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Migo

upgrading UMO+single extruder to dual ?

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Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!

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Hello Migo,

I'm not a expert but i work on a new design in Dual Extrution the Dual Balance system.

At the present time this system work well on a ultimaker 2 and there is some advantage:

1 No need to had other eletronics

2 No need to had other Power supply

3 using the same firmware of the ultimaker original Dual

4 The nozzle who is not active have a special Z level (-1.5mm) in order to protect the already printing things.

You can find some test here :

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644923

Now i works to change the 12v fan with only 7 mm of thickness.

I don't know the ultimaker original but as mentioned neotko you need to change some things. May be you can find some examples to upgrade your ultimaker original in dual Extruder mode.

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Hello Migo,

I'm not a expert but i work on a new design in Dual Extrution the Dual Balance system.

At the present time this system work well on a ultimaker 2 and there is some advantage:

1 No need to had other eletronics

2 No need to had other Power supply

3 using the same firmware of the ultimaker original Dual

4 The nozzle who is not active have a special Z level (-1.5mm) in order to protect the already printing things.

You can find some test here :

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644923

Now i works to change the 12v fan with only 7 mm of thickness.

I don't know the ultimaker original but as mentioned neotko you need to change some things. May be you can find some examples to upgrade your ultimaker original in dual Extruder mode.

 

Thank you very much :)

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On 12/1/2017 at 8:19 PM, neotko said:

Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!

 

Why will it leak more than it already does?

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Umm where's the edit button...

 

Well anyway..

 

Now I had time to read the question again XD

 

Leak, you mean 'drip' right? Mark2 drips less, because one head parks while the other prints, except when the second head is in use... But well, using Cura auto-temp-magic this is more or less not an issue.

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On 12/3/2017 at 4:47 AM, 6maker said:

Hello Migo,

I'm not a expert but i work on a new design in Dual Extrution the Dual Balance system.

At the present time this system work well on a ultimaker 2 and there is some advantage:

1 No need to had other eletronics

2 No need to had other Power supply

3 using the same firmware of the ultimaker original Dual

4 The nozzle who is not active have a special Z level (-1.5mm) in order to protect the already printing things.

You can find some test here :

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644923

Now i works to change the 12v fan with only 7 mm of thickness.

I don't know the ultimaker original but as mentioned neotko you need to change some things. May be you can find some examples to upgrade your ultimaker original in dual Extruder mode.

 

@6maker

I am also interested in the details of how your "Dual Balance" system works.  How do you achieve the special Z level for the non-active nozzle?  Also am I correct in assuming you are using the extra fans to cool the non-active nozzle to avoid oozing?

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On 05/01/2018 at 8:14 PM, rowiac said:

 

@6maker

I am also interested in the details of how your "Dual Balance" system works.  How do you achieve the special Z level for the non-active nozzle?  Also am I correct in assuming you are using the extra fans to cool the non-active nozzle to avoid oozing?

Hello ahoeben and Rowiac,

I think I have finished in a month or two a web page to explain my mechanism.
I just finished some prototype for friends with two smaller 25 * 25 * 10mm wfan for cooling the printed part. I would like to find 7mm but it's not easy.

For the moment my system is not perfect yet that's why I want to remain discreet about the mechanism because it can still change.
But you will be the first to have all the details.

 

IMAG1212.jpg

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