New firmware, new problems

[avluis 2]

Thought I would get some prints done today but instead I'm dealing with this:

Video Link

Note that I'm using Cura 2.3.1.

Is there any way to revert the firmware so that I can get back to printing?

----

Update:

X/Y Calibration re-done. Got the following:

"Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values." after it performed its automatic leveling, so I went ahead and performed a quick Z offset calibration, restarted the printer and sent the print job once again.

Currently printing, but this is worrying.

Edited January 7, 2017 by Guest

[markus_oswald 0]

i had a similar problem

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35700-auto-level-failure

they have some problems with the firmware I think :)everything works but its not fail safe...

Edited January 8, 2017 by Guest

[tomnagel 124]

The problem is most probably caused by your bed being too high. When the probing starts, the bed is already against the nozzle, or too close.

We decided to shorten the active leveling procedure by starting closer to the nozzle. A bed that is set nominally starts 2.5mm (by heart) from the nozzle. At least 0.5mm distance is required at the start. So a bed may be 2mm higher than nominal.

Lower your bed by using the knurled nuts under the bed, and you will probably see it works again.

The nominal position of the bed: there is 14mm distance between the top of the base plate and the bottom of the heater plate.

[avluis 2]

IMO, the bed auto leveling should agree with prior calibration performed when the printer was set up or when it is requested from the calibration menu.

Is it intentional to not have these two similar features agree with one another or should I avoid even setting my z-offset and just lower my bed manually?

On another note, what is with all the cold pulling with the new firmware -- it speeds things up I guess...

[neo-ninja 1]

Im now getting this issues since the update too, i cant solve it i have tried tighting all the nuts , how do you measure that 14mm its impossible as you cant see it very clearly. 

 

Has anyone resolved this?

[fbrc8-erin 267]

Make sure your bed springs are tightened so that the heated plate is about even with the top lip of the highest part of the base plate at the front. I've got some pictures here demonstrating what I mean.

Edit: I've attached the photo now.

Edited January 9, 2018 by fbrc8-erin
Attaching photo

[neo-ninja 1]

Great thats really helpful actually.

Thank you!

 

[neo-ninja 1]

Hey all,

Just on this. I have had this issue again. i have had the printer for months now, and never had this issue. Then the firmware updates and i have to spend some time fanying around with it all. 

 

Its making me think this latest firmware is a bit dodgy.

[fbrc8-erin 267]

I haven't had any issues with active leveling with this version of the firmware. How is your bed height?

[neo-ninja 1]

As per your picture. Maybe its the back screw. How do you have that?

[fbrc8-erin 267]

Tighten the back one down until it's about level with your front ones. 

[IRobertI 516]

I just uploaded this little tool which makes it easier to set the proper distance:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool

 

Not my design, I got it from UM in a service update a long time ago.

[neo-ninja 1]

Hey Robert, This looks great. Do you know where the Arrow should go top or bottom?

 

[neotko 1,417]

Nobody find funny that a patent autolevel system, needs manual adjustments to even work right? I mean, is quite funny ? 

[kmanstudios 1,120]

43 minutes ago, neotko said:

Nobody find funny that a patent autolevel system, needs manual adjustments to even work right? I mean, is quite funny ? 

Actually, I find it necessary due to the limited mechanics under the build plate. i.e. no cantilevers or 4 point corner control systems to counter the affects of things like banging buildplates because a part has seriously curled and gets hit and bounces the buildplate a lot or when it gets shifted during the removal or placement of the glass. Also, even the most precision machines such as automobiles, need manual adjustment even with all the doodads under the hood that are taking over the travel world.

 

Of course, I come from a time when even the best electronics had to be manually dealt with such as, and I am not kidding, picking up a computer console a few inches and dropping it to make sure that chips and other PCB parts reseated themselves properly. The 80's were a fun time in computers.

[neotko 1,417]

26 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

Actually, I find it necessary due to the limited mechanics under the build plate. i.e. no cantilevers or 4 point corner control systems to counter the affects of things like banging buildplates because a part has seriously curled and gets hit and bounces the buildplate a lot or when it gets shifted during the removal or placement of the glass. Also, even the most precision machines such as automobiles, need manual adjustment even with all the doodads under the hood that are taking over the travel world.

 

Of course, I come from a time when even the best electronics had to be manually dealt with such as, and I am not kidding, picking up a computer console a few inches and dropping it to make sure that chips and other PCB parts reseated themselves properly. The 80's were a fun time in computers.

 

80s where a fun time indeed. Specially the hair styles

 

Anyway, now more on a real and productive way, they told me about this issue the first time UM invited me to beta the um3 at their offices. Why this isn't just printed on a paper? Like, IF FAILS, ADJUST THE BOTTOM TENSION. I mean, ofc this issue probably only pops on a 1-2% of the scenarios so isn't worth fixing it. But, if it's an know issue of the autolevel, then... Well, then writing it down on a start manual shouldn't be so incredible complex... 

 

Allright, back to work, cheers!

[neotko 1,417]

On 16/1/2018 at 5:05 PM, neo-ninja said:

Hey Robert, This looks great. Do you know where the Arrow should go top or bottom?

 

 

By the photo of the youmagine the arrows up & down are to show the gap between. The print area without any arrow goes on top of the bed like on the photo of youmagine (arrow is on both sides so you can use it on both corners of the bed I assume).

Edited January 20, 2018 by neotko

[kmanstudios 1,120]

41 minutes ago, neotko said:

 

80s where a fun time indeed. Specially the hair styles

 

Anyway, now more on a real and productive way, they told me about this issue the first time UM invited me to beta the um3 at their offices. Why this isn't just printed on a paper? Like, IF FAILS, ADJUST THE BOTTOM TENSION. I mean, ofc this issue probably only pops on a 1-2% of the scenarios so isn't worth fixing it. But, if it's an know issue of the autolevel, then... Well, then writing it down on a start manual shouldn't be so incredible complex... 

 

Allright, back to work, cheers!

Hey....the hair styles were fun Kinda like the pants I used to wear in the 60's...the colors and patterns were so outrageous that they did not even match to themselves   Ahhhh, fun times indeed....if you need a quick refresher check this out. Dig those groovy pants Mick is wearing at the top.

 

Yeah, I get what you say about putting information on. One thing I noticed throughout the years is that all manufacturers should consult educators about their manuals and information sharing.