a wrench horizontally then diagonaly, the measurements by CURA changes, but not the size of my item:
It only changes because I have changed the orientation. Cura measures using it's own reference system, irrespective of the orientation of your item, as shown by the big blue, red and green boxes. Thus, of course, if I change the orientation of my item, then the measurements in CURA changes since it doesn't care about orientation, it just measures in a straight line.
Basically,CURA makes measures this way:
And not this way:
Hope it helps you.
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Hello,
This will be a bit of a rant because, well, I think it deserves it because it was quite frustrating looking for resources that should have been more easily findable.
I've had my UM3E for about nine months now, and, after a host of troubles and trying out solutions given through the forums (Thanks to all who helped me), I think it may be time to do a maintenance on the printer, and especially check the axles and the tension of the belts.
First thing: there's no mention of how to do that in the pdf manual that you can download from the UM.com website. The 'Maintenance' chapter doesn't even mention that you should check it from time to time or links to the relevant pages on the website.
While I can understand that one would make printed manual light to save on cost, on paper and on weight for shipping, I'm always amazed when pdf manuals are paper thin, given that mostly everyone has hard drives with storage capacity in the terabytes, and internet speed can usually handle downloading a book sized manual with many pictures and diagrams to explain and clearly show things to the reader.
Second thing: I've found the 'Maintenance' page on the website, then I found another 'Maintenance' page, much to my surprise and confusion.
The first one is on Resources -> Manuals -> 3D Printers -> Ultimaker 3 -> Maintenance
The second one is on Resources -> Manuals -> Add-ons -> Ultimaker 3 Maintenance Kit -> Maintenance
The first one has summaries, very short and brief, at least when it comes to the 'Check for play on axles' and 'Check the tension of the short belt', while the second is much more clear, easy to read, and with more pictures to show you what to do and how.
Why aren't those explanations directly into the manual? They should be, along with the suggested maintenance schedule, and all the pictures, and links towards the website.
I'm among the few people who still read manuals; I know it's going out of fashion; and it frustrates me to no end when such useful, I'd say even critical, information is not on the manual.
So, I'd like to understand why there is two 'Maintenance' pages, and why the detailed information is on the 'Add-ons' section and not on the 'Ultimaker 3' section.
And also suggest that updating the current manuals with this information would be good, or even just a link to the relevant pages on the website, and that this gets included in the manual for the UM4, when it comes out.
Thank you, and sorry for the rant, I really hate when information is spread out everywhere.
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@kmanstudios I'm always fascinated with your fractal sculptures...
I've been doing quite a lot of small prints lately, just serviced the printer and running the test prints, and the estimate Cura is giving me have been spot on down to the minute.
Did a couple huge prints last week while I was away (dragon head my partner found somewhere online) and the estimate for top part was 6 days and some hours, 3 days for lower jaw, and, as far as I can tell, it was spot on as well.
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Very nice. However, I think you got ripped on the bottom middle one. Might wanna check with your reseller...
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J'oubliais de préciser une chose:
NE PAS UTILISER DE PRODUITS VITRE BLEU OU TRANSPARENT!
Quelque soit la marque. J'ai fait des tests, les produits vitres dont les liquides sont bleus ou transparents, les plus vendus dans le commerce, laissent un film anti-adhésion sur la vitre. C'est très bien pour les fenêtres ou les portes vitrées, mais pas pour une imprimante 3D...
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Perso, j'utilise du produit pour vitre Karcher pour nettoyer le plateau. Ça enlève la graisse des doigts, ca dissous les petits bouts de PVA qui restent accrochés, et ça n’empêche pas l'adhésion contrairement à d'autre produits détergent vitres.
Je viens de finir deux longues impressions qui ont demandées beaucoup de PVA, donc nettoyage de la vitre a chaque fois, aucun problème d'accroche.
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Ok, I'll take a look. Thanks.
How do I convert an stl mesh file into a solid or surface model?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
You can open an stl in Blender as well: File -> Import -> STL