fbrc8-erin 302
Hi, gardnert, that definitely doesn't look good. Since you're in the US, reach out to our team at Support@fbrc8.com.
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Hi, gardnert, that definitely doesn't look good. Since you're in the US, reach out to our team at Support@fbrc8.com.
Hi, gardnert, that definitely doesn't look good. Since you're in the US, reach out to our team at Support@fbrc8.com.
Thanks! Our original vendor pointed us to you, small world! The return/replacement process is already underway. Thanks for the heads up!
Glad to hear it!
Mine broke around the screw, the local dealer 'Creative tools' here in Halmstad Sweden say they don't have it as spare part, just the hole print core.
Mine broke around the screw, the local dealer 'Creative tools' here in Halmstad Sweden say they don't have it as spare part, just the hole print core.
that is correct, you'd replace the whole printcore. replacing this 1 part is a total pain and it's better to just replace the core.
Agreed. You wouldn't want to take it apart, and getting a whole new print core only sounds like a better deal, no?
Hello,
You can print a new one!
The file is on GitHub
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3
file is: 2129-F
STEP to transform into STL or you can download from below!
Original Tab is Polycarbonate (PC). Print it in CPE or in CPE+ and it won't stress crack anymore and it will be almost transparent.
PC stress-cracks under stress when in contact with oil...
Enjoy!
Edited by ludo06On 9/19/2017 at 1:33 PM, SandervG said:Agreed. You wouldn't want to take it apart, and getting a whole new print core only sounds like a better deal, no?
Shame on you for this comment. It is wrong in so many ways (economically, environmentally, customer-friendlines,...). But yes, you can also behave like apple and let the customers pay for your bad design choices.
@ludo06
Thanks for the upload. I have already 3 cracked tabs and replaced them with 3D printed ABS versions.
I have modified the original tab (see the attachments for the stl) to be more rigid with more material in the screw head area by switching to a countersunk screw hole. I have also removed the chamfer at the top for better printability.
If somebody wants to use it, you need to also order a M2.5x40 screw countersunk screw.
Tip: Print the tab with the 0.25 nozzle and use ABS. Dont use nylon or similar soft material. It is too soft and will bend under constant load from the spring.
Edited by mkaj2019Great tips!
Has anyone tried to print the print core frame yet? I have refurbished an old core that needed a new nozzle, but its frame was also warped. Debating about options there.
Thanks again!
John
On 7/27/2021 at 8:43 PM, JohnInOttawa said:Great tips!
Has anyone tried to print the print core frame yet? I have refurbished an old core that needed a new nozzle, but its frame was also warped. Debating about options there.
Thanks again!
John
I haven't tried it. How warped is this frame, can you bend it back?
On 7/23/2021 at 4:01 PM, mkaj2019 said:
Shame on you for this comment. It is wrong in so many ways (economically, environmentally, customer-friendlines,...). But yes, you can also behave like apple and let the customers pay for your bad design choices.
I think the comment was posted aiming to the OP who got a replacement for free, it is supposed to be sarcastic/funny. Why replace when you get a free core.
But, indeed, from economical/environmental point of view it is better to replace parts. Note that there are shops that refurbish cores, you send in the core and get a replacement (actually you receive the core first and a return label for the broken core).
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neotko 1,417
Hi and welcome!
Nice you enjoy this machine. About the core plaatic broken, I don't see anything wrong here on your side, you should be able to get a replacement from your UM reseller.
Unless someone sees it otherwise?
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