Hi Brian,
Closing up the build volume is a big help! I made a lid for the front (without needing to drill holes!) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-temperature-lid
To cover the top is a bit trickier, for now I use a blanket of kitchen towel that I keep in place with some paper tape, but thats far from ideal (looks awful and the bowden gets deformed)
Something I have found is helpful with warping is using the "raft" feature in cura, and starting with a high build plate temp and lowering it slowly throughout the process of the build. If that still doesn't work, I had particularly good luck with gluing a piece of construction paper to the build plate and then adding a layer of glue to the top of that. (only safe with lower bp temps in my opinion)
3. Raise bed temperature to 110C
4. Turn of fan (in cura)
Yikes! #3, #4 are only for ABS!
You definitely want to do brim. That's probably the main thing you are missing. The bottom layer is critical - you don't want the glass too close or too far. It should be close enough that as the bottom layer is going down the traces of plastic are flattened like a pancake. Bed must be at least 50C to get good sticking. You get less warping at 60C due to the PLA being above glass temp (glass temp for most pla is at 52C).
Look if you do it right you should be posting us "how the hell do I get my print off the bed".
Your bed may be dusty so start over and clean it real well with glass cleaner. Then put down some glue stick on just 1/3 of the glass in stripes, then use a wet tissue to spread the glue around (and maybe a tablespoon of water). Let it dry clear - glue should be invisible. Next do brim, make sure filament is being squished (adjust the 3 knobs below plate as it prints the brim to make sure it squished well). Also make sure bottom layer is .3mm and not .1mm and bed is at 50C or 60C. 70C will cause other problems but at least it will stick to the bed. Don't try 70C as you won't need it if you get everything else right.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
Jump to the section on warping prints in the above guide and look at the photo of a proper brim (green).
Edited by GuestWhen I printed abs on my first printer I used to (apart of brim that helps a lot) add a 'mickey' ears to the corners. Also if you can change the design adding holes helps a lot. The more plastic the more tension while cools down. Also using less bottom layers and less infill helps. But in my experience the best was to use bluetape with hotbed and hairspray applied on the blue tape. It's really hard to remove the final print but it's safer than doing it directly over the glass since with big objects with hairspray you risk that the tension it's too hard that can break the cristal. With the blue tape you are safer since it will tear of the tape before damaging your glass. So if everything fails as last resort you can bluetape-hairspray-brim-mickey_ears. But get ready to have patience to pop it out since it will be seriously stuck.
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I have been using a product called BuildTak with great success for PLA. I have not tried it yet for ABS. The first sheet has lasted for many prints and the only issue so far is that if there is a large flat bottom surface, it can be a challenge to get the print off, so far though I have been successful using a putty knife and patience. Most parts release with no problem. Not once have I had a warp problem or premature release on small parts since I started using it.
I have been using BuildTak now for about a month and have found that it solves all of my warping/non-adherence problems! I love the stuff. BuildTak also sells a nice tool/spatula to help with removal of the print. I use a razor blade to get started, then use the spatula. Have to be careful with the razor blade though as I have ripped a few BuildTak's with it so far.
I have been using BuildTak now for about a month and have found that it solves all of my warping/non-adherence problems! I love the stuff. BuildTak also sells a nice tool/spatula to help with removal of the print. I use a razor blade to get started, then use the spatula. Have to be careful with the razor blade though as I have ripped a few BuildTak's with it so far.
Does the BuildTak actually wear out somehow? Or can it be reused infitintively as long as e.g. not dammaged by a razor blade or similar?
I spray a little Dimafix onto the clean glass bed and its great for PLA@60c and ABS@100-110c(it's really only meant for ABS, but works great for PLA on a heated bed).
It really locks the plastic to the bed, and only starts to release it once the bed temp drops below 40-50c. It also dissolves in water, which makes cleanup a lot easier than hair spray etc. I love the stuff, just ordered 2 more cans online last night which should do me for 6-12 months i think.
It's about €15 a can, which is a little high perhaps, but it does the job well.
