Help with temperature sensors on bUltimaker

[Torgeir 243]

I'll think it will work for you now..

 

Torgeir

[Juliogdiana 3]

I am getting 178ohm between them, it is because I have heated the extrude, it is going down on ohms slowly

[Torgeir 243]

178 Ohms is close to 200 deg. C.'Kind of promising..

 

Torgeir.

[Juliogdiana 3]

Yes, now I messed everything, couldnt connect the printer to Cura for changing firmware, so I try upload original firmware, it did, but now I cant upload a custom firmware with my pt100, shows printer isnt connected, but when I open the arduino, it shows Mega 2560 board, I have selected the right port, which is showing on my windows system but it still wont connect.

Windows seven with Arduino 1.5, is there any tricky  for this?

 

I have .hex file and marlin firmware, cant flash none of them.😵

[Torgeir 243]

This seems to make us work.. 

Well, Win 7 should work well with Arduino 1.5 (some old but still, -I'm using 1.8.5 on Win7)

Sometimes it may take a while before Windows find and "address a port number" for your Arduino card.

Windows will address the connection if you select "tool" then "Serial ports".

If Arduino IDE see your card, you can get the card info (S/N etc.).

Here is a picture of the situ when the Arduino IDE is connected to the Arduino Mega Card:

This is from the desktop (using Win10 and Arduino IDE 1.8.12), connected to a Reprap shield 1.4 (the twin to UMO) 🙂 :

 

Will look like this when connected.

 

 

Actually, I've tried (using bUltimaker) to make a hex file using UMO + HBK (if HBK is heat bed kit), but this just lead to an error state.  Then did the same with UMO went all ok..  So not sure what's going on here.

 

But if you have the hex file it should be possible using the SD card for upload.

 

This should work, but with Windows things may happen..

 

Maybe an upgrade of the Arduino IDE will do some change..

 

Good luck.

 

Torgeir

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Juliogdiana 3]

I didn’t know could upload with sd card, how to do it?

[Torgeir 243]

Here is a link that's explains a lot better than me.. 😀

 

https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=505195.0

 

Thanks

Torgeir.

[Torgeir 243]

You'll see here, you need Arduino IDE 1.0.6 , just read on in here..

 

Torgeir

[Juliogdiana 3]

Thank you, I found the problem, it was my arduino board, changed it and works now.

 

But looks like the Builtimaker is getting problem to generate firmware with full graphics lcd screen.

 

I check it on Arduino and I am getting error while compiling but I cant understand what is wrong, this is the line:

 

 

Just give error when define smart full graphics lcd, everything else goes fine.

[Juliogdiana 3]

Got the printer fully working now with ultipanel controller, hot end temperature works perfect with amplifier e3d pt100 board, resistor R23 cut and firmware with sensor 20, same as um2.

 

I would like to have the full graphics if I can sort the firmware.

[Torgeir 243]

Hi,

 

You might have multiple libraries found for "lcd.h" or "LiquidDisplay.h"

 

Make sure to have just the needed libraries for the actual sketch to be compiled, -this is often a problem.

 

Torgeir

[Torgeir 243]

Great, way to go!

 

Good luck..

 

Regard

Torgeir

[3dprntz 4]

I just got a heated bed that is 18-24 V 200 W. @Juliogdiana how did you wire the heated bed to the V1.5.7 Ultimaker original board? On the board there is a place for hot bed input. I tried measuring the voltage but I still have to install new firmware. Just wondering if its ok to plug the heating wires directly to the hot bed.

Edited November 23, 2020 by 3dprntz

[Juliogdiana 3]

Hi, you need a relay, don’t plug your hotbed wires directly to the board, you need get the signal from the board to kick a relay, you wire your hotbed on relay.

 

type on ebay 3D printer hotbed relay, got mine for £7

[gr5 2,178]

Really?  The v1.5.7 is such a piece of crap it can't even switch on the heated bed?

 

Okay according to here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB  it can switch up to 55 amps!  That's over 1000 watts.  I don't think you need a relay - just hook it straight up.  A more serious issue is how many ohms is this heated bed.

 

Heated beds are all a fixed resistance and the wattage depends on the voltage.  I'm guessing you have a 24V supply.  So for example if it's 200W at 18 volts then that means your heated bed is 1.62 ohms and at 24V that is 355 Watts.  So hopefully your heated bed isn't 1.62 ohms because I doubt your power supply can deliver 355 Watts.

 

But if your heated bed is 200W at 24V then that means your heated bed is 2.88 ohms.  Can your power supply really deliver 200 Watts?  On top of the 25W or so for the nozzle and another 50W or so for the steppers etc?

