If you know the current draw/power usage you should be able to find an inverter that will work. That would avoid having to do anything but plug it in. A quick search turned up a 1250 watt inverter for $70 US. My Ender 3 Pro is only 270 watts.
I have an inverter on board that supplies AC voltage. But the inverter uses power as does the PSU. So I would like to go straight from boat's 24v DC. The power brick for the U2G is 24v so I guess I just need a 4 pin DIN connected correctly!
MM
so has anyone managed to use a normal 100x100 heater for the bed on this thing? most of the one i seen use 100k ntc and not pt100
I bought my heated bed from Gr5 on this forum. It works fine. You'd have to ask him directly for its specification
TM
So to resurrect this thread..........
I would like to be able to print flexible material on my UM2Go+ and having had real problems on my UM3 I think I need a direct drive feeder and can put one onto the UM2GO+. I have been in discussion with the guy at Ultimaker – Flex3Drive One thing I'd need to do is also the firmware for the pin settings. Is it correct that this means editing the HEX file itself? How easy is this to do???
THanks
TM
Easy for some. Hard for others. For me it would take several hours because I've only done it a few times. The "hex file" is the firmware. It's a version of Marlin. Probably 80% of all 3d printers use marlin and a few years ago it was probably 99%. There are many forks of Marlin.
It sounds like you have to edit the source code. I don't know what edits you need to do. That might be the easy part or the hardest part. But then you have to compile Marlin. That's the part that would take me a few hours to install everything and figure it all out. Instructions are here:
By the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.
Thanks gr5. I have seen that some people made a little sponge holder and wet the sponge with lubricant. Then the filament runs over the sponge to get a film of lubricant. I am going to make my own. Can I ask which oil you use?
Edit: I have found the post where you give details
Thanks
Edited by medicalmodeller
Referencing the fitment of the Flex3Drive Ultimaker version to the UM2GO. I have downloaded and looked at the TinkerGnome code and its pretty much the same as for any UM2 machine in terms of just swapping the pin numbers between the Z and E0 axis to take advantage of the x8 microstepping on the Z axis (through setting of J5 jumper).
Code changes for this are very straight forward and simple/minimal to swap axis pins in pins.h, but having not looked at TinkerGnome before (although it was on the list a while back) I can see there are #ifdef's for UM2GO for setting bed size and bowden tube lengths, which hints to me compile will be as simple as selecting the UM2GO #define however, I cannot find this "#define" so it suggests to me (being completely new to TinkerGnome) there is a compiler switch or setting outside of the code base itself that determines compile option for UM2GO. Is this correct?
I will look at the instructions for compiling as my initial compile attempt with Arduino IDE threw an operator error, as well still being in the dark about setting for UM2GO option. What is the best or easiest way to compile TinkerGnome? My initial skim over the instructions suggests a different compiler is required, but a skim on the forum also indicated Arduino IDE will do it too. Or alternatively could anyone compile it for us given the simplicity of the changes in pins.h if they can compile it easily?
TIA for any tips suggestions on this as I would like to set TinkerGnome on my own machines too.
(BTW cheeky note 🙂 Ive just launched a new 4into1 multi filament solution compatible with almost any OS 3d prnter - see website flex3drive.com) - it could potentially fit a UM2 machine aswell with some modification and addition of 2 extra driver boards.
Edited by mutley3d1 hour ago, mutley3d said:Ive just launched a new 4into1 multi filament solution compatible
That is an interesting animal. I have all sorts of quesitons. Where should I ask them?
8 hours ago, jaysenodell said:That is an interesting animal. I have all sorts of quesitons. Where should I ask them?
If it is Ultimaker related, and no one objects I could create a new post/thread about it on this forum.
Note that I am aware to some sensitivies and the potential accusation of "spamvertising", since expressing or detailing features and the reasons for them may well sound "salesy" but then it is a product development that interests people, since it meets and solves particular challenges and functionality and does so quite well. So for those that may feel that way, it might be best to look away 🙂 (joke of course).
If not Ultimaker related, but for another OS machine, feel free to email or send contact through the website and I will be sure to reply. there is also a Discord server.
tinker has some kind of make or build script that builds every version. I completely forget what to do as it has been years. I'm 90% sure you can't use the arduino IDE. Just read the instructions I link to above.
You can contact tinkerGnome directly but wait until you get stuck. I can also contact him for you if needed. I talk to him on slack almost every day.
1
Thanks gr5 that makes complete sense about the build script. I will get to a more detailed read of things and download the required elements of the build environment. I did see some say they built it with Arduino IDE with no issues but think there might be different cases where it does and does not build that way, or something else going on. If you could contact on my behalf that would be most appreciated, or I could even join the slack if its not a private channel, or do a compile with basic changes provided.
Edited by mutley3dAgain, let me know when you get stuck.
On 2/23/2024 at 1:30 PM, gr5 said:By the way, I've printed ninjaflex (extremely flexible) on a UM2 series. It involves some tricks. One of which is to put a drop of oil on the filament before inserting into the bowden and adding an additional drop every meter or so (about once per hour). I have more explicit instructions on this forum. 90% of people hate the idea of oil going through the nozzle and think it will do something bad like add holes in the print or something but it works perfectly. Perfectly! Trust me. Other things I had to do to get zero underextrusion was to slow down to 10mm/sec (only if you need it absolutely perfect print) and print on the high-side of the recommended temp range. And lots of fan. Also I had to up the flow rate.
So I printed using the settings that you suggested and by adding a little oil to the filament by having it pass through a box with a sponge inside that I oiled.
The print completed eventually.
My new problem is that the print stuck so well to my PEI sheet that it pulled off a section when I levered the print off. I had used some Magigoo but maybe not enough. Or is it that flexible filament can bind to PEI?
Never ending!
TM
Hey you tried the oil! yay! Most people don't.
I've never printed on PEI so I can't really help you. You'll have to google around I guess. Or experiment. To get it to stick less, squish less. And maybe remove all the magigoo? Using isopropyl alcohol maybe? I really don't know. Or add some "mold release" which is typically some kind of oil to the bed?
In the end I made a little 2 part box, with slots at each end. I put sponge inside onto which I put some 3 in 1 oil. Seemed easier than dripping oil onto the filament
1
Just watched a Youtube about printing on PEI. He clearly says that with TPU one should set the bed to 30C. So I had it too hot and thus destroyed my sheet of PEI
Live and learn
TM
This is an interesting way to create a direct drive extruder.............
Ultimaker 2+ direct drive extruder conversion, Nantgaredig by dpletsas - Thingiverse
TM
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medicalmodeller 5
I am planning to take my U2Go onto my boat. As the boat has both 12v and 24v DC available I wondered to avoid using the power supply unit that requires AC. Has anyone powered straight from DC supply?
THanks
MedicalModeller
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