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  1. I encountered this issue, too. It is good that Cura includes eSun PLA+ as default materials. But it is bad that Cura always show "Not supported" for it in recent Cura releases. I believe it is a program mistake..... but the Ultimaker team usually don't admit they made mistakes. So, the best way is to find a workaround by yourself e.g. don't use "+" symbol.
  2. Mm... I can no long find official links. Ultimaker team might think it is unnecessary to adjust axes after testing a lot of UM2/UM3 for years. But I think it is still useful to ensure the axes of my UM3 are perfectly aligned. I ever sent my UM3 to reseller for ER18. After the machine is repaired, I used it for several weeks but feel the prints are not as good as before. Until, someday, I found the 6mm shafts are not well assembled to the 8mm shafts. To repair ER18, reseller has to disassemble the printhead to replace one cable. The two 6mm shafts must be removed from th
  3. I might not express it well. We know that when current flows through a wire, it creates voltage drop. Large current creates large drop. The situation is the same in a PCB. The power supply is feed in one end of PCB then flows to each regulator (5V, 3.3V...) then to ICs (e.g. ADC). If you look at the positive rail (+24V --> +5V...) then it seems okay. The 5V regulator should still work even for 6V drop. But if you look at the GND rail (return path) then it might not okay if the current is huge. If the return path of heater is not closed to 24V power supply, e.g. it go
  4. The extruder temperature you measured is based on the serial output of Marlin. But the firmware doesn't know that the grounding level is dynamically shifted. So, the firmware (PID or other) will still try to make the temperature reading stable while the actual temperature is drifting. I mean, you can NOT depend on the serial output. You have to use an external device to measure the nozzle temperature.
  5. No idea. But as an engineer, I always check the power supply stability for boards (systems) with unknown issues. So, you should check the 2nd item, +24V, before other items.
  6. The queue is only used when you print over wireless. If you use USB stick to transfer the print file then it won't use the queue. So, you can try to print over USB. For the queue, how about remove Cura connection in S5 and then reestablish connection. PS: I don't have UM S5, but UM3. I guess the mechanism should be the same.
  7. I don't have S5. But did you "preview" the sliced result in Cura?
  8. UM3 design files are open source and you can get them from https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3. You will need a CAD tool to open the STEP files. As I know, UM S5 isn't open source yet. But I believe the basic structures are the same. For local support team, I think you have to go through resellers. You can find resellers in your country from https://ultimaker.com/resellers.
  9. It is sure you can replace it by yourself. But it might break warranty. If warranty is not a concern then you can print the part by another 3D printer. (My UM3 refuses to work if printcore#2 is not well installed. No idea about UMS5). As I can see, you also need support material to print this part. That means you need another 3D printer with two extruders. The part's file name is "2116-H.STEP". You can download all UM3 STEP files from https://github.com/Ultimaker. I don't know if UM3 and UMS5 have the same printcore design or not. I guess they are the same. But you had
  10. Suppose UMS5 and UM3 have the same printcore structure. From the UM3 step file, we can see the spring in pirntcore 2. It should not come out to be seen. That means it is damaged and you should return it to distributor for service.
  11. What you said "I am seeing 'fat' layer vs thin layers that extend in all directions." This could be caused by a dirty Z lead-screw. When a machine is used for a very long time. The Z lead-screw will be very dirty. Please fully clean the lead-screw and then lubricate it again. But from the picture you posted, the lead-screw seems not dirty. Anyway, just try it and see if any difference. Btw, a used hot-end will be very dirty too. You should either use a new nozzle or clean it up at first. I remember there is an article showing how to clean the nozzle (hot-pull & cold
  12. Well... You said "all belts are tight, the axes are aligned and bed is leveled".... please ensure the belts are not too tight. Please also ensure the short belts connected to X/Y motors are not too tight, not too feeble. Lubricate all axes: the Z lead-screw, two Z rods, two X rods, two Y rods. According to my experiences, you can also try to calibrate the X/Y pulleys. To move printhead in X direction, the two X belts are rotated at the same time by four pulleys. It is possible that the pulleys loosen over time. To ensure the two X belts are synced, we have to ensur
  13. Z lead-screw wobble is fine. It won't affect X/Y precision. In fact, it is almost impossible to make a perfect lead-screw. So, additional axis rods must be used. The two big rods (at the left and right sides) parallel to the Z lead-screw is used for this purpose. They ensure the precision of X/Y direction. There must be other problem. Since your UM2+ is pretty new, how about sending it back to distributor for service?
  14. Active bed leveling will push the heated nozzle into build surface with a little bit large force. Due to various PEI thickness and hardness, it might not work well. But you can disable Active Bed Leveling and use Manual Bed Leveling. Manual bed leveling is still the very basic and important calibration technique.
  15. My suggestion: don't use PVA, use breakaway.
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