 

Anyway to answer your question - just hook it up - you'll be fine.  If the power supply can't deliver enough power it will just shut down when you turn on the heated bed.  Nothing will get damaged.  It just won't work.

 

If you have tinkerMarlin you can use the power budget feature to keep your power supply happy.  Tell it the truth about the actual wattage of your heated bed and your nozzle and then set the budget to be about 50 watts below what your actual power supply can deliver.

[3dprntz 4]

That's great news! Im guessing the relay was a way to heat up the heated bed a lot faster. But, I was wondering why is there a connection for the heated bed when it has a way for it to connect directly to the board? I'll have to change the firmware, but Ill give it a try.

 

Does anyone know how to backup the firmware on the printer currently so if anything happens I can always revert back to it?

[Juliogdiana 3]

Using a relay dont change nothing, you takes the same time, using a relay just saves you burn your heat bed transistor as I have done twice, specially if you want high temps and longer prints for abs

[3dprntz 4]

I see. I had a relay before with a previous diy build and it shorted or burnt. Do you know what thermistor you used for the heated bed? I looked at the build and it has many options. The site that I bought it from also doesn't have which type. 

[Juliogdiana 3]

Basically any thermistor will work, but I have used this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202619728612 and the first thermistor option on marlin firmware, I think is number 1.

[3dprntz 4]

13 hours ago, Juliogdiana said:

Basically any thermistor will work, but I have used this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202619728612 and the first thermistor option on marlin firmware, I think is number 1.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32836787555.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.24cb56c8tp1zd2&algo_pvid=44c4d8f1-db31-448b-b03e-32155c73de3b&algo_expid=44c4d8f1-db31-448b-b03e-32155c73de3b-2&btsid=0b0a555716063286705788178e19e6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

This looks like the one you got that has an included thermistor sensor. I couldn't find info on mine that also has an integrated sensor. Looking at the description its a pt100 3.8 ohm thermistor. Ill start with that and see if it works.

[3dprntz 4]

I don't know what version of marlin the builder runs, but I found this that has the newer settings for the Ultimaker. He said to compare with the current build. You can also just install marlin 2 with hout changing the firmware from ultimaker if needed.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223870

[Torgeir 243]

Hi @3dprntz,

 

 

4 hours ago, 3dprntz said:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32836787555.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.24cb56c8tp1zd2&algo_pvid=44c4d8f1-db31-448b-b03e-32155c73de3b&algo_expid=44c4d8f1-db31-448b-b03e-32155c73de3b-2&btsid=0b0a555716063286705788178e19e6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

This looks like the one you got that has an included thermistor sensor. I couldn't find info on mine that also has an integrated sensor. Looking at the description its a pt100 3.8 ohm thermistor. Ill start with that and see if it works.

 

This mean the bed is equipped with a PT100 thermistor and a heat element with a resistivity of 3.5 ohms.

The PT100 mean; it will show 100 ohm across the two wires when the probe is immersed into a stirred "ice bath".

(This is the most used reference for zero deg. Celsius.)

 

As the UMO shield do not have any heat sink on the N-channel MOS FET (normally), because the design describe a MOS FET (STP55NF06L) that can cope with 55 Amp ID at 60 VDSS max. This will work very well as gr5 said.

 

I've seen a few shield meant for Arduino Mega made with all kind of "strange" lo rated MOS FET installed, so I'm not surprised if some of those shield cannot hold the requested current for the bed.

 

For the heat bed temp sensor, you need to select: PT100 with 4k7 ohm (pull up resistor).

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

[3dprntz 4]

Awesome! Thanks for the help. This was the actual one I got, but ill try with those settings.

SWMAKER Ultimaker Original heated bed For DIY 3D printer Aluminium alloy UM build plate Heat Bed Hot Bed Plate Size: 242*242*2mm|ultimaker original heated bed|ultimaker originalheated build plate - AliExpress

Edited November 26, 2020 by 3dprntz

[3dprntz 4]

 

getting this screen from the builder

[gr5 2,178]

FYI - using "normal" (not pt100) thermistors for the bed is more common because the bed doesn't get all that hot so pretty much any cheap thermistor will work and these are easier to deal with from an arduino point of view (arduino can measure the resistance more accurately and hence get a more accurate temperature).  There's nothing inherently less accurate about a PT100 but the circuitry to measure the PT100 resistance gets more complicated if you want good accuracy on the temp reading.

 

Regarding that build error - I'd contact Adedee Bulle directly.  I think he is this guy: @amedee

 

Try a direct message if he doesn't reply here.