GregValiant

As Slashee points out, continuing an interrupted print isn't easy. It can be done, but it requires some practice and you don't have time to practice. Because of inaccuracies in the End Stop switches, if you have to home any axis it likely won't "0" in the exact same position. That isn't too bad for the Z as you might get one layer that is too thick or too thin (under or over-extruded). When re-homing the X-Y you can get layer shifts and they can be up to 0.5mm. IF THE BED HAS COOLED and some pieces have broken loose you have to start over. This file will print on top of what you already have down. Open it in Notepad and take a look at the "Transition" code. It moves the Z to 2.4 and syncs the extruder location to where it needs to be to resume. Start with the color of the letters as there is no pause in this. You need to make a decision whether to try to save the print, or cut your losses. GV_Puzzle with removed bottom..gcode

You have to give us some information to work with here. What printer are we talking about? Post the gcode file. Import your model into Cura Set Cura up to slice Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file with your settings and the model. Post the 3mf file here.

This is a similar model (in 5.6.0). Combing is set to "All" and "Travels" are turned on. The only cross-print travels are right on the bottom and involve the skins.

Set up your slice and then use the "File | Save Project" command. Post the 3mf file here and someone will take a look.

@RunTime - have you adjusted to "Combing Mode"? That model might respond better to "All". After setting the Z-seam location, look at the XY numbers in the boxes. Go to the "Travel" settings and set the "Layer Start X" and "Layer Start Y" to the same numbers. Having the "layer start" near the Z-seam can cut down on travel moves.

There have been two post-processors that are very similar. I combined them into one and made some other changes. One change is to allow a "fudge factor" that will adjust the print time that Cura comes up with (when you use the "Display Progress" option). The "adjusted time remaining" gets displayed on the LCD. This script will be included with Cura 5.7. Unzip it and put it into your Configuration Folder and the "scripts" sub-folder. DisplayInfoOnLCD.zip On my own prints, I started out with the "fudge factor" at 95% but with 5.6.0 I had to adjust it to 100% as there is pretty much no difference between the Cura calculated print time and the actual print time on my Ender 3 Pro. As Slashee says, much is dependent on your actual settings in the printer for the "Max Acceleration" (M201) and "Max Speed" (M204). If those numbers are in the printer definition file then they should be correct in Cura. If they aren't in the definition file, then everything becomes a guess. There is no way for Cura to query the printer to find out what the settings actually are. If you enter an accel of 3000mm/sec² in Cura and the printer has a max of 500mm/sec² in it's M201 register, then the Time Estimate can be off by a lot because Cura is acting on incorrect information. For small models "Minimum Layer Time" becomes involved and the uncertainty can grow.

A Florida man who is a retired fireman? No. In addition, the smoke from the fire would leave marks on my nice new custom "brushed on Rusteoleum" white paint. I've got about $3000 in the bike. Painters wanted $3500 to $4000 to paint it. I'd still have to take it apart and prep it, and then put it back together. Instead, it got a brush job with hardware store paint. It's not great up close but at 30mph I figure no one will notice. If I can keep the judges moving along so they don't dawdle and look too close I might have a shot at a trophy. It's better than spending $4000 to win a $25 trophy.

I custom built a motorcycle 12 years ago. It did pretty good in shows and it won a decent collection of hardware. The build has been getting a little long in the tooth and I haven't shown the bike in a while. I decided to do some updating and take it up to Sarasota this Saturday and put it in the show. I had mounted blue LED strips underneath the faux tank and I thought I'd add some more LED's. The result was this headlight ring. Now for the rest of the story... I was installing it to check for fit and function. It worked well, but the resistor couldn't handle the power. No problem. Change to a 25watt 15ohm resistor. That worked, but the resistor was still getting fairly warm. OK, I can fix that. Screw the aluminum body resistor to the metal inner headlight ring as a heat sink and the problem will be solved. That's what I was doing when I shorted the thing to ground and blew out all 24 nice blue LED's that I had spent 2 1/2 hours individually soldering into the ring. Here is plan "B". Instead of nice, bright 5mm 25ma LEDS we now have the cheesy "fairy light" LED's at 2ma. Not as nice, but won't start a fire if there is a short...I hope.

