My Ultimaker 2+ Extended turns itself off then restarts

[Shane 3]

My machine, during heat up before a print will suddenly shut down then restart as if the power switch

had turned off and on. I went into maintenance and manually heated the nozzle, raised and lowered the bed, and performed the bed leveling process with no problems. Tried to print again and same problem. while heating the bed, right before the nozzle started to heat it shut down then restarted. Any help would be appreciated.

Edited August 1, 2016 by Guest

[DidierKlein 729]

Does it do the same with any file you select?

[johank 7]

My guess is the power adapter can't deliver enough juice when the heated bed comes on.

Try if turning the heat bed off will allow you to start a print.

[neotko 1,417]

Have you check the power brick? Just to be sure you have the correct model, and not the um2go model.

This it's the one you should have GS220A24-R7B (220W 24V R7B plug):

[Shane 3]

I tried a few different prints. All with the same problem. Started a print and tuned the bed temp down. While changing the bed temp the machine shut down. Loaded a new print file with bed temps off and this worked. The machine actually started to print. I've included a pic of my power source. Any ideas on what would cause this.

THanks Everybody I sincerely appreciate the Help.

[IRobertI 521]

It could be a bad power supply but it could also be a short somewhere on the pcb, connector at the bed, connector at the control board or the wires themselves. As soon as the printer starts trying to heat up the bed the power supply gets shorted out and shuts off.

[neotko 1,417]

That happened once to me. It was a heater that was almost dead.

First I got random shutdowns, then they occurred after 1-2mins into print and in the end as soon as I heated the hotend the power did shutdown.

It's there anyway with a tester to know if a heater it's working right/wrong?

Also it might just be a cable that isn't properly secured on the board?

[Shane 3]

Heating elements can be checked by measuring the resistance between the two wires. I don't

know what the reading should be. I need a reading from a good one to compare. Did anybody notice my pic. The number of my power brick doesn't match the pic neotko posted.

I'll check the resistance on the heater for the bed and post this. I've only had the machine for about 2 months. Does anybody know if this is covered under the 1 year warranty.

[Shane 3]

I measured the resistance first at the board and then disconnected the wires and measured them. In both instances I measured 3.2 ohms. Does anybody have a reading to compare.

[IRobertI 521]

That sounds normal. I've measured a few beds and they're usually around 3.5Ohm.

[neotko 1,417]

I think GST220 it's just a new version of the power brick, but the watts and everything else it's just perfect. I'll check a 25W heater that I have at home.

[Shane 3]

Just finished reading some older post and found one with the exact symptoms.

The lights start to flicker then the power goes out. That's how mine started. In the post they claimed to have replaced the motherboard and build plate to no avail. They were advised

to replace the power supply but didn't say if this worked. Anybody remember the post and remedy.

[neotko 1,417]

Just to be sure. You can heat the bed but when the nozzle heats, it shutdowns. Or you can heat both and sometime after it shutdowns? Have you try to heat just bed and wait X amount of time and then turn it off (the bed) and just turn the hotend and wait again to see which one it's the one making the off/on ? (ofc if you try this try to have the hotend without filament with an atomic pull so you don't burn filament inside the nozzle)

Also, if you do the hotend test, try to set the fans at max, so the hotend must use as much power as possible to stay at the temp.

Maybe this can help to pinpoint the origin?

Btw I did check my 24W heater (not plugged) and it reads 25.4 ohms (maybe I did something wrong with the reading since I know very little about electricity resistance and ohms)

Edited August 2, 2016 by Guest

[Shane 3]

I'll check again in about an hour. Currently I've got the machine pulled apart. I pulled the build plate and checked the connections, resistance in the wires and all looks good. No resistance or damaged wires. Checked voltage at the power terminal on the board. I've got 24.1V.

I'm going to reassemble and try again. I'll get back to you shortly. thanks for the help.

[tommyhlc 0]

We are having the same problem with an Ultimaker 2+. We bought it in 2016, the first year was good but since last year it shuts randomly during the heatup or in the middle of printing...  

The sale agent said it's because some area's power is not stable. They claim the machine runs long time test without problem in their office where is other town from ours.(Though I really doubt about it...)

So they might send back the machine without doing anything.... But I'm afraid the problem happens again and we can do nothing but send it back to the agent again...

Is it really the area's power supply to blame? If it really is then the Ultimaker company should declare like "Due to some countries's power supply not qualified to our standards, it's not recommended to buy in some countries..."

I've never seen any electric devices use any reason like this to answer their customer's questions. It's simply ridiculous.

Hope Ultimaker guys can notice this message and do something about it.

[gr5 2,228]

It could be the power cable isn't all the way in - make sure it snaps in and when you tug on the cable it won't come out unless you slide the connector first.

 

Or it could be the power supply.  I have many meanwell power supplies for my various Ultimaker printers and some of the supplies are better than others and they can get old and start failing.  I recommend you buy a new one on the internet but make sure you get the GS model and not the GST because the GS puts out just a little bit more power (the GST is more efficient but puts out a little less power).  Both types put out more than their stated power normally but the GS has a larger margin.

 

Meanwell power supplies.  

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B
 

Or you could by a larger power supply that can suply more power (24V and 300W would be good) and then cut the cable and solder the cable from your existing supply to the new supply.

[mayo77 5]

I just wanted to chime in here. I was having the same issues. This is what i recommend. Check if Just the heated bed or just the head is the issue. I heated my bed up had no issues, tried the head it shorted out instantly, so i knew it was a head issue.

 

Turns out it seemed to be the heater cartridge cord (longer and thicker of the two chords plugged into the olsson block on ultimaker 2)  was rubbing against the fan shroud on the back of the head, it worn through and was shorting out. I just bend the fan shroud down so it wasn't rubbing that cord, and the problem disappeared. Didn't have to replace nothing, its been working fine now for a few hours. WIll update if it comes back. (if i dont write back this is my solution)