Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Painting 3D models


raadsheer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Posted · Painting 3D models

It is not necessary to paint the plastic, but nail polish works well on ABS, and also works pretty good on PLA. This takes at least two coats to completely cover the original plastic color. There are some nail polish kits on Ebay with many colours for a decent price.

If you want to use spray paint, then you can try "KRYLON FUSION FOR PLASTIC".

Painting is always messy. It is just easier to get the desired filament in the first place.

 

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    I've painted a few things as long as it's somewhat primed it works. I've tried Tamaya spray base coat, and some random rust proof spraypaint I found lying around the house. It's not even for plastic and it works. Then acrylic over that.

    Basecoat black rust paint, 2ish layers of acrylic model paint. I didn't even paint the black parts again.. it's just primer.

    001-Belkar-580x386.jpg

    Primed with watered down acrylic black paint. -I don't recommend this as much, you need a lot more coats to cover the base. But at least I printed in silver so I just had to add a little bit of silver paint.

    005-mjolnir-580x386.jpg

    Basecoat in black anti-rust spray. Painted in model acrylics

    004-PaintedAtlas-1024x683.jpg

    You do need to seal it afterwards though, or the paint flakes off kinda easily. I just used a latex sealer you can grab at an art store. I just had all this stuff from my graphic design school days, didn't pick them on purpose.

     

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    • 3 months later...
    Posted · Painting 3D models

    so bringing up a slightly older thread, don't want to post my own one about this topic, but is there any reason to prime the model beyond removing any visibility of the original colour through? can you just paint normal modelling acrylic paint straight on it, or do you need to prime it with something slightly rougher to get it to stick?

    also, i noticed Valcrow, you said about needing to seal the model, could you do this with just an overall spray of matte / gloss modelling paint?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    Most paints will not stick to PLA. But automotive primer will. And any paint should stick to primer.

     

    The games-workshop paint does. But it's very expensive.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    excellent. i will see what the games-workshop stuff is like, as i guess i would be able to apply that slightly thinner than normal automotive stuff, even even that's pretty expensive.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    Priming before painting has also the advantage of smoothing the surface a bit. It stands also true that it might also blur some detail. But does not consume too much time since it's easy to apply and cures very fast.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    so bringing up a slightly older thread, don't want to post my own one about this topic, but is there any reason to prime the model beyond removing any visibility of the original colour through? can you just paint normal modelling acrylic paint straight on it, or do you need to prime it with something slightly rougher to get it to stick?

    also, i noticed Valcrow, you said about needing to seal the model, could you do this with just an overall spray of matte / gloss modelling paint?

     

    Painting directly on PLA doesn't work well, it will pool if you water down your paints even just a bit and then the PLA will show through as well, resulting in requiring many coats to get an even colour.

    For the hammer, I actually tried to water down paint a lot and brush it on a few coats. I read somewhere that that could be an alternative to priming. Can't say I recommend it. It's a little better than just painting directly onto PLA, but more time consuming, not durabable at all (paint can rub off simply by your fingers holding the object).

    Priming with spray primer is your best bet I think but they're kind of expensive. I tried tamaya light grey ultrathin primer (automotive stuff). Works great, but expensive, and acrylic doesn't stick that well to it. I think it's meant for enamel paints.

    IMG_00001196.jpg

    before / after priming.

    I find priming actually helps obscure some of the printing imperfections.

    As for sealing, absolutely essential the paint can rub off even if you handle it a little bit more than normal. varnish should technically protect it enough. But I would suggest a can of Krylon clear matte finish. It'll last you forever. very durable finish, and doesn't change the properties and look of your paint job at all. even if you suck at apply it and overspray.

    I have an airbrush on order, it's suppose to come in a few days. There's some airbrush primer in that order as well. I'll let you guys know how that goes. I have no experience with that type of stuff so it'll be interesting at the least.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    Hey Guys,

    As promised, I got my airbrush this past week. A harder and steekbeck 2in1 with a mini compressor. Kinda pricey, but it is one fine precision instrument.

    IMG_00001747-580x342.jpg

    It's working really great so far. The priming works well, I was worried that the paint won't stick to PLA, but it clings on quite nicely and provides a really good matte painting surface. I'm using Black polyurethane based vellejo airbrush primer.

    IMG_00001730.jpg

    Here's a scrap model I'm using to test my painting. Printing on it is pretty terrible which makes it great for testing. Primer goes on as thin as you need it to preserve all the detail.

    IMG_00001743.jpg

    Finished painting, (details and edges were brushed on)

    Gonna be doing more painting this week to really get into it. I'm totally new to airbrushs and it seems somewhat easy enough so far and getting decent results. I'm sure with more practice and time it'll just get better from here. It's a very enjoyable experience though, unlike brush painting sometimes...

