Problem with the Extrusion Upgrade Kit

[tor 0]

So i decided to upgrade my old UM2 with the the Extrusion Upgrade Kit converting the  UM2 to a UM2+.

 

The process where mainly painless but when restarting the device i get the:

 

ERROR - STOPPED Temp sensor (ER01)

 

Following the tips on the troublesooting page (https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19484-er01-stopped-temp-sensor)

i swapped the temp1 (Nozzle) with temp3 (bed-sensor). With the unit starts up without any error-message. I.e. it seems like both sensors work when swapped.

 

I can however not get the nozzle sensor working in its intended, temp1, connector.

 

Anyone have any ideas on how to proceed debugging/fixing this?

 

/Tor

[fbrc8-erin 302]

Does it only error out when you try to start a print? Or will manually heating the nozzle also cause an error?

[tor 0]

13 minutes ago, fbrc8-erin said:

Does it only error out when you try to start a print? Or will manually heating the nozzle also cause an error?

 

It wont even start up when i get the error message. It hangs and indicates the error on the display, mentioned above. If i swap the sensors however the system starts up and displays the ordinary menus.

 

[IRobertI 521]

If you have access to a multimeter you could also measure the resistance between the two wires of the contact (of the sensor, not the board) and post the result. It should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 108Ohms in normal room temp.

[tor 0]

Hmm, this seems like a possible problem. The nozzle sensor only reads 12 Ohms while the bed sensor says ~108 as you state above Should i interpret that as the sensor being none functional?

[Torgeir 280]

Hi Tor,

 

Sorry to break in here, but your measuring is kind of strange.. 12 Ohm is not right here, -but a bell is ringing..  This value is not very far from the expected resistance to be measure at the nozzle heater element wires. So try to measure the heater element and let us know this value.

 

Kind of weird, but could those two wires have been swapped? The heater and the PT100?

 

On the connector for the PT100 there should be two red wires connected to one pin and a transparent  (or white) wire to the other pin? Sometimes there is only one red and one transparent on each pin at the nozzle temp sensor connector going to the main PCB (printed circuit board) Temp1 connector.

 

As Robert said, there should be about 108 Ohm at room temperature from a PT100 sensor, so approx same resistance at the bed and nozzle sensor!

 

Well, just my 2p..

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

[IRobertI 521]

That does unfortunately seem to indicate that something is wrong with the PT100 (temperature sensor). I would get in contact with your reseller, explain the measurements and tests you've done and ask them to send you a new sensor. It's unfortunate but at least it's pretty straight forward to replace. If it makes you feel any better 99.9% of everyone the company I work for has sold the upgrade to have been very happy with it in the end.

 

@Torgeir The PT100 of the UM2+ (the one that comes with the upgrade kit) looks a little bit different than the one you describe from the UM2. The new sensor only has two white wires. And I honestly can't see a possibility where the contact for the PT100 has ended up on the heater wires.

[Torgeir 280]

Hi |Robert|,

 

Sure agree with you here, -why I reacted on this value is simply because that over the years I've been replacing quite a number of PT100 (in the aviation) and all of them was found "open" I.E. measures infinitely high resistance, but ofc. a short may be possible as well. As the reading is quite close to the heater resistance, it's just makes me wonder because this is a brand new unit.. 

 

Happy New Year.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

Edited December 30, 2017 by Torgeir

[tor 0]

Hi,

 

Thanks for all your comments and quick replies. I will talk to the reseller of the upgrade kit before i proceed with anything else.

 

The only thing i find a bit curious is that the unit accepted the faulty pt100 element when plugged into the bed-sensor slot. I.e. what could be the difference there? There seems to certainly be some form of control on that slot as well because if i left that sensor slot unconnected i got an error message on it but not when both sensors where connected in a swapped configuration :/

 

/Tor

Edited January 2, 2018 by tor
Typo

[tor 0]

I got a new PT-100 from the reseller, unfortunately(?) one for the UM2 and not the UM2+ but it seems to work now (The unit starts up and i have done some small testprints.)

 

Thx for the help trouble shooting!

 

/Tor

[Torgeir 280]

Hi Tor,

 

Great, it is said to be different, but the difference is just +/- 0.8 deg. Celsius max. in the area (0-300) deg Celsius.

 

There is "generally" two type of PT100 RTD's (resistance temperature detectors), type A and type B. 

 

Type A contain two resistors (each 100 ohm at 0 deg. Celsius) in the same  capsule and have 4 wires.  It is often more than ten times the price of type B!

 

Type B only have one resistor and normally only 2 wires, however, if the sensor is located far from the measuring electronics it may have 3 wires or sometimes even 4! This additional wires is used to measure and compensate for the additional resistance in the wires. This can actually be done by the firmware as well, if the wire length is an issue, but in the UM2 PT100 wire length is just around 1 meter or so, so not that much of an issue here..

 

If one is worry about measuring as good as possible, you can use copper paste when installing the PT100 (this is good for the heater element as well). The copper paste is the "best" heat transfer compound for our temp area up to 300 deg. Celsius. This will fill up any air pocket between temp sensor / heater holes in the heat block.

 

The benefit here:.

 

1)  Much better average temperature control of the heath block.

2)  Easy to remove and reinstall when needed ( but remember never re-bend the wires that is close to the sensor / heater, they are very easy to break and do not pull the wires. Push it out from the opening where the removed lock screw is located.) 

3)  Will protect for corrosion.

 

When installing with copper paste, make sure that there is enough paste as we do not want any air pocket in here, as this can reduce the heat transfer.

Wipe off the excess of paste with a cotton rag. Do not install the two cooling fan yet, we need to preheat the heat block and let all the excessive volatile additives to go out of the copper paste. So it will drip off, so be ready with the rag.. Before reaching the high end about 240 deg. C it will smoke just a little, so have ventilation when doing this.

After this "burn in" process, the printer is ready for use.

 

If your printer is some aged and the sensor and heater is fastened into the block, do not try to remove as it is very easy to damage the sensor / heater. This is to be added when you install a new PT100 sensor or a heater.

 

As an example; I can do the speed test print at 207 deg. C. easily with my printer and my heat block temperature is very accurate and stable.

Here is this test:. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/test-print-for-ultimaker--2

 

Well a little long winded, but just some gen info about this issue.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2018 by Torgeir
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