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Schweppes

Quality Prints

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Hello everyone,

I was printing this today and in the first sight, i tought it was a very good print. It is actually a good print but it has one or severe problems that i don't know how to fix it.

20150913_153522.thumb.jpg.ac04c3b1788e9152590db4f281d1db2a.jpg 5a33111266705_qualityprints.thumb.jpg.65978fa4e21cd6db7e321de339ee26d4.jpg

As you can see it is actually an "okay" print. I do like the quality, but the problem is this.

The bottem of my prints lay on rafts, i always get this bad quality.

20150913_154120.thumb.jpg.d1eaf38251c519cc359f2818f7d78351.jpg

So my question is, how can i avoid this? Do i need to raise the fill density? More build structure? Or is this happening because of my one sided fan duct isn't efficient enough?

I hope that someone could give me some advice.

With kind regards,

Schweppes

20150913_153522.thumb.jpg.ac04c3b1788e9152590db4f281d1db2a.jpg

5a33111266705_qualityprints.thumb.jpg.65978fa4e21cd6db7e321de339ee26d4.jpg

20150913_154120.thumb.jpg.d1eaf38251c519cc359f2818f7d78351.jpg

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Raft is an old technology. I never use it. Ever. It solves problems that we later solved with heat and blue tape and then even newer technology is glass with glue and heat. Only use raft in an emergency if you haven't figured out how to get parts to stick well.

Also be aware that you can rotate parts using cura for the best possible orientation which is to have the large square on the glass. However this part will not look good in *any* orientation - it is difficult to print perfect. There isn't any way to get this part perfect. Most/many parts you *can* get perfect.

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Agreed, you should always, if at all possible, try to print without rafts and support... These are bound to give bad surface quality in the spots where the raft/support touches the print...

I have printed that exact shroud standing on the large surface... Like in this picture:

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ce/dd/d1/33/5a/P1030634_thumb_large.jpg

...it does result in a nasty overhang, and mine did sag a bit, but not more that it could easily be sanded if you care alot about how your fan shroud looks

Edited by Guest

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I wish there was a "How to properly place objects on the print bed" tutorial out there. I run into this a lot with various parts and struggle to find the best orientation to use.

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And yes, given the angle of this model, it makes sense to print with the highest possible quality (0.01 layer thickness and velocity in the region of 15 mm/sec). Yes, it is a multiple of increases the duration of print, but you can get as close as possible to a predetermined smoothness of the surface.

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I love rafts! The people who use the UM for a while hate them, because they used to be very bad. At a certain point we *ahum* "stole" the settings from some other not to be named printer manufacturer which improved them a lot.

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When did the rafts "improve"....about what version?

Ivan, I have that same TIE fighter model but haven't printed it yet. How did it look when done?

Edited by Guest

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When did the rafts "improve"....about what version?

Ivan, I have that same TIE fighter model but haven't printed it yet.  How did it look when done?

 

Dunno yet. Just start to prith this beauty <3

Update: estimated time - 53 hours and 33 minutes.

Edited by Guest

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0.01 ?  Is that possible?

 

Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If  Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely002.thumb.jpg.95da291d68a7a0df1f042274d7e85109.jpg possible.

 

Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong...

You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account.

That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place.

If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint.

Edited by Guest

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0.01 ?  Is that possible?

 

Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If  Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely002.thumb.jpg.95da291d68a7a0df1f042274d7e85109.jpg possible.

 

Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong...

You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account.

That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place.

If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint.

 

I hate painting and any post processing so sometimes i print items at 0.04 and they come out super smooth and shiny and look better then 0.06. I agree that it has no benefit on some models but others can come out sweet. I have printed some at 0.02 and found you start to get some blemishes but this is probably just some of my settings.

If you are patient enough then I don't see a problem.

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When did the rafts "improve"....about what version?

Ivan, I have that same TIE fighter model but haven't printed it yet.  How did it look when done?

 

I dunno. It was a while ago (3+ months)

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0.01 ?  Is that possible?

 

Well, i print with thickness equal 0.02, and its work fine. If  Ollson block is installed with 0.15 mm nozzle, i think, 0.01 is absolutely002.thumb.jpg.95da291d68a7a0df1f042274d7e85109.jpg possible.

 

Ok... So I am not to tell you what you must/can and must not/can't do... I'm also not trying to be a prick, But this is IMO wrong...

You were never supposed to print 0.01 layer thickness on ANY FDM printer... I think the official absolute minimum for the UM family is 0.02, and frankly I find it to be just a stupid waste of time... The increase in quality you will get from say 0.06 mm., or even 0.1 mm. layers to the 0.02 mm. (or 0.01, if that is even possible) is so minor, especially when taking the massive extra time into account.

That is IF you even manage to calibrate your printer properly to do the 0.01-0.02 in the first place.

If you care a lot about making the finished part look not 3d printed at all, a few coats of primer on the 0.1 mm. layers will hide them completely and as a bonus make the print much easier to paint.

 

I hate painting and any post processing so sometimes i print items at 0.04 and they come out super smooth and shiny and look better then 0.06. I agree that it has no benefit on some models but others can come out sweet. I have printed some at 0.02 and found you start to get some blemishes but this is probably just some of my settings.

If you are patient enough then I don't see a problem.

 

My experience is that, not only do you prolong the print time, you also increase the risk of failure...

A lot of things can go wrong while printing (Power can go out, the printer can jam, filament get tangled, hotend clog, printer overheat and miss steps, girlfriend kills you because of the 50+ hours of humming noise etc. etc.)..

Some of these have increased risk of happening with increased time of printing... Others don't... And most, if not all, of them depend on what state of quality and reliability your printer is in.

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I agree that the seal thickness .04/.02/.01 in most cases redundant and unnecessary. IMHO, there are only two reason for its use: print a small (really small) parts with complex surface texture and something for themselves, if printer is free from external orders. And if you have a mood to do this, if course :)

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When did the rafts "improve"....about what version?

Ivan, I have that same TIE fighter model but haven't printed it yet.  How did it look when done?

 

I dunno. It was a while ago (3+ months)

 

If I remember correctly, in the Stacker3d group on Facebook was a post with a photo of the finished fighter.

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Hi you can improve the surface finish of inclined surfaces, printed without support, by using a larger nozzle. The first pic is with a 0.4mm nozzle and the second pic with a .8mm nozzle; same print settings. The extra line width gives more support to the next layer.

5a3311cfcc3ff_greyoverhangbad.thumb.jpg.b78c8add536c35faeed2ff5208c5c12b.jpg

5a3311d0050e6_greyoverhanggood.thumb.jpg.bd8b35c20257905f38bc287daeff6a2a.jpg

5a3311cfcc3ff_greyoverhangbad.thumb.jpg.b78c8add536c35faeed2ff5208c5c12b.jpg

5a3311d0050e6_greyoverhanggood.thumb.jpg.bd8b35c20257905f38bc287daeff6a2a.jpg

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