Ultimaker 2+ Stops after a few minutes

[dim_kand 0]

Hello

 

I own a printer Ultimaker 2+

I have been having a serious problem with the printer for the last week.
While I'm trying to print a file the printer turns off on its own after a few minutes and returns almost immediately. 
Τhe nozzle and built plate stay where printing stopped.
I tried to update the firmware without any result. (my version is 2.6.2)
I also did a factory reset and tried to use older version of cura.
 

[gr5 2,265]

It's almost surely the power brick.  You could try turning off the print bed and using blue tape (use painters tape cleaned with isopropyl alcohol) to prove that you are going over what the power supply can put out.

 

You could try oiling the rods as the will lower your power usage by as much as 10 watts.

 

don't try lowering the print bed temperature as lower temps actually draw more current (lower resistance at cooler temps).

 

Anyway if this is the problem you can spend about $90/90 euros for a new brick but I'd just get the firmware from here where you can control the power budget:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1

 

Tell the truth - set bed to 150W and nozzle to 25W (I'm pretty sure those are correct) and then instead of the default 175W power budget set it to say 150W.  That will lower your peak power by 25 watts and should hopefully be low enough not to upset the power brick.

 

By the way, it's common for these bricks to do this.  If you do decide to get a new brick there's two types:

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B
 

The GS version can put out significantly more power than the GST even though they claim the both put out the same amount.  I suspect you have the GST.

[dim_kand 0]

58 minutes ago, gr5 said:

Είναι σχεδόν σίγουρα το δυναμικό τούβλο. Θα μπορούσατε να δοκιμάσετε να απενεργοποιήσετε το κρεβάτι εκτύπωσης και να χρησιμοποιήσετε μπλε ταινία (χρησιμοποιήστε ταινία βαφής καθαρισμένη με ισοπροπυλική αλκοόλη) για να αποδείξετε ότι ξεπερνάτε αυτό που μπορεί να βάλει το τροφοδοτικό.

 

Θα μπορούσατε να δοκιμάσετε να λαδώσετε τις ράβδους, καθώς η κατανάλωση ενέργειας θα μειώσει έως και 10 watt.

 

Μην προσπαθήσετε να μειώσετε τη θερμοκρασία του στρώματος εκτύπωσης καθώς οι χαμηλότερες θερμοκρασίες αντλούν περισσότερο ρεύμα (χαμηλότερη αντίσταση σε χαμηλότερες θερμοκρασίες)

 

Εν πάση περιπτώσει, αν αυτό είναι το πρόβλημα, μπορείτε να ξοδέψετε περίπου 90/90 ευρώ για ένα νέο τούβλο, αλλά απλώς θα έπαιρνα το υλικολογισμικό από εδώ όπου μπορείτε να ελέγξετε τον προϋπολογισμό ισχύος:

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1

 

Πείτε την αλήθεια - ρυθμίστε το κρεβάτι στα 150W και το ακροφύσιο στα 25W (είμαι πολύ σίγουρος ότι είναι σωστά) και στη συνέχεια, αντί για τον προεπιλεγμένο προϋπολογισμό ισχύος 175W, ορίστε τα 150W. Αυτό θα μειώσει την ισχύ αιχμής σας κατά 25 watts και ελπίζουμε ότι θα είναι αρκετά χαμηλό για να μην αναστατώσει το τούβλο ισχύος.

 

Παρεμπιπτόντως, είναι κοινό για αυτά τα τούβλα να το κάνουν αυτό. Εάν αποφασίσετε να αποκτήσετε ένα νέο τούβλο υπάρχουν δύο τύποι:

GST220A24 -R7B GS220A24-R7B

 

Η έκδοση GS μπορεί να αποδώσει σημαντικά μεγαλύτερη ισχύ από το GST, παρόλο που ισχυρίζονται ότι και οι δύο έχουν το ίδιο ποσό. Υποψιάζομαι ότι έχετε το GST.

Hello
I turned off the print bed and seems to work without problem!
Do you think GS220A24-R7B is better choise?
How can I set bed to 150W and nozzle to 25W?
Thank you for you help!!

[gr5 2,265]

You have to install tinkerMarlin to be able to use those power budget features.

[gr5 2,265]

3 hours ago, dim_kand said:

Do you think GS220A24-R7B is better choise?

yes.  The GST has more safety features.  So if you are worried about a fire, get the GST.  But the GS will give you more power.  I'm not sure they still make the GS so you may have trouble finding it.  And these are expensive supplies.  So if you want to save some money just install tinkerMarlin and setup power budget.