"...the noisy toy in the dining room..." Show her how to heat the bed and she can keep side dishes warm while your eating.

I was going to put in a pull request for the "...give you the finger" thing. I decided to give up on it when I realized that by the time the finger finished printing, any chance of spontaneity would be long gone.

That "prepend" is added to insure that the Cura settings are invoked for the hot end and bed. If there are Cura keywords in your startup then that "temperature prepend" won't be added. M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} and M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} would be examples for the hot end and bed temperatures in the StartUp Gcode. Cura will replace any keywords with the setting value and so the prepend wouldn't be needed.

If you haven't done it yet, go to the MarketPlace and load AHoeben's (FieldOfView) "Mesh Tools". You will need to restart Cura. After restart there will be additional menu options is "Extensions" and in the right click menu. Select the model in Cura. Right click and select "Mesh Tools". Go down and select "Split model into parts". I was surprised it worked. Most STL files only consist of a single model whereas 3mf files can have multiple models in them. After it has been split you will see in the "Object List" in the lower left of the screen that there are 24 pieces to the Luger. All very nicely modeled making it near impossible to print . You can make a nice Luger, but making a print that looks like a Luger on the outside but with a hollow interior for your lighter stuff ain't gonna be easy.

The pieces aren't really connected. The clip is designed to slide in and out so it has clearances on the sides. All the parts can be merged in MS 3D Builder but the gaps between the pieces remain. By definition it becomes a single piece but a tool like "Remove all Holes" won't work because the gaps are still there. The trigger guard is an issue as well. This has been merged, but it still won't get you what you want because the gaps remain.

I'd print two halves. Your problem is that it is too nice of a model for FDM. It looks like it was designed right from the CAD drawings. I used Mesh Tools "Split model into parts".

It shouldn't come to that. There are still printers around that don't have heated beds and they can print PLA. The same would apply to an enclosure. I print mostly functional models and with PETG and the bed is at 83. I have to use adhesion promoter for every print. Depending on the geometry of the model I get some warping sometimes but I have never really found a need for an enclosure. My experience with PETG is that a brim doesn't provide enough hold down force. I usually design 2mm thick pads (elephant ears) for areas that I can see will be prone to warpage. For PLA I never have to do that.

Check around the printer for drafts as well. I have a ceiling vent and I had to print a deflector for it because when the furnace/air came on it would blow right at the printer. It took a couple of minutes to figure that one out I tell ya'. PLA isn't much prone to warping so: the plastic isn't adhering to the build surface, or there is a temperature differential across the bed, that left front corner is lower by a bit, something like that. Just for reference, I typically print PLA with the bed at 50. You might try some "adhesion promoter" but check on those other things first.

The retraction distance should be near the max for the printer. The bed needs to be hot. I print a lot of PETG and the bed is at 83. I use hairspray as an adhesion promoter on 100% of my PETG prints. Long thin parts will still want to warp and pull off the bed. There are plugins in the Marketplace for "Tab anti-warping". You size the meshes and slide them around in Curs to provide additional footprint to the model. The "elephant ear" on this is 2mm thick and it almost wasn't enough. It managed to pull up by about a millimeter prior to the print finishing. A lot of people will tell you not to use the fan with PETG but I find that some fan helps a lot for things like the first layer over support and the first skin over infill. You can go into the gcode and add fan lines at appropriate layers, or you can use multiple instances of Search and Replace to turn the fan up at one layer and turn it off again at the next. large horizontal holes also need some fan as the feather edges start to close at the top. They will want to warp upward and the nozzle can hit them. Z-hops for that situation is a good idea.