    You can cover a large area quickly, or detailed gradients. The only thing you can't do well are edges and details unless you do masks and stencils which I have yet to try.

    I was quite surprised that my current paints work with it. Random games workshop, vellejo and even craft acrylic paints thinned down work.

    More pics/impressions here on my blog.

    http://www.redicubricks.com/first-impressions-of-airbrush-painting-a-catapult/

    If you have any questions about airbrush + 3d printing or want me to try some stuff, let me know. I couldn't find almost any information specific to airbrush and 3d printing out there when I was trying to figure out what to buy.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    i love this new tread ! :-)

    thanks for all the info... i have to give this a go...

    Ian :-)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    never buy a cheap airbrush. i brought a cheap one. used it once, it was fine, used it a second time, it was awful.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    A post about painting, printed them a year ago, so won't fit in 'Your latest print'.

    some scenery for my railroadtrack 1:160.

    Used normal 'Revell' modelkitpaint.

    018

    hu107p

    hu105

    huDSC01794

    041

    DSCN1481

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    It's a cool idea to have your own home as a model!

    That is going to be worth a little project when i'm done doing Rhino;)

    Cheers!

    Lennart

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    That's a fantastic use of a 3D printer. The house is a great personalized touch.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    fantastic home model !

    I always wanted to do this for mine... Should kick my ass a little and get that done....

    Ian :-)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    its images like that which made me get an ultimaker compared to other printers on the market :)

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    More airbrush painting, on a arger scale.

    IMG_00001798-580x409.jpg

    IMG_00001770-789x1024.jpg

    IMG_00001776-718x1024.jpg

    IMG_00001807.jpg

    IMG_00001797-630x1024.jpg

    Step by step pictures here:

    http://www.redicubricks.com/atlas-painting-step-by-step/#more-471

    Hey.. we should have a post your latest painted objects! We have one for printed objects...

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    Thought it would be relevant to put this here:

    Video painting tutorial w/written instructions

    http://www.redicubricks.com/3d-printed-lightsaber-painting-tutorial/

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    I'm almost finished printing out the complex lightsaber. Have to say that paint job you did looks amazing, well done!

    I'm thinking of getting an airbrushing kit and learn how to paint. Do you have any recommendations on what kind of system to get?

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    I have the harder and steenbeck infinity 2in1. (it comes with a 0.15mm and 0.4mm nozzle) I rarely use the 0.15 nozzle. I think that's for warhammer sized things. It's a great airbrush, but my first so I don't really have a point of reference.

    Make sure you get a gravity fed one (the ones with the paint cup on top) The other variations will waste a lot of paint.

    Get a compressor with a tank and regulator. They usually are sold as kits, so an airbrush + compressor combo. But I since found out you can get compressors a lot cheaper in hardware stores vs. hobby ones so look there if you wanna save some toonies.

    Lastly cleaning supplies/solvents are important for airbrushes since there are small moving parts. So get whatever solvent works for your paints and make sure it breaks up the paint nicely (as in dissolves rather than makes it all chunky) I use Vallejo airbrush thinner. I think it could be windex... but that stuff works.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    Wicked video Valcrow!!

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    I have the harder and steenbeck infinity 2in1. (it comes with a 0.15mm and 0.4mm nozzle) I rarely use the 0.15 nozzle. I think that's for warhammer sized things. It's a great airbrush, but my first so I don't really have a point of reference.

    Make sure you get a gravity fed one (the ones with the paint cup on top) The other variations will waste a lot of paint.

    Get a compressor with a tank and regulator. They usually are sold as kits, so an airbrush + compressor combo. But I since found out you can get compressors a lot cheaper in hardware stores vs. hobby ones so look there if you wanna save some toonies.

    Lastly cleaning supplies/solvents are important for airbrushes since there are small moving parts. So get whatever solvent works for your paints and make sure it breaks up the paint nicely (as in dissolves rather than makes it all chunky) I use Vallejo airbrush thinner. I think it could be windex... but that stuff works.

     

    Thanks for the info Valcrow. And I shared your video with a few friends, nothing but praise for your airbrushing skills my friend.

     

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Painting 3D models

    I might bump this old thread, so, sorry...

    What is the strongest paint finishes do you know? My prints are supposed to be painted and they will experience a lot of friction and grinding against each other, some of the parts will be held together by a thick rubber, others will be constantly rubbing against each other, so I need to find a solution for paint all the shiny metallic stuff on the print (It's a large 70cm (27inch) robot figure) and being able to pose it more than once)

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share

    • Our picks

      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
        • 8 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...