Ultimaker Advanced Print Kits - Adhesive Sheets are TOO GOOD?

[1337Slewis 2]

Got my kit yesterday, slapped on an adhesive sheet and started a print (100mm x 100mm print)

Now I can't get the PLA print off the plate without destroying the adhesive sheet. Its stuck so good I'm worried about breaking the glass plate during removal.

Does anybody have any experience with these, or perhaps a tip or trick I don't know yet?

My next attempt involves modifying a paint scraper, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

I would not use the adhesion sheet for something like PLA for a variety of reasons, but mostly because there are cheaper alternatives for that type of material.

I believe they were for materials like ABS, PC and things that tend to warp a bit off the plate.

But, that is a guess on my part as I have not gotten around to testing that out yet.

[1337Slewis 2]

I would not use the adhesion sheet for something like PLA for a variety of reasons, but mostly because there are cheaper alternatives for that type of material.

I believe they were for materials like ABS, PC and things that tend to warp a bit off the plate.

But, that is a guess on my part as I have not gotten around to testing that out yet.

Fair point.

But I am still stuck with a print solidly adhered to a plate, and I would rather get the print off without destroying the sheet. This is my current dilemma.

I had the idea of putting the glass plate back in the Ulti3 and cranking up the heat until it seperates. The adhesion sheets can happily go up to 100'c.

[kmanstudios 1,120]

That is a thought. On the surface it sounds logical and should be tried. I would. But, that is me...LOL...

I am waiting to try it on a part that I print in something like PC or PP. I usually do not have much warping issues with other materials, but I do know that PC can warp under certain conditions and geometries.

There is a big thread about the sheets and other things about the advanced printing kits, but the sheets are a main topic. You can find it here.

[Nicolinux 288]

I don't know about the adhesion sheets but when I can't get prints off the bed, I let the glass plate cool in the freezer for half an hour and then the prints come off.

Might work with the adhesion sheets too.

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Unfortunately the freezer trick doesn't work with the sheets, at least not with PC. But afaik @neotko knows a trick with window cleaner?

[SandervG 1,521]

I can second the advice to not use an adhesion sheet for PLA. Curious to know if heating it up will make the PLA soft and if you'll be able to get it off then. Sometimes people also put their buildplate in a freezer, but that is usually to save time on the cooling down process. I assume yours has cooled down by now.

[Nicolinux 288]

I think the idea with the freezer is to have the part minimally shrink and thus break the bond with the glass plate. Too bad it doesn't work with the adhesion sheet.

I think the hint from Neo was to add few drops of water on the outer perimeter of your print - right where the edge of the model comes into contact with the adhesion sheet. The plan is to make use of the capillary action (when water tries to fill every little space between the sheet and the model) and break the adhesion.

[neotko 1,417]

Exactly like @nicolinux said. It works with pla/flexibles/greentec you can remove even using strong adhesion Hair Spray. I do that every day to speed up & I can avoid removing the plate to keep the bed level intact

Edited August 14, 2017 by Guest

[1337Slewis 2]

Ok, so I tried capillary action with water, alcohol and even window cleaner to no avail.

Ended up heating the bed to 65/70'c and pushed a plastic paint scraper under the print.

Only minimal warping after it had cooled (: but the adhesion sheet was destroyed.

Honestly my big issue with this, is that my supplier put me onto these adhesion sheets when I asked him for PEI sheets, which Australia apparently cannot get their collective hands on.

I will hang onto the adhesion sheets for CPE and other tempermental materials

[neotko 1,417]

Well the window washer trick was for Glass. With a sheet indeed most probably won’t work.

[SandervG 1,521]

Happy to hear you managed to get your print off, but I'm sorry that your first experience with the adhesion sheets was with PLA and it got so stuck. Well, at least we know that they work

[dfrez 21]

Old thread bump, but I’m glad I’m not the only one who ran into this issue. I purchased my UM2+ used and it came with an unknown brand of PEI sheet on the buildplate. It worked well with PLA, first layer stuck well and parts popped off easily once cooled down. When it got damaged, I pulled it off and printed on the bare glass or with glue stick for awhile. I then decided to get the UM adhesion sheets to avoid the mess with glue stick. 

 

Imagine my surprise when my PLA part had the strongest grip on a buildplate I’ve ever encountered. I tried my scraper, heating it up again, everything. Eventually I was able to manhandle it off and it stuck so well, the sheet tore and pieces were stuck to the part itself... thankfully there are multiple sheets in a box. 

 

Lesson learned I guess 😂

[Smithy 1,144]

The adhesion sheets are good if you print PP or ABS, ASA, something like that.

But PLA sticks too good on the sheets, so don't do that. For PLA a clean glass with a very thin layer of glue is more than enough.

[dfrez 21]

49 minutes ago, Smithy said:

The adhesion sheets are good if you print PP or ABS, ASA, something like that.

But PLA sticks too good on the sheets, so don't do that. For PLA a clean glass with a very thin layer of glue is more than enough.

Yep, I realize that now. I figured the UM PEI would work similarly to the previous PEI I was using. Normally bare glass or very light glue stick is all I use for all my materials. 

[dfrez 21]

Printed a few parts with Amazon ABS that tends to warp quite a bit with glass and glue stick, but with the PEI sheet there was zero warping and adhesion was very good. Although some of the sheet still tore when pulling the part off. I guess it's because the sheets are so thin. They seem more like single use sheets with how fragile they are. 

[Smithy 1,144]

Not really, try to apply some glue stick on the sheets, then you have a protective layer between the sheet and your object.

[dfrez 21]

That seems counter productive, lol. I also thought you weren't supposed to use anything on PEI except isopropyl alcohol between prints. I can give that a try I suppose. 

[Smithy 1,144]

Yes, but a glue stick is very multifunctional. 🙂 
Not only can it increase adhesion, it also serves to protect the surface. Since the glue stick is made of PVA, you can also try to remove the object with some water if it it sticks too good.

 

Make some glue stripes on the bed and then distribute it with a wet tissue to get a thin layer.

[dfrez 21]

Interesting. I have used water to remove prints before, either due to the cooling and subsequent contraction of the part or to rinse away the glue. 

[tinkergnome 927]

@dfrez 'cause you mentioned PEI a few times:

 

Be aware that the adhesion sheets are not PEI, it's (some kind of) polyester film.

It should be no surprise that it behaves different from PEI...

[dfrez 21]

5 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:

@dfrez 'cause you mentioned PEI a few times:

 

Be aware that the adhesion sheets are not PEI, it's (some kind of) polyester film.

It should be no surprise that it behaves different from PEI...

 

Thank you for the clarification. I assumed they were the same thing, but now the different behavior makes more sense.