And make sure the block is not touching the metal fan shroud.
What you can do to check the PT-100 is (with it out of the block).
Go to the heatup nozzle on your printer (don't heat it up or you'll destroy the heater cartridge). It's just to show the read temperature.
When cold it should read the room temperature.
Then put the sensor in your hand and it should show the temperature rising
no need to take it out for that... it will also read room temperature when it's in the block
there's also a video out here somewhere for testing at higher temp, but I can't find it now...
Oh yes i forgot to mention that ^^
The video for temp testing:
Thanks for all your advise
I had a test print going yesterday and it was pretty awful I then noticed this
I thought it was my fault I tightened the nozzle while it was cold and thought the leakage was coming from the nozzle insertion point
I striped and cleaned the unit and re installed a new nozzle
I made sure the the nozzle was tight at 200d I fed some material through approximately 200mm worth and this is what I found
I take it that its leaking some how from the temp probe or possibly throughout the screw fixing
I know its not good. will order a new one and try again the learning curve is steep.
just fed some more material through before I strip it and the leakage is definitely coming from behind the Philips screw.
I would guess it's because you did not put enough pressure on the teflon/spring replacement tube...
also this may be usefull...
ok got it all apart to clean / replace Heter probe came out with some heat and is covered with PLA is that normal, my only problem is the pt100 can't move it at all it is solid I can see some PLA on the top of it. Amy suggestions on how to move it.
how does that effect the leaking internally from the Olson Block I can easily put the spring back in, just want to understand the processes going on?
any help/advise greatly appreciated
Anders Olsson 136
I have never seen anything like it.
It simply can not leak there. There has to be a major manufacturing error on that block.
I was curious about that "ring" around the threaded part on your blocks surface by the way, so I did some destructive testing.
It turns out that I got a similar ring, which I first thought was deformation after heavily over-tightening the nozzle.
However it seems the "ring" in my case was just scratches from the 7 mm socket. The nozzle nozzle breaks at about 6 Nm, compared to the 0.3-0.5 Nm the torque wrench would give, and the block still seems undamaged.
Contact the dealer where you bought it to get a new one! (and maybe return the broken one for inspection, if it's not too much work for you, I am sure you can get some free things in return)
You should be able to insert a 1.6 mm hex key through the slotted hole to push the sensor out by the way.
Thank you for you input
The ring is that the faint outline around the nozzle insert point.? Or is it the star. Around the 3mm hole (Philips screw) the pt100 is stuck solid the only way to get it out is to destroy it I suspect.
Thank you for your feedback.
Can you put the block over a candle and heat the block up? Then slowly wiggle that probe out?
Maybe try heating the block if there's a leak it might have stuck the PT-100 also... i'd suggest heating up then shutting down the printer and try to remove the pt-100 while still hot.
Don't leave the block heating or you might destroy the heat cartridge if it heats up without a correct reading from the temp sensor
I very much doubt it's actually leaking from that hole. What I think happened here is that you had a leak around the nozzle threads which caused that big build up in the first picture. Some of that melted plastic managed to leak into the two slotted holes on the underside of the printer. After you cleaned and re-assembled the block, some plastic was still left inside those slotted holes and started leaking out as the block heated up.
Like Anders said, there's no way for plastic to get into that part of the block from the inside unless something went very wrong during manufacturing.
You were leaking around the nozzle, this Olsson block is somewhat finicky when it comes to tensions/torques. When I torqued the nozzle tip as instructed I got plenty of material leakage through he threads of the nozzle tip that eventually carbonized. I had to tighten it while heated up and problem was solved.
Also, to clean that block, clamp it or hold it out while using a lighter ( you don't need extreme temps ) and it will slowly melt and ooze out all of that material in there. Careful not to hit the wires and try popping out the temp gauge and heater element while its still warm. Comes out buttery smooth ( usually ).
To clean the tip of carbonization I grab a little propane torch and burn it all out then soak in acetone for a few hours. Comes out brand spanking new after a little wire brushing on the outside.
Hi All thank you for your comments BUT
The leakage was not from the nozzle entry point, I originally thought that as in the 1st picture. I blamed myself so I cleaned it the first nozzle was a complete mess. the picture below the gummed up picture show the nozzle unit cleaned but with 200mm of material moved and I watched the PLA steeping from beneath the screw head more than that picture shows. This is when I knew I had a serious problem. I am now told it was The Spacer as "Ultiarjan" said and I did not wind the steel coupler back to put it under pressure , So I presume it is still my fault, I do not know which is correct, I am Not 3dGuru or Boffin I learn by my mistakes so will take this as my Fault.
BUT i don't understand why that should make a difference to where it is ultimately Oozing from. I do know the heater was covered in PLA and I do know the pt100 is stuck solid with PLA the 3mm Philips screw is Plastered with PLA, as in the picture and in the same picture the star is stuck with PLA behind it.
I started this thread off by asking why my Heater should have to go up to 195 instead of where I usually print 175 and why my print seems not to be closing as in the fist picture,
i suspect it was because it started to leak fairly soon and it was under extruding 95% being extruded 5% leakage the heater being covered in PLA and was having to work harder
the leak was not noticeable as the fan shroud covered it until it was to late.
A learning curve for me I will replace the Block and the pt100 and put this down to experience????
Bob...we're learning along with you!
I learn by my mistakes
I'm shure thats how we all do it
Most of us had to pay for there mistakes at some point by getting new spares...
Ok Thanks for that But before I go and rebuild everything just wanted to check that this is normal for the Olson block I cleaned some of it up and still can't get temp Probe out but this is what I found under the Star
First the Heater side
Then The Temp Probe side
just checking this is normal all comments appreciated. And Valued..
Yes thats normal, it's the point of this screw to hold the heater and temp sensor.
There should not be any opening between the slots of the temp sensor and heater holes and the hole that keeps the nozzle, but I assume thats not the case, as mentioned by others that would be a real big and unlikely manufacturing error...
Thank you I am going to clean this up and rebuild will leave the pt100 in place
thanks for the reply.
And don't forget to make it tight enough to get a feel for the needed pressure just feel the pressure of the original spring...
I think the leaking filament was not a major problem. The major problem here is that you used to print at 175C and now you probably need to print at 220C (the default printing temp for PLA with a fresh UM2).
The temp sensors very quite a bit - the original one you had was almost surely defective. I get a lot of these and I test each one at 260C (I distribute the ones for 3dsolex in the USA). It's common for them (one in 10) to be off by 9C and worse. And in both directions. And the ones from UM I believe are not tested at all. So you probably got one that measured very low such that what you thought was 175C was actually closer to 200C. Now you probably have a good one and you need to print closer to 200C to 210C from now on.
You can test it out with my video above. It's a more accurate test than you might think! I edited the video down very quick.
But of course when I test temp probes I have a much more accurate test - I have a chunk of aluminum with one hole for a heater and 2 holes for sensors. One sensor is my reference sensor and I use that and a UM2 to heat the aluminum to 260C. I insert the sensor to be tested in the other hole and let the temp balance for a minute and then measure the resistance, look up the measured temp in a PT100 table and write it down. Most temp sensor are accurate +/- 3C. I don't sell the ones off by > 5C.
You should check if the pt100 is showing the correct temperature and you should make sure pt100 and the heater are fully put into the Olsson block (as indicated in the instructions on the 3dSolex website).
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