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alexjx last won the day on September 18 2019

alexjx had the most liked content!

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 Extended +
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  1. The model has a lot incorrect normals. Even one that on the same face. I recall reading somewhere that cura doens't affect by normals, but I guess I read wrong. Here is the model after fixing the normals.
  2. Plus one for this. I tried to implement this. But could not get the "angle" mark work properly... Cura didn't tracking the expansion state, but just tracking the "click".. See that "Quality" and "Material" collapsed, but the "arrow" is still downwards.
  3. This is really cool feature! I would like to use this. Thank you for bring another great feature. Have you pushed to your github? :)
  4. Actually, I think the video had made an incorrect claim against nylon. It will absorb water, but for a printed part, moisturization might be the wanted result. Nylon demostrates different properties after absobe water, it will be more flexible and "tough". And actually, some nylon parts manufactures demands certain degree of moisture. So I would put the printed parts into water to make it more "stronger".
  5. I'm not sure about the "nozzle 1" offset you are referring... The "regular" bed leveling wizzard will guide you to level the bed, and set the "active"nozzle" offset. So I normally do that with nozzle 1. After this the bed should be leveled relative to the nozzle. All you have to do is the set the offset of the other nozzle, and that is what the function in the "dual" manual does. Jia
  6. By connecting via USB, you actually gain access to the serial port. And printers are controlled via GCODEs. there are a lot you could find on the net. UM firmware implemented a subset of the GCODEs and some might not well comformant to the standard if there is one. I think reprap wiki would be a good start point. Regarding to your goal, assumming you would like to print via SD card. There are GCODE tells you what's the current bytes offset starting from the begin of the file. But the catch is that there is no GCODE to tell you how long it's been printing so far (as far as I know). So you have to track that from beginning. Jia
  7. Did you still have the gcode? you could inspect if there are M0/M1/M25 command to pause the print. If not, it might be firmware. Jia
  8. Here you are. But actually mine's 2*4*1.5, with 0.5 thicker for better insolation.
  9. Yes. It does. Same as mark2, firmware will adjust the Z height accordingly. After install this mod, you will have calibrate X, Y aligment and as well as Z. Similar to you leveling your bed. The difference is that, you have to manually do that (with GUI guided you through it of cause). Jia
  10. Assuming you're printing it as the STL...if you want it smooth. The only thing I could think of is to use quite small layer height. But since we are talking about FDM... I guess 0.05 will be the limtation?
  11. If there is no referrence to those temperatures, cura will insert them before the start gcode. At least this was the logic in the 4.1.
  12. Thanks. This is very helpful. Especially for those who print different high temperature materials, like PC. BTW, how does it work with the existing z-offset plugin? I see, it gives the option to include what option, not providing options directly.
  13. I think this is a good idea. Though I agree that the root cause is the leveling. But for beginners to do a good leveling is difficult. Because it is not really a measurable thing. It requires quite a lot experience. So why not make the tool do more that we could get started. Instead of being frustrated and leave.
  14. Do you do regularly updated build? Or github I could get the latest. I also like the extra control. 🙂
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