Did anyone try the new Advanced 3D Printing Kit?

[valcrow 145]

Hello,

First time posting on the forum. I have UM2+ that I have been playing with for about a month. I tried out the adhesion sheets with PLA and had similar problems as above with too much adhesion. The part had a fairly large footprint and it simply would not release. Eventually I was able to scrape the part off.

Is a water soak the best option for removing the damaged sheet (and adhesive)? I tried acetone, IPA, and goo-gone with mixed results. Eventually I was able to remove most of it but it took a lot of time and plenty of elbow grease. Is there a "recommended" procedure for removing the sheets?

 

Don't use the sheets with PLA or ABS, I've tried most of the materials and it works best for Nylon and polycarbonate. If you level just a touch further than normal, you part should stick very well, but it should be removable without destroying the sheet with a palette knife or similar.

PLA/ABS and sometimes CPE will bond so well onto the sheet that you're almost guarenteed to rip it off and you'll have to sand it off the bottom of your part and replace the label.

As for removing the sheet it's best to soak in water for a bit, and then start at a corner and peel it under water. You should be able to get most of the sheet and adhesive off like that unless you have holes all over your sheet.

If you have leftover adhesion, scrape the glue underwater with a palette knife and it should do the trick.

When applying the sheets, always use a bit of water. it makes it MUCH easier with less bubble mess.

[AreDigg 8]

I got my advanced 3d printing kit today.

 

Really, that's the sheets? Those are readily available in many office supply stores. I have been looking for something better than buildtak for nylon filament. I will try these.

[SwippE 1]

 

I got my advanced 3d printing kit today.

 

Really, that's the sheets? Those are readily available in many office supply stores. I have been looking for something better than buildtak for nylon filament. I will try these.

 

Yes that's the sheets. I have tested ultimaker PC and one smal print with nylon, and it works.

[DeathMachine 23]

Hello,

First time posting on the forum. I have UM2+ that I have been playing with for about a month. I tried out the adhesion sheets with PLA and had similar problems as above with too much adhesion. The part had a fairly large footprint and it simply would not release. Eventually I was able to scrape the part off.

Is a water soak the best option for removing the damaged sheet (and adhesive)? I tried acetone, IPA, and goo-gone with mixed results. Eventually I was able to remove most of it but it took a lot of time and plenty of elbow grease. Is there a "recommended" procedure for removing the sheets?

 

Check you heat range, too hot and it way harder to get off. I've been having good luck with hair spray with abs. There is such a thing as too much glue. so light coats.

[xperiment 0]

I also received my adhesions sheets (without door, plate). And after the first test with PLA the prints are strongly(!!!) sticking on the plate. No way to remove them without destroying the sheet. Got anyone a hint for removing PLA prints from the plate?

[SandervG 1,521]

Different materials need different adhesives. That is the reason that we have these adhesion sheets, because not everything sticks on glass. The same goes the other way around, not every material needs an adhesion sheet. PLA sticks to glass just fine, the heat should provide enough adhesion. Alternatively, if your print is bigger you can add some glue and that should be it.

Best tip for removing PLA print from the plate; don't use the adhesion sheet and just go for heat with glue.