Lift switch misses even after calibration

[PolyCraft 0]

Hi all, I'm new to the forums and fairly new to the S5.

 

I'm having a bit of trouble getting the S5 to find and use the Lift Switch properly, and it seems to have started with a 20 hour print job (Tough PLA, PVA) I had on recently.

 

The parts had warped, the print bed had been knocked about 1 inch to the right, the silicone cover on the print head had been pulled out, and the print was offset on the X and Y axis part way through (but despite all of this it was still trying to print!).

 

Just to be safe I performed a full maintenance cycle, including XY offset calibration and a lift switch calibration, but I'm still having issues.

 

When I set a print to go the print head moves to the lift switch to change print cores, but seems to miss on the Y axis by about an inch (toward the back of the printer), even after all of the maintenance and calibration.

 

Does anyone know why it might be doing this, and what I can do to fix it?

 

Thanks in advance!

[geetee 0]

I've only had my s5 a week now and have had this problem with the lift switch, not sure if it was part of the calibration you done but

there is the specific setting for the lift switch, where you have to physically move the print head so that the lift switch is in the wee gap it needs to be. I'm not near the machine at the moment but I think its under print core calibration menu,

[dsp 18]

We had the same looks like the head is missing it position right at the start of a print.

with calibration everything is alright but start a print and it is missing the switch by approx. 2 cm 

Today we installed the new firmware what solved it for us

[Ghene 24]

I started having this problem with my UM3E+ after the latest updates. What should I do?

[Enigma_M4 119]

It seems there has appeared a new procedure: to ensure, the lift switch ist in "down" position before rising (and so fitting in the lift switch bay), the print head moves to the backside of the lift switch bay (if it's "up" at that time, this motion will knock it to the "down" position) ??

When moving the lift switch up and down (automatic or manually via the menu options) or doing a lift switch test, does it work right?

[orangeugarte 0]

I'm having the same issue as well, I can't even start a print since the print head misses the lift by approximately 3 cm, during the calibration it works perfectly, but as soon as I try to star a print, it misses and sends the  error that both print cores are at the same height.

I have updated to the latest and done every calibration and maintenance possible, this didn't happen before updating but can't find the previous firmware anywhere to revert the update.

Thanks in advance!

[Dustin 129]

2 hours ago, orangeugarte said:

I'm having the same issue as well, I can't even start a print since the print head misses the lift by approximately 3 cm, during the calibration it works perfectly, but as soon as I try to star a print, it misses and sends the  error that both print cores are at the same height.

I have updated to the latest and done every calibration and maintenance possible, this didn't happen before updating but can't find the previous firmware anywhere to revert the update.

Thanks in advance!

This most likely means your Y limit switch is damaged.

Share pictures of the limit switch and a video of the machine starting a print will be alot of help.

[orangeugarte 0]

On 3/7/2023 at 3:39 PM, Dustin said:

This most likely means your Y limit switch is damaged.

Share pictures of the limit switch and a video of the machine starting a print will be alot of help.

 

20230315_083459.zip

[gr5 2,172]

No the limit switch is something completely different from the lift switch.  Also known as an "end stop".  Anyway I can tell yours is fine by the sound.  If it was bad there would be some nasty sounds happening or it wouldn't even go to the corner when homing.

 

I'd try the procedure a few more times.  It always takes me a few tries.

 

Maybe your Y stepper is slipping?  Either a bad driver or too much friction.  Try oiling (just one drop!) the 6 rods in the gantry (count them - make sure you get all 6).

 

But the video really looks good.  Try calibrating again - maybe video the whole procedure starting when you have placed the print head into the switcher gap.

 

And then also post the log file here.  Maybe there is some error that shows up in the log error (disk read errors or limit switch triggered).

[Dustin 129]

Its possible the limit switch is bent just enough to trigger but not be properly repeatable as well.
(grinding does not always result in this case)

But yea cant see the switch from that camera angle, its the little black and silver switch in the back right corner region of the machine under the top frame panel. 

Its possible there is a loose pully slipping on the Y axis as well. 

[orangeugarte 0]

Here's a video a little longer of the whole process,  it has been leveled, calibrated and lubricated, I have checked everything but still gives me the error at the start of the print.

Thanks

20230315_110104.zip

[Dustin 129]

Still cant see the limit switch..

Can you please move the print head to the front left corner of the machine and put your camera down in the machine and point it into this corner. 

There is a switch with 2 wires going to it on the right wall of the machine back in this corner. this is the limit switch in question.

[gr5 2,172]

So I saw no problems with lifting switch.  Everytime it tried to change the position of the switch it seemed to work fine.

 

The first time you do anything like start a print, the printer doesn't know the current setting of the switch so it doesn't use the "slot", and instead uses the edge.  This is in case the switch is already switched (which it was when you started the print).  that's probably why it appears to you to be "3cm off".  It's just getting the switch into a known state.  If it tried to "switch" it without doing this the switch could push very hard against the device and not actually change anything.

 

Instead I see you are getting a leveling error.  And it seems to happen after testing MANY points which as far as I know only happens if your bed isn't very close to level in the first place.  So I would do a manual level procedure first and then try doing another print.

 

You could also test the leveling sensor - there is a test for that.  That test also gives you a number - any number < 8 is a pass.  Knowing the value of that number might be helpful in case it's the sensor but I think it's that the bed is too far out of level to be levelled with software alone.  What happens is if the bed is crooked the part starts off printing crooked to match the bed and then slowly changes to level and if you print a cube for example, the bottom face will be crooked by the amount the glass bed is tilted.  So if it's tilted too much customers complain about how the part bottom is crooked.  So the printer forces you to at least get *close* to level first.  With the manual leveling.