i have bought pololu step motors which also indicated by ultimaker...i am considering to buy genuine heatbed which is nearly 150 euros...power supply requirement shows 24v 9.2 A i think it is not enough 7.5A
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You should use a power supply that has a rating about 20 - 30 % higher than your actual maximum power draw.
This will ensure you don't overload the power supply and get an optimal efficiency and lifespan.
Note that even if you used a 10'000 W power supply, your Ultimaker would still just draw as much power as it needs.
Switching power supplies deliver as much power as the application demands, with minimal wasted energy. But you don't want to run them at 90 or 95 % of their rated load all the time, because they will run hot and have a reduced lifespan.
You should use a power supply that has a rating about 20 - 30 % higher than your actual maximum power draw.
This will ensure you don't overload the power supply and get an optimal efficiency and lifespan.
Note that even if you used a 10'000 W power supply, your Ultimaker would still just draw as much power as it needs.
Switching power supplies deliver as much power as the application demands, with minimal wasted energy. But you don't want to run them at 90 or 95 % of their rated load all the time, because they will run hot and have a reduced lifespan.
my budget was low at the time, I couldn't afford a mean well power adapter, so I had to try the 24v 7.5 A ( witch cost me 20$) and the printer works just fine for now, the only thing is that the hotbed takes long to heat up, I don't really know how much a real ultimaker 2 bed takes to heat up, but mine takes about 6-7 min which is no big deal.
and I don't have a tool to measure how many amps my printer draws
I have built mine on 2020 frames; http://www.thingiverse.com/make:174608
For the heatbed, it is better to buy the genuine "Ultimaker heated bed upgrade kit" which includes the heatbed, z-axis motor, z-axis endstop, back cover and 24V adapter.
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i purchase genuine heatbed, meanwell power supply and heat resistant glass...it is not worth buying aliexpress or etc...
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any updates?
btw what do you think about the new extruder on um2+
this is the new laminated aleminum dibond which is strong and heavy...i am waiting for aleminum base plate from china....i used thicker dibond to test it but it is not strong enough to work on it...it looks a little messy but i will orginaze when aleminum plate has arrived....i have lots of dibond frame and i consider to build extended and 2go version... plus is just looking perfect...i love ultimaker 
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As I feared, I used all the electronics genuine except Ultimaker mainboard and it crashed... At start It worked well but 5th day the lcd has freezed and not responding even mainboard's light green is on and computer recognize it... I also use genuine meanwell power supply...
lest you got to the 5th day.. my controller wont drive the stepper motor for the extruder! :(
As I feared, I used all the electronics genuine except Ultimaker mainboard and it crashed... At start It worked well but 5th day the lcd has freezed and not responding even mainboard's light green is on and computer recognize it... I also use genuine meanwell power supply...
i had the same problem, for me the display controller was at fault, ( i started the printer, go through startup and after 30 sec or so it froze up) if you have any of those ramps display try using it, you only need to change in marlin the display tipe. that's how i found that the ultimaker board was fine
Edited by GuestWell, that's what happens when you get the chinese knock-offs...
Well, that's what happens when you get the chinese knock-offs...
no big deal, i solder another chip on the display board,replacing the damaged chip, and now it works fine
Well, that's what happens when you get the chinese knock-offs...
no big deal, i solder another chip on the display board,replacing the damaged chip, and now it works fine
Glad yours was easy... mine has dead E1 and E2 drivers..
above the display socket marked as U3, it is burned somehow. PCA9306 is the transistor code and i order Texas instrument's transistor for a replacement...
that is the same chip I had to replace
Nice bit of work very interested in how you converted the files to dxf
What's the thickness of your wood you milled from and where did you get the side panels? 
Hey, this looks great. It would be a fun project. Did you end up buying a printer or getting this one finished?
actually i am waiting for 6mm aleminum composite sheet to make it another one...
it will be better quality than the original...
What i need to finish are:
-x,y z and feeder motors and feeder mechanism
-Heated bed and 4mm aleminum part underneath of it.
-motherboard and LCD unit. ( knoob and knoobhousing is problem for me to find. they will be 3d printed by someone
-whole extruder unit
And of course 4 set of plastic slider
complicated thing is the motors... i need to find polou motors which seems close to original ones...
What are the dimensions of the composite sheet you are buying? I'm intrestles on making my own and it would help if I knew what I needed
hi,
I want too build my own ultimaker 2 go. Does anyone have the step files or know where i can find and download them?
greetings Ed
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
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Dustin posted a topic in Firmware,
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sharkiuli 2
i's not cheap, even with the Chinese parts, I have made my own ultimaker clone, and it cost me about 600 euro for the parts ( not all parts ware new like the power adapter) and I had to improvise with the wiring, soldering. As for the frame it was to expensive even in China
) over 270$, so I had to make my own, I have search for a CNC service, I have gave them the file with the frame and they cut it for me for 60$ in MDF material.
And this is how it looks now:
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minivipers 25
i finally get some materials...i just need power supply, heated bed and 4mm aleminum and glass...i get help in 3dhub by some hub create knoob housing for me which is not sold in market readymadeg. it is produced in formlab 1. it is resign and looks nice.
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sharkiuli 2
I used a power supply from a tv ( it's 24v and 7.5 amps and looks a lot like the ultimaker power supply ) I just had to add the 4 pin connector, and all this cost me abot 20$(it was second hand). if you chose to do like me and save some money make sure you get the + and - correct.
It works for me but the hotbed take a lot to heat up about 6 min. that may just be because the ultimaker uses a 9.2 A , or ,my hotbed is not that good ...
btw be careful with the extruder motor, it's 0.9 degree stepping angle not 1.8 like the others
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