As Valcrow states, the pros for a heated bed are many...
I have an UMO as well, which I after a year or so started to take apart completely and heavily modify. Amongs those mods are a heated bed, and I have not looked back since.
Now, this was back before the official Heatbed upgrade was announced, and I spent a lot of time researching how to best (and cheapest) do my own.
The main problem with the UMO is that its power supply is not strong enough to pull both printer and a typical ~100W heated bed.
Second the mosfets for the heatbed output as well as the boards main Vin port are not rated for the currents that a good heatbed will typically draw, and many people back then reported that these components failed when they had tried a heatbed install anyways... Along came the UMO+ and the official upgrade kit for the UMO, and problem solved right?
... Well not quite, as you mentioned yourself, the kit is quite expensive... Luckily, there is no reason why you shouldn't do a homemade upgrade just like people did before the official kit, thereby learning alot of stuff and saving some money...
Sure you don't get a completely new z-stage as with the kit, and you have to mess with stuff yourself. But if that dosn't scare you off, I think its still not a bad way to go.
I'd be happy to point you to some guides here on the forum, as well as tell you the way I went about it.
- Regardless of your choice, I think a heatbed is worth it, it is by far the best upgrade I have done.Edited by Guest
It's hard to answer if it's worth it for you since like you said, you could buy a printer for that price. However I can tell you the advantages having used a UMO for a while and then a UMO+ for a short while before going to UM2.
The UM2 and UMO+ has the same platform so the user experience is pretty much the same except that the UM2 homes on the bottom and the UMO, the top.
-MUCH more hands off. If you're printing PLA, it will stick when hot and let go when cold. Which allows you to setup prints back to back without doing anything to the bed. Super convenient, I can't over state this after mucking around with blue tape.
-Makes your bottoms flatter and smoother. If you ever combine prints or halve them, a heated bed will make the seam MUCH smaller since the edges will be less warped and surface flatter.
-Glass is very flat. Which makes it easier to level.
-3 point leveling instead of 4 point via thumb screws. a HUUUGGEE improvement over the UMO leveling. And no accidental crushing of your hex driver while trying to level as it prints.
-Much more solid flatform than the UMO
-Heated bed expands your material options.
Basically it makes the whole z-stage into a UM2 z-stage. which is very handy and nice. I think if you're looking to not mess with your tape anymore, a heated glass bed is the way to go. The ONLY thing that glass is not as good for is very small footprint tall prints. Tape + alcohol is still the best option for that. And you can still do that by applying tape to the glass.
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