I think the best thing to do would be to send an M201 to each printer and lower the Max Accel within the printers. You could "print" a gcode snippet something like... G28 ; Auto-Home > optional G0 Z10 F600 ; Move up > optional M201 X500 Y500 ; This example sets the Max X and Max Y accel to 500mm/sec² M500 ; Save settings in the printer G4 S2 ; Give it 2 seconds to complete the save M84 ; Disarm the steppers > optional The M201 might be firmware specific but there should be a command to alter the defaults in the printers. You need to check and make sure you are using the correct command. Changing the M201 setting means that no matter the setting in Cura for Print and Travel accel (M204 with P and T or with an S parameter in the gcode) when the gcode line gets to the printer, the limit would be enforced. Another alternative would be to put the M201 line into the startup gode of each printer. There would be no change to the defaults but once the line is read it would remain in effect throughout the print and until the printer is powered down. Upon powering it back up it would come to life with the previous default setting. What you cannot do is fool-proof it. If someone wants to add an M201 X1000000 Y1000000 to their startup they could do it. Unless they delete the file after bashing the machine there would be a record of that.

What material? It's kind of shiny - would it happen to be PETG? What is the build plate temperature? What is the build plate made of? Do you have any way to check if the temperature is uniform across the surface?

In the MarketPlace is a plugin called "Sidebar GUI". It rearranges the dialog boxes. In conjunction with that one you can install "Tabbed Settings". When they are both installed Cura looks like this...

The Japanese refer to "fool proofing" as "poke-yoke" because there is no proof against a fool.

This is from the end of the gcode file that the OP posted: \\ngradual_infill_step_height = 2\\ngradual_infill_steps = 5\\ninfil ;SETTING_3 l_pattern = cubicsubdiv\ When I slice that file I get the same thing but checking the settings in Cura - if "Cubic Subdivision" is enabled then "Gradual Infill Steps" is not enabled. It looks like it's being used though. @MariMakes could you take a look and see if you can duplicate this? It appears that "Gradual Infill Steps" is being used even though it is disabled for Cubic Subdivision. With "Grid" active set the Gradual Infill Steps to 4 Change the infill pattern to Cubic Subdivision. Gradual Infill Steps is disabled but it appears that the value in the box is being used during the slice. It appears that a lot of extra motion is being generated in the gcode.

"...annealed PLA has allegedly the highest stiffness..." I would call it "brittleness". After having been dried at around 115°F, I found that it can break when being pulled into the extruder. It prints a little different as well. I just looked at an image of a Duet board. On a single extruder printer the layer cooling fan is normally plugged into "Fan0". The fan command M106 has the "P" parameter for the fan number. You can plug in one of your fans to the Fan1 output and send M106 S255 P1 and it should go on (provided the firmware is configured that way). That is provided that the Fan1 outlet (and/or the Fan2 outlet) are PWM outputs and that a hot doesn't have to be on for the fan to work.

This is from the gcode when I sliced that project. G1 X93.334 Y126.75 E655.01482 G1 X90.175 Y121.266 E655.12007 G1 X88.205 Y121.266 E655.15283 G1 X111.795 Y121.266 E655.54513 G1 X111.783 Y121.266 E655.54533 G1 X111.795 Y121.266 E655.54553 G1 X107.85 Y121.266 E655.61114 My guess (and it's only a guess) is that it's related to "Gradual Infill Steps" when the infill is "Cubic Subdivision". I changed to a couple of other infill patterns and the problem went away. In addition, "Gradual Infill Steps" doesn't seem to be implemented correctly with Cubic Subdivision. It starts out at the "Infill Density" and then seems like it goes over it again with the "Step density".

You don't need a post processor for that. You could hand code a short gcode script and print it. M140 S60 G4 S7200 ; "S" is in seconds so that would be a 2 hr dwell M140 S0 If your mainboard has an output for a second fan you could get fancy and spend more money on another 24v fan and add a M106 S255 P1 line in there. The bed and fan would turn on, wait for however long, and then shut off.