On 12/1/2017 at 8:19 PM, neotko said:Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!
Why will it leak more than it already does?
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neotko 1,417
Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!
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Migo 1
Thanks a lot
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ultiarjan 1,223
FYI, direct link;
https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/
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6maker 10
Hello Migo,
I'm not a expert but i work on a new design in Dual Extrution the Dual Balance system.
At the present time this system work well on a ultimaker 2 and there is some advantage:
1 No need to had other eletronics
2 No need to had other Power supply
3 using the same firmware of the ultimaker original Dual
4 The nozzle who is not active have a special Z level (-1.5mm) in order to protect the already printing things.
You can find some test here :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644923
Now i works to change the 12v fan with only 7 mm of thickness.
I don't know the ultimaker original but as mentioned neotko you need to change some things. May be you can find some examples to upgrade your ultimaker original in dual Extruder mode.
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ahoeben 2,016
Do you have an image/sketch of how your nozzle switching works? All I see is (nice) successful prints, but I am more interested in seeing the mechanism.
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Migo 1
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