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Danieljenzen

3D Solex Matchless, tricks and tips please!

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Hello! I have a UM2, and think about upgrading to this "Matchless Block" i've heard alot about recently.

I am wondering if anyone has experience with atomic Pulls regarding these.

How does it work when the Matchless nozzles have this kinda "mechanism" inside?

I'ts kinda new so im hoping someone have already tried it!

Also, anyone have experience printing with 1.5mm nozzle? Is it possible and is it worth it?

Thanks you in advance :)

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Cool!

Cold pull is over rated anyway. I rarely do it anymore. I mean it can help quite a bit but only on rare occasions. Back when we had the non-olsson blocks and couldn't easily remove the nozzle it was essential. But when you can just unscrew the nozzle you don't need cold pull so much anymore. Just put it in a flame and burn the hell out of anything in there. Or throw the nozzle away (I have never had to throw away a nozzle yet).

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Hi,

i use the coldpull every time i change the nozzle or the color / material.

It happend to me that on a big white object for a customer i had a big red spot during midprint from the former print, so i had to throw the object away.

Also when i change from colorfabb xt to pla i pull the rest of the xt with the pla out.

And since i do it everytime, no carbonized material is building up, that has to be burned out.

cheers Jan

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Just put it in a flame and burn the hell out of anything in there.  Or throw the nozzle away (I have never had to throw away a nozzle yet).

 

Interesting. I was going to ask about torching nozzles but was not sure the reaction that I would get (like...WHAT ARE YOU NUTS!?!?). I still to cold pulls as I think they help the boundary area between the nozzle and the coupler but once in a while I have been known to torch a nozzle until it is glowing hot. Seems to cure all evils. Was wondering about the impact of de-tempering though I assume this would take quite a few torchings to have an impact? Or does temper even matter with a nozzle?

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They turn black and occasionally lose a few black specks of dust while printing which is not that useful...
Well, yes. I have to admit that after I burn it out I do one cold pull but not on the printer - just using a 10cm piece of nylon filament and I do it over the stove. I use water to gauge when it's at 100C then heat for 20 seconds more, remove from heat, insert nylon such that some comes out the tip - hold the nylon in there under pressure for a long time (it heats faster than it cools - I should memorize the seconds but I have only done this 3 times ever) and then cold pull it out at around 130C hopefully.

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I did not have great success with burning nozzles. They turn black and occasionally lose a few black specks of dust while printing which is not that useful...

 

I have not had the specks issue and I have done a dozen or so nozzles....nor have my nozzles turned black.... How hot do you get them? I take mine up to glowing and keep them there until they look "clean" (5-10 seconds past glowing). When they cool down they are uniformly grey. I use a creme brûlée torch from the kitchen and it works a charm. I do try to let the plastic inside the nozzle run out when I first start to torch em.

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After installation of the MB, I noticed more stringing was present than there had been with the OB (This was using a gcode file that had been dialed-in to work well with the OB). I dropped the nozzle temp 3C and sped up the print speed 25%. That combination seems to have created the same quality of prints I was getting with the OB.

My first impression: The MB makes my system more efficient and faster. The one part of the OB that I may miss at some point are the little holes on the underside. They helped me remove the PT100 from my OB without need for any pulling, A paperclip pushed that stubborn part right out

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MB = block v3? Let's maybe abbreviate BV3 instead. Some terminology:

Matchless nozzles: All newer nozzles - all of them are chrome plated except the 2mm one.

Race nozzles: Some of the Matchless nozzles are also "Race" meaning they have that internal structure to heat up the filament more thoroughly. The smaller nozzles (<=.25mm) don't have or need that and for 1.75mm filament it's probably not needed for the .4mm nozzles either (time and testing will decide I suppose).

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Just installed the new 3Dsolex block, and obviously had to try the 2mm (!!) nozzle first....

Realize that with 2mm and 0.5 layer hight .... your volumetric speed gets insane very fast....

2mmNozzle.thumb.jpg.6a288f9d69e3c8dd72ca218cbd40a224.jpg

Installed it on a machine with the 2+ upgrade kit, so I guess this only has the 25 Watt heater (can anybody confirm?) it could not cope.... speed 22mm3/s Temp set 240c, Temp reached (and stable) 233c.

Will try the smaller nozzles first I guess... but will have to upgrade... just to much fun to play with the 2mm.

ChromeBlock2.thumb.jpg.2447eb8b997976d26276a582815ddc4a.jpg

edit: continue to play a bit... with the fans down to 65% it's reaching the 240c ... will try speeding up and lowering the temp a bit (PLA)...

edit2, the temperature will not be the problem.... you really need to slow down as the huge layers don't get time to cool enough otherwise.... this will need a lot more tweaking/playing around to get some result...

2mmNozzle.thumb.jpg.6a288f9d69e3c8dd72ca218cbd40a224.jpg

ChromeBlock2.thumb.jpg.2447eb8b997976d26276a582815ddc4a.jpg

Edited by Guest
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IMPORTANT APPLICATION NOTE:

V3 BLOCK from 3D Solex may leak! Unfortunately, Some custiomers have received a V3 Block, where the top around the filament entry hole (where the steel couplers is entered), is shiny and "chromey".

In this case there is an increased chance of leak between the Teflon and the Block V3, unfortunately.

If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.

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