[dim_kand 0]

4 minutes ago, gr5 said:

Ναί. Το GST έχει περισσότερα χαρακτηριστικά ασφαλείας. Έτσι, αν ανησυχείτε για πυρκαγιά, λάβετε το GST. Αλλά το GS θα σας δώσει περισσότερη δύναμη. Δεν είμαι σίγουρος ότι εξακολουθούν να κάνουν το GS, οπότε μπορεί να έχετε πρόβλημα να το βρείτε. Και αυτές είναι ακριβές προμήθειες. Έτσι, εάν θέλετε να εξοικονομήσετε χρήματα, απλώς εγκαταστήστε το tinkerMarlin και ρυθμίστε τον προϋπολογισμό ισχύος.

I installed tinkerMarlin and adjusted the power but unfortunately it did not work.

I saw in previous reports with some who had the same problem it is recommended to disconnect the power supply for at least 12 hours.

I will try it but for sure I will also buy a new power supply.

I hope to be this is the only problem.

[gr5 2,265]

What did you set all the values to in the "power budget" settings?

[dim_kand 0]

6 hours ago, gr5 said:

What did you set all the values to in the "power budget" settings?

I have set them at the level you mentioned to me.

i will try again today, because i didn't remember if i had reduced or if i had turned off the temperature of the bed.

[gr5 2,265]

Try going lower then.  150W for bed, 25W for nozzle.  110W for total budget.  If that doesn't work go even lower for total budget.  The default budget is 175W.  So anything lower than 175W will use less power than normal.

 

Also make sure you use the version I linked to (V19.03.1).  Older versions had a bug in the power budget code.

[dim_kand 0]

2 hours ago, gr5 said:

Δοκιμάστε να κατεβείτε χαμηλότερα. 150W για κρεβάτι, 25W για ακροφύσιο. 110W για συνολικό προϋπολογισμό. Εάν αυτό δεν λειτουργήσει πηγαίνετε ακόμη χαμηλότερα για τον συνολικό προϋπολογισμό. Ο προεπιλεγμένος προϋπολογισμός είναι 175W. Έτσι, οτιδήποτε μικρότερο από 175W θα χρησιμοποιεί λιγότερη ισχύ από το κανονικό.

 

Επίσης, βεβαιωθείτε ότι χρησιμοποιείτε την έκδοση με την οποία συνδέθηκα (V19.03.1). Οι παλαιότερες εκδόσεις είχαν ένα σφάλμα στον κωδικό προϋπολογισμού ισχύος.

I lowered the power levels again and it seems to be working fine.
the only thing that worries me is that the led lights flicker during printing (in previous articles I saw that a problem with the power brick has been reported)
I use the version you mentioned to me.
What should be the normal power levels?
I think nevertheless the purchase of a new power supply will be a more complete solution.

 

Thank you for your informations!

[gr5 2,265]

Flickering lights is normal.  Roughly 20 times per second.  Easily seen.  But some lights flicker more than others.  Personally I would measure the voltages with an oscilloscope to see how low the 24V supply goes.

 

What is happening is that the bed is turned on and off 20 times per second for different durations (sometimes on 100% but usually only at 100% when warming up.  Duty cycle can be anywhere between 0% and 100%).

 

When the bed is on, there is more power drain and the voltage can drop a bit.

 

Check the power cable on the back of the printer.  Sometimes it is not plugged in all the way.  This is an alternative explanation to your symptoms.  It should not slip out easily - it snaps into place.

[ClausJ 5]

I had this problem with 2 of my 3 printers located in 3 different countries. One of them I changed the printhead heater and it seemed to do the trick. The other one was difficult. I had to hunt down the problem by exchanging parts between them. That ruled out the power supply, the motherboard, the heaters, the led lights. In the end I sent the machine, now made up of original and exchanged parts, in for repair. The original dealer in Denmark had been blacklisted by Ultimaker so I had to find another. The printer came back with an invoice of 800 euros. And it failed the first print. Fed up with this process that dragged out over 6 months while I travelled between countries with detached parts, and the almost complete lack of help from Ultimaker, I asked the repair person if he would swop my broken Ultimaker 2 extended + for a new Creality CR-10 Max and he agreed. It is now my printer of choice, I have 3 of them and all together they cost a little more than a single of the Ultimakers.

 

The problem with this is that if you have problems you’re on your own. You may be lucky it’s “just” the power supply. If not you may start changing every single part until you find the broken one. In my case I suspect it was more than one, hence impossible to isolate. Consider how much you want to spend fixing your printer. Good luck!

[Umo_Alex 4]

I have the same problem with my UMO+.

 

1) Would TinkerMarlin work on this printer as well?

 

2) The GS brick doesn't seem to be available anywhere anymore.

There is a GSM (medical) version with the same specs. (No idea what the difference is).

Are you familiar with this bick?

 

[dim_kand 0]

Unfortunately i have the same problem until now.

I tried everything.

Printer stops when the build plate heated.

 

[Umo_Alex 4]

In my case the thing will print for about 20-30 minutes before it switches off and on again, with or wirhout heated bed.

 

[Umo_Alex 4]

Guess I'll just dump it in the bin.
Spring cleaning... 😞

[Torgeir 280]

Hi Folks,

 

When I've look into this -I'll just wonder..

You just don't throw an Ultimaker UM2+ into the bin, -because you do not want to invest -say say some 90Euro..

 

Also, -all the sign you've mentioned in here are pointing to a FAULTY power supply!

The power supply "is" the hardest "working" device in your printer and they can and will fail at some age.

In fact about 85% (some say more), of any fault of electronic devices are found in the power supply region...

 

I did a quick search for this power supply and found that the Digi-key have more then 400 each in stock!

 

Have a look here:

 

https://www.findchips.com/search/GST220A24-R7B?&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6-SDBhCMARIsAGbI7UgEDcSYBjYBTVGaFqx369ojFm5Q1-A2NrAWE9-GqvngvXvJgByRmf0aAqGLEALw_wcB

 

In here is a number of suppliers of this power supply.

 

By the way, here is the power supply I'm using on my UM2E+:

Look at Dell AC/DC power supply, output 24 VDC and 12.3 Amp (max).

https://www.allpoweradaptor.com/dell-ac-adapter-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-new-p-3474.html?zenid=sklduagcs13gjjq0fa6oneg335

 

 

Anyway, your choice.

 

Thanks

Torgeir

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by Torgeir
More info.

[Umo_Alex 4]

The MW power supply at findchips is the same as the one of which I've already used up two.

 

I've been searching for that Dell brick Torgeir mentioned (or simmilar) for hours but to no avail.

(btw. that allpoweradaptor.com doesn't deliver and I suspect it to be a Chinese site).

 

So, if anyone knows where to buy the Dell brick that Torgeir has, or one that has the same specs ( output 24 VDC and 12.3 Amp) or more, please let me know!

 

Or if you know what Dell product that adapter is for, that would make the search a lot easier....

 

Grtz.,

Alex.

[Torgeir 280]

Hi @Umo_Alex,

 

Use Google and search with this text: "dell D2950P-01".

 

You should have better luck..

 

Thanks

Regard

Torgeir

Edited May 11, 2021 by Torgeir
Text error corrected.

[Umo_Alex 4]

Ordered this one: https://www.pchub.com/dell-common-item-dell-ac-adapter-20v-above-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-p160274

PCHub seems to be the only genuine online store that sells these (or so time will tell...).

The rest are all B.S. Chinese sites!! 🙄

 

Grtz,

Alex.

[Torgeir 280]

Hi @Umo_Alex,

 

Yes, this is the one I'm using..

By the way, mostly all of this stuff is made in China..

 

 

Torgeir

Edited May 25, 2021 by Torgeir
Added text.

[Umo_Alex 4]

Yeah, but I'd hoped it wouldn't have to be shipped from China, but the US.

Unfortunatily it's still coming from China. (Confirmation email mentions China Post). 😔

 

[Umo_Alex 4]

@Torgeir,

 

Received the Dell adapter and tried connecting it, but there was an audible electric crackle and the LED on the adapter turned off. Assuming the connector on my board was shot I bought a new board, but the same thing happens.

Just wondering if I'm connecting it in the wrong orrientation?

On the UMO+ with the original brick the flat side of the connector should be downward (On the UM2+ upward).

How do you connect yours?

[Torgeir 280]

Hi @Umo_Alex,

 

The flat should be up!

If you connect the main without connecting to the printer, the green light should turn on without any noise.

Only connect it to the printer when the printer switch is off, -and yes there should be a steady green light before switching the printer on. If anything happen you should immediately turn the printer off..

If it makes noise when connected to your printer, -your main board is most probably faulty somehow..

"Normally", this power supply will survive a short, so if it still turns on the green light it might be ok.

However, you'll need to find out what is shorting the power input when switching power on.

 

Torgeir