When I first got my Ultimaker, I used the glue stick that came with it for PLA. Results were so-so on big pieces. After a while I tried UHU stic and that was superb, with the disadvantage that parts were difficult to remove. That was solved by either allowing the bed to cool to room temp or sticking it in the freezer.
For ABS I use ABS juice only. I have printed some seriously large parts with this (30 hours + prints) and had no warping issues. I used to close up the Ultimaker with paper everywhere, concertina-folded paper on top. I simply don't bother anymore, because my room does not have breezes running through it, so that might be a factor. ABS juice works for PLA as well.
The advantage of glue stick over ABS juice for PLA is that a coat of glue stick can last a week or two of printing. You can re-use any spot on the bed several times. ABS juice, on the other hand, comes off as a fine film with every print, so you have to recoat the used spot. Also, gluestick is far easier to apply than ABS juice which is messy and sticky.
For parts the size you are printing I do not use a brim. There is no reason not to, but your biggest concern is ensuring your parts has good adhesion to the print surface. Half of that is the adhesive, and the equally important half is getting an optimum first layer. They both take some experimenting. There is a wealth of information covering both these aspects on the forum. YMMV with most techniques (including mine of course) so be prepared to try several until you find something that works for you.
Does the BuildTak actually wear out somehow? Or can it be reused infitintively as long as e.g. not dammaged by a razor blade or similar?
I suppose it would eventually wear out, but my guess is that it would take quite some time to do so. As long as you can get the print off successfully, it should last quite a while. The key to getting the print off is the first layer. You've got to have your spacing (bed-leveling) done properly. May have to experiment with your setup a little to find a good height. I have been using a business card between the nozzle and the print bed.
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I spray a little Dimafix onto the clean glass bed and its great for PLA@60c and ABS@100-110c(it's really only meant for ABS, but works great for PLA on a heated bed).
It really locks the plastic to the bed, and only starts to release it once the bed temp drops below 40-50c. It also dissolves in water, which makes cleanup a lot easier than hair spray etc. I love the stuff, just ordered 2 more cans online last night which should do me for 6-12 months i think.
It's about €15 a can, which is a little high perhaps, but it does the job well.
Wow this stuff looks amazing. I will have to try it out. Do you have to clean the glass and re-spray for each print or can you re-use a spraying for a few prints?
buildTak does indeed break but it's cheap - something like 3 sheets for $15. And once you get good at it you can usually do a hundred prints without ripping it. I'm told.
I spray a little Dimafix onto the clean glass bed and its great for PLA@60c and ABS@100-110c(it's really only meant for ABS, but works great for PLA on a heated bed).
It really locks the plastic to the bed, and only starts to release it once the bed temp drops below 40-50c. It also dissolves in water, which makes cleanup a lot easier than hair spray etc. I love the stuff, just ordered 2 more cans online last night which should do me for 6-12 months i think.
It's about €15 a can, which is a little high perhaps, but it does the job well.
Wow this stuff looks amazing. I will have to try it out. Do you have to clean the glass and re-spray for each print or can you re-use a spraying for a few prints?
You can re-use it for a few prints. I usually give it a quick respray just to make sure it sticks.
When you need to clean the glass just take it off and run water over it and the stuff dissolves right away. So much easier than hair spray and the like.
is there anywhere in the US to purchase Dimafix?
Haha you guys should check out the instagram video i made avout bed adhesion. You can stick any number of fancy anythings on the bed. Bottom line blue tape and correct temperature gradient as you are leaving the base layers (adhesion layers) will solve the problem.
That video:
I'm having great succes with the buildtak "spatula" to remove my prints from the buildplate. (equipped with buildtak also)
https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-spatula/
This really is a great tool 
So I finally did it - I made a thorough video about how to keep your parts from warping and how to keep them from coming off the bed during a print. Please give it a like on youtube!
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kris 29
Hi
1. Allways use prim
2. Close up build volume ('green house)
3. Raise bed temperature to 110C
4. Turn of fan (in cura)
Constant and relatively high temperature inside the build volume is the key
Cheers
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