S5 knocking y axis

[Suffolksails 0]

So new to us S5 and it has a knock on the y axis when printing near the middle....we checked alignment, greased / lubed the bars, checked the belts. 

still the knock every time the head got near the centre line at the front......

SOLUTION!!!!!
as the head was moving past the magnets to close the door they were strong enough to 'magnatize' the rod as it moved past making to loud knocks for each magnet! Removing the magnets and we now have quiet machine.

link to vid showing the powerful magnets!
 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mKSWr2T5uTdyWBCEA

[gr5 2,265]

Wow!  Something is seriously wrong.  The sliding block (the black block) should go on a long rod that keeps the sliding block from moving so much.  Is the rod missing?  Look at the other 4 blocks.  They should all have a brass bearing that goes through them and a rod that goes through that.

[gr5 2,265]

Oh wait - I can see that you *do* have the black block on the rod.  Instead it is twisting on the rod.  So there are 2 rods that go through the print head and attach to the 4 sliding blocks.  Are they properly snapped into the sliding blocks?  I guess by now it may be irrelevant as it is worn?

[Suffolksails 0]

yes the rods nd black blocks are 'snapped' in. 
the rods / and blocks on the y axis 'swing' freely in fact they swing enough that you can slide the rod out. It is only the two front and back that move like that.

 

[Suffolksails 0]

that is to say that all the fittings / fixings 'look' normal.

 

[fbrc8-erin 302]

If the block blocks don't fit tight in your printhead shafts...they may need to be replaced. The plastic can get soft if there's too much enclosed heat. The front/back blocks are going to get impacted by this before the left/right ones due to the orientation (the front/back pair have the opening closer to the bed, plus gravity is worse on those since it's an upside down U to hold the printhead shaft). I recommend replacing the block halves/sliding block set. 

[Torgeir 280]

Hi @Suffolksails,

 

There is an emergency fix for this, but only works if there is no cracks in the the "black" sliding blocks..

 

I've been using "post it labels paper" cut to match the width of the block (13 mm or 1/2") actually like a rectangle..

A "shims" like this will increase the clamping and is a permanent solution for my UM2+ (been for 3 yrs).

 

Here's a picture of how I did it.

 

 

Don't use to much paper around the axe, -if, it will be hard to snap on and the block may crack!

Try to adjust so it become like the ones that's ok.

 

Hope this helps until you have got a new replacement.

 

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 10, 2020 by Torgeir
Text

[Suffolksails 0]

Hi Torgeir,

Result!! Yes we had a closer look and came up with a similar 'fix'...

Looks like we need to order new ones and take the machine apart 🤔

[Torgeir 280]

Hi Suffolksails,

 

Did the sliding blocks have cracks?

 

Torgeir

[Suffolksails 0]

No, think they are just worn...

[UlrichC-DE 115]

Is the part available somewhere in exchange

Part number?

[Torgeir 280]

Hi Suffolksails,

 

If they are just worn, you can use the "post it method", -no disassemble required..

 

Thanks

Torgeir

[UlrichC-DE 115]

Fascinatingly, the current Ultimaker are apparently only held together by postit, insulating tape, wool and cable ties.
My S5 is a case like that too. The waves are too short. That's why the wave blocks hold only conditionally. My old printers do not have this problem. (frightening)

 

The mod with the postit has a hook.
You're using it to increase the pressure on the stock. The ball cages wear out theoretrically faster. Eventually, the bearings jam and they lose balls.

With a Um2+, that may still work. But the S5 has a larger shaft